AZg37

iTrader: (17)

if you're worried about sand, buy some filter screens to protect from fine particles, and as long as the car is turned off during the wash, you should be fine!

AZg37

iTrader: (17)

this intake isn't a pain to install without removing the front bumper. I did it in about 2 1/2 to 3 hours and I don't even have a complete tool set and the beer was my only helper

BerkTechnology

BBoy Great job. Thanks for the effort.

Stillen, great job on this one. While not quite 18rwhp, 10rwhp ain't bad either!!

heff

haha beer is always a good companion cept when u get a lil too much of grandpas ol cough medicine....... " I swear i put the filters on?"

shabbo

It's a performance product...and the high-end gains are great! and I definitely agree that unless it's not the sound that excites you, this upgrade is more useful with an ECU flash.

Hawaiian72099

I thought you can't add up all the hp of each individual mod and say that is what you gained? (e.g. say 10hp(intake)+8hp(HFC)+10hp(exhaust) wont' equal to 28hp on the dyno.) I don't know why some people are saying it's only 10 hp from his runs, wouldn't it show more hp on the dyno if it was just the Stillen intake on a bone stock car?

shumby

iTrader: (3)

^^^ yup your right.

NeverBoneStock

iTrader: (25)

You might want to look at bisquitweasel gains after a reflash ... And make a decision.. He posted a dyno and I think I spelled his name correctly.

bboysteele

I am not exactly sure what you are asking in the first question. I think you are asking what the before numbers are and that would be stock intake, Berk HFC, and FI exhaust. The dyno is a DYNOJET which the pic also shows.

Sand could be a problem which would require you to clean the filters more often. As far as an auto car wash, there should not be a problem with that. The only way I can see there being a problem is if you are in the wash reving your engine to 7000RPMs as the sprayer passes the front. Since I don't know if the filters retain water (I doubt they do especially since they are oiled) I don't know if this would be an issue for sure. I am not to worried about it but that being said, I probably will be turning my car off when I am in the touch-less car-wash for now on just to be extra safe.

Denver, Colorado. If you are asking for the shop name then that would be MAC Autosports.

The filters are going to be a bitch to get to. I will need to take out the front grill to get to them or disassemble the plastic piece that is just under the hood opening. Now you said you are not trying to be an *** but the post comes off that way. Hopefully this will answer your questions, if not then well I don't know what to tell you.

I posted the top gains for both intakes since this is what most people and most companies do. All my previous review threads I posted the consistent numbers and not the max. I believe I stated that the sheets I posted were the max numbers. I actually had the wrong dyno at first when I was posting the review so that is why it is stated that way. Here is a dyno of the average or consistent numbers for both or close to it:



There is little to no loss between 5600 and 6300RPMs. Before that there is a big increase in TQ though. The increase is between 5 to 8 lbs of TQ across most of the band up to 5600RPMs. After 6500RPMs there is an increase of about 10 to maybe 12TQ. To me this is big. The increase of HP on the lower end is not as great as you point out but there is an increase no the less and the increase up top is great. I would recommend you stop looking just at just HP. There is a definite increase in power when I drive my car. I did not say it was "throw you back in your seat power" but you definitely feel it. If others say this then that is them. I don't know if you have any mods but if you installed some HFC or test pipes then you have a good idea of how these intakes feel over driving with stock except you don't have that loss of power in the low end that you get when you first mod the car. A ECU tune is definitely going to help. Now as far as our car not responding well to bolt-ons, I don't see that. I posted my best stock dyno and my Stillen dyno in the dyno sticky in the Engine section. 35HP and 17TQ from three bolt ons seem very good to me without an ECU tune. BTW my stock dyno run was done on the same dyno. Hopefully this answers your questions.

These are SAE corrected values. This was also displayed in the dyno sheet. The dyno shop is in Denver so the altitude is a mile high.

Retromoe

iTrader: (4)

check your PMs steele.

bboysteele

I responded to you. Did you not get my reply?

stevenmeister

I'm sorry, what was the purpose of taking the front grill off. was it to increase airflow?

bboysteele

It was to make it easier to install the Stillen intake. The installs were done while the car was on the dyno so the front bumper was taken off before the car was put on the dyno.

Stylin G

Great job bboy, I'm SOLD!

Carlitos_SS

I could be wrong, and my only mod experience is with my old Camaro SS, but I think you have it backwards. I'll use the LS1 V8 in the Camaro as an example:

If you take a bone stock LS1 motor making 300rwhp and put some long tube headers on it, you may get 15 to 20 rwhp. If you take that same stock LS1 but with a supercharger on it making, let's say 450rwhp, then add headers your gains will be significantly more than 15 to 20 rwhp.

Rather than adding up all the gains on a stock motor together, I think it is safer to think of mods as adding a percentage gain to your current setup, i.e. if the headers in the above example made 15 rwhp on a 300 rwhp motor, that is a 5% gain. The same headers on the boosted engine making 450 rwhp would likely add 5% or 22.5 rwhp to the boosted setup. Likewise, if the Stillen intake made a 15rwhp gain on a stock VQ37 motor making 280 rwhp, that represents slightly more than a 5% gain. This same intake on a moddified motor should be able to generate a 5% gain over the moddified setup.

Then again... I could be wrong.

'Los