I am thinking I am experiencing CSC failure, but am a little confused as I’m reading online that it generally gradually goes out over time. Today I was getting ready to install my new RJM clutch pedal and I parked the car in the garage and got ready, left to eat and returned and my clutch has 0 pressure. It basically clicks between fully extended or against the firewall, with no play in the between. I’m confused as to if it’s the csc or not because it just happened literally out of nowhere. The car has been driving 100% fine and I haven’t been driving it hard, just went from fine to needing to be towed out of no where. Fluid was under the car too, attached below. Wondering if anyone has any insight to if it can still be the CSC even though it was instantaneous.

 

My CSC failed on me without warning at 18k miles, way back when it was still under warranty. I got maybe three pushes on a suddenly very weak clutch pedal before it just stayed on the floor useless. You are so lucky that it happened in your garage. I know you don't feel lucky, but imagine this happening in traffic.

 

I replaced my clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, JIT heavy duty CSC (has worked great for me. Some prefer JWT CSC), rear main seal in February and I was driving one night recently then parked it and was driving fine. Next morning I had MAYBE 1-1.5 inch of pressure and thought it was my new CSC but no fluid was on the ground…I remembered that I wanted to save myself a few bucks and do the master cylinder when it goes out lol that next morning it decided it was old and had enough. I replaced the master cylinder and I’m up and running with no issues

I should also add that I installed Z1’s mild street performance clutch so I knew I was on borrowed time. I recommend that clutch with a single mass iron flywheel. It will have minimal chatter and will feel slightly stiffer than stock and have just enough bite to it to have fun when you want to and with a single mass you can resurface your flywheel. My old flywheel was the oem dual mass flywheel and upon a lot of research, when they start to go, the dual mass flywheel will have vibrations which my g had and I was chasing it since I got the car. I almost cried the first time I drove my car after I had the clutch put in and there was no vibration

I heard when the CSC goes there will be fluid on the ground and no pressure. My advice is to change your whole clutch system including the master cylinder. The only thing I haven’t done yet is the lines. I will say the hardest part is the break in period on a new clutch lol let us know what you decide to do

 

Alright so I’ve contacted a shop and at a slight dilemma. ZSpeed is out of stock of the CSC delete kits and I need the car back so my options are the new Z1 v2 kit or the CZP HRK CSC delete kit off enjuku racing. Does anybody know anything about either of them and how they last? The other option is just going with the oem one but I’d prefer to avoid it.

We’re assuming it is the csc that went and was quoted $1750 for labor on csc delete fix, or $2150 if they do rear main seal, clutch kit, flywheel and all of that. I am assuming this is a pretty normal price for the fix, but going to contact other shops. They recommended to go with the full replacement of everything however my car only has 38k miles, so does all of that seem necessary yet? The parts would also be another like $700. The car is new to me though so I am not sure how the previous owners have driven it, was a corporate fleet vehicle for a while so prob pretty safe. Do you guys think I should replace everything while the trans is down?

 

Honestly, being a fleet car it’s not somebody’s personal car and it’s a manual g lol I’m not saying you’d drive it hard but I’m sure some people got on it but at the same time this isn’t an uncommon failure even with low mileage.

With the relocation kit, I’ve heard good and bad. IMO (this is what I did and have no issues…wait for story) my OEM dual mass flywheel was going out and causing vibrations since first day of ownership. Had to replace my clutch 6 months later. I went with Z1 mild street performance clutch/pressure plate, iron single mass flywheel, JIT heavy duty CSC (OEM internal placement), rear main (you’re there so just do it), pilot bushing and an OE speed trans mount from rock auto. I DIDN’T replace my master cylinder because I was trying to save myself some money at the time because my old shop I used to work at was charging labor @ $1,000. After 6 months on the new clutch, one morning my pedal had almost no pressure.

Do the master cylinder while replacing clutch components. I have no issues with the internal slave placement. Clutch feels stiffer than stock but nothing crazy. Very steerable while fun at the same time.

Overall the whole clutch job after everything was between $2,000-$2,300 for parts and labor including fluids I bought for when replacing the clutch. I went with redline and am happy