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Okay...As noted in recent posts, I have been having some problems with my top.
It started with the failure of the rivets I used when I did the gear swap. I think I used the right diameter rivet, but the wrong length...anyway...the first thing that happened was the rivet that held the plastic cover on failed and the cover came off, but the top still operated.... and I didn't notice and ended up running it over with car.... There's a limit switch, with a small metal lever tab, that I believe that activates on the cover....though after I lost the cover, the metal tab that pushes the switch button was still intact and the top operated normally...
Eventually though, the other rivets failed, and the flipper itself came loose, and at this point I lost the lever tab, and now, even though the flipper fully expands and retracts, I get the B1755 code (flipper 2 operation) and the top sequence will not go forward and will onlygo back to closed if the ignition is cycled or the code is otherwise cleared.
So I guess what I'm asking is if anyone has an experience dealing with this switch, or has any spare parts they can sell me to repair mine.
Can you provide a really good close-up pic of the switch itself including the wiring connector? And/Or any info that might be written on the switch body?
On the "good" switch, is there is "hook" on the metal tab or is it completely flat?
And this is part of the "flipper," yes? Left/Right or both?
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Nov 9, 2022 at 10:39 PM.
Can you provide a really good close-up pic of the switch itself including the wiring connector? And/Or any info that might be written on the switch body?
On the "good" switch, is there is "hook" on the metal tab or is it completely flat?
And this is part of the "flipper," yes? Left/Right or both?
The flipper in the first picture is the left one (driver's side)....fully intact with the cover...there is a slight bend in the metal tab in the front of the flipper, bigger bend on the one in the back, as it is not being compressed (flipper is closed).
The second picture is a tthe flipper on the right, the one where I lost the cover and then later lost the metal tab altogether (tab on the back of the right flipper is still intact. I have attached another pic of the switch on the right flipper that is missing the tab.
I believe my top is not opening because this switch is not getting pressed during the opening because the tab is gone.....even without the cover, it was working until the tab fell off. Now it stops just after the flippers come out, and throws the B1755 (right flipper) code
This is going to be one of those proverbial "needle in the haystack" deals. You can not buy just the switch from Infiniti- they rather sell you the whole flipper assembly. As I have stated in other threads, the retractable top for this car was designed in Germany by Karmann which also supplies BMW, Jaguar, Merc, VW and likely every other modern "drop top" car out there. I did a search and found this switch on eBay which may fit. Also, it seems BMW p/n- 61316916426: appears to be identical to what you have/ need (even down to the orange "nub"). There are also a few others on eBay including these. Finally , the "package tray switch" (BMW) looks to be comparable as well: ECSTuning.
DISCLAIMER: I do not know if any of those above are a direct fit or not. You will have to do your own research and due diligence. I am just pointing out that other comparable parts may be available from other brands- just not from Nissan. After all, these are nothing more than simple momentary SPNO switches- they are not rocket science. It seems that these switches are a common problem on BMW Z's (3 & 4) and the 4-Series Cabrios. Just google "BMW roof limit switch" and a ton of fixes pop up. If I recall, aren't there two (2) switches per flipper arm on the G?
Many folks who have had issues with their tops (350Z, 370Z, BMW, Porsche, etc.) have opted to buy generic microswitches and "make them work" rather than spend crazy money on dealer/ OEM prices. I found these on
which should work just fine. With these you would have to gently bend the tabs to the shape you need. You can also try places like Mouser or DigiKey as they have tons of microswitches that might work for you. As long as the correct wiring is maintained there should not be any problem.
You will likely have to "think out of the box" and rig something up in order to get the roof operation to work. Unless you are able to find a junker to scavenge parts or find suitable replacement switches, the only other way would be to replace the entire flipper assembly which, even used, is ridiculously expensive just for a $5 switch.
Not sure how helpful any of this may be... Hopefully it will generate leads/ ideas.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Nov 21, 2022 at 11:01 AM.
This is going to be one of those proverbial "needle in the haystack" deals. You can not buy just the switch from Infiniti- they rather sell you the whole flipper assembly. As I have stated in other threads, the retractable top for this car was designed in Germany by Karmann which also supplies BMW, Jaguar, Merc, VW and likely every other modern "drop top" car out there. Now, I did a search and found this on eBay (BMW p/n: 61316916426) which appears to be identical to what you have/ need (even down to the orange "nub"). There are also a few others on eBay including these. Additionally, the package tray switch (BMW) looks to be comparable as well: ECSTuning.
DISCLAIMER: I do not know if any of those above are a direct fit or not. You will have to do your own research and due diligence. I am just pointing out that other comparable parts may be available from other brands- just not from Nissan. After all, these are nothing more than simple momentary SPNO switches- they are not rocket science. It seems that these switches are a common problem on BMW Z's (3 & 4) and the 4-Series Cabrios. Just google "BMW roof limit switch" and a ton of fixes pop up. If I recall, aren't there two (2) switches per flipper arm on the G?
Many folks who have had issues with their tops (350Z, 370Z, BMW, Porsche, etc.) have opted to buy generic microswitches and "make them work" rather than spend crazy money on dealer/ OEM prices. I found these on Amazon which should work just fine. With these you would have to gently bend the tabs to the shape you need. You can also try places like Mouser or DigiKey as they have tons of microswitches that might work for you. As long as the correct wiring is maintained there should not be any problem.
You will likely have to "think out of the box" and rig something up in order to get the roof operation to work. Unless you are able to find a junker to scavenge parts or find suitable replacement switches, the only other way would be to replace the entire flipper assembly which, even used, is ridiculously expensive just for a $5 switch.
Not sure how helpful any of this may be... Hopefully it will generate leads/ ideas.
This helps ALOT, to know that there are alternatives
And actually.....speaking of "needle in a haystack"...when I got home yesterday i found the missing metal tab on the ground, under my garage door seal.....I put the tab back on, tacked the bottom of it with a small amount of glue and now everything works!!!
But I will certainly look into these switches so that I have one around if it falls off again
.....I put the tab back on, tacked the bottom of it with a small amount of glue and now everything works!!!
