I've been looking at transmission upgrades since I'm really not happy with the laggy throttle response and transmission from the factory. Its been more noticeable since I've gotten tuned. Seems there's a few different options for this. Valve body upgrade from ipt which seems like the most budget friendly, vr30 swap, haven't seen much info for an awd car though and something I ran across earlier but i don't know if its possible or not. Swapping a re7r01b from the qx56/m56. I'm full bolt on right now, might go for a stillen supercharger in the future but nothing too crazy.

 

Does anyone know if the re7r01b swap is possible?

 

What can you spend?

Level 10's Bulletproof Transmission would be my personal choice if money was not an object: https://www.levelten.com/product_p/infin-g1800-re7.htm

IPT I believe is another company that I see discussed here on the community: https://www.importperformancetrans.c..._detail&p=5437

Boost talks about swaps here on his channel: This company appears to sell a kit for the swap: https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/te...ur-zg-platform

 

I was originally looking at the level 10 valve body but there were a lot of reviews that said they screwed up a lot of people's transmissions. Ipt was what i had been looking at recently. That vr30 swap kit looks good, I'm not much for fab work so that makes the vr30 more appealing. Like i said i don't plan on pushing any crazy power but I'd like something i know will hold 400 or 500 at the wheels if i ever decided to go forced induction.

 

I am AWD Coupe with IPT VB / TC and VR30 Trans swap.
There is no "swap kit", it is direct bolt on, for awd all you need is a 3/4" driveshaft spacer, or get a shop to lengthen yours, or get a custom driveshaft (my choice) rest of swap is direct bolt on, easiest swap you'll ever do.
While you are at it, swap out the flexplate as well.

 

Here's one for sale on the Q50 community with only 4K miles (AWD): https://www.infinitiq50.org/threads/...-miles.142036/

 

Would the sedan need different driveshaft adjustments? I've heard there's some holes i need to drill for the crank sensor, and do i need the tcm from the vr30 transmission?

 

you will need to drill out a half circle on the bellhousing of the VR30 trans for clearance on the crank position sensor.

you swap your current TCM into the new VR30 transmission.

I have coupe not sedan, but sedan should be the same, the overall length of the VR30 trans w/ the transfer case is approx 3/4” shorter resulting in the need for a 3/4” longer driveshaft. The front driveshaft does not need to be modified or changed, only rear.

Use the VR30 crossbrace and trans mount and it directly bolts to chassis.

 

Sounds pretty straightforward. I'd assume i use the vr30 transfer case as well?

 

correct, full VR30 trans from bell housing to tail housing and transfer case.

 

One more thing I'm unsure on. Can i fill the transmission fluid while its off the car? I did the valve body on my charger which had a fill tube leading up to the engine bay so refilling was as simple as estimating how much to put in based on what it held. I heard the g37 transmission needs some kind of pump to force the fluid into the transmission due to the drain hole and fill hole both being on the bottom of the transmission.

 

you can partially fill it, but not 100%. The transmission fill/leveling procedure is very easy and simple though.

You can also install a trans dipstick/fill tube if you like. Search the forum for diy for that.

 

I found that thread about the 2008 g37 dipstick bolting on to the 7at and went on ebay and found the only used one for $40. I guess i got lucky considering that part was apparently discontinued years ago.

 

Just "discontinued" here in the USA. More than likely those parts are still available, new, from Japan.

 

Here's one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/20430698995...caAjSIEALw_wcB

What's the purpose of the black tube connected to the dipstick?

Also, is this the right DIY Dipstick add thread?
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...our-7at-6.html

Here are the 2008 5AT PNs from that thread:

31080 (Tube)
31083A (Bolts x 2)
31084 (Washer)
31086 (Dipstick)

Getting that bolt out appears to be the most difficult part as it was not designed to be removed correct?

Also, once installed, is the new dipstick fairly accurate?