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So need some help I bought a 2010 Infiniti G37 coupe sport and my passenger cv axle rear went out so I’ve been trying to replace it and all the parts I’ve got the part that goes to the diff have holes but no threads and the one that came from my car had threads has anybody had this problem or can help me ?
So need some help I bought a 2010 Infiniti G37 coupe sport and my passenger cv axle rear went out so I’ve been trying to replace it and all the parts I’ve got the part that goes to the diff have holes but no threads and the one that came from my car had threads has anybody had this problem or can help me ?
So need some help I bought a 2010 Infiniti G37 coupe sport and my passenger cv axle rear went out so I’ve been trying to replace it and all the parts I’ve got the part that goes to the diff have holes but the one that came from my car had threads had anybody had this problem or can help me ?
Just looked at a few rear axle pictures on Ebay for 09 - 13 G's and it seems that the replacement axle for the rear needs threaded holes. Apparently, you have the wrong part. Hopefully you can return it and get the correct one.
So need some help I bought a 2010 Infiniti G37 coupe sport and my passenger cv axle rear went out so I’ve been trying to replace it and all the parts I’ve got the part that goes to the diff have holes but no threads and the one that came from my car had threads has anybody had this problem or can help me ?
Are you sure? I have the same year model and have no threads on mine. The bolt simply slides through and treads to the diff
Are you sure? I have the same year model and have no threads on mine. The bolt simply slides through and treads to the diff
yea because the one I took off my car has threads on it but all the new parts don’t and if the case I don’t see why the dealership can’t fix it or do that
Some of the diff flanges ("axle stubs") are different in that some are threaded and others are not. It all depends on year, differential type (LSD, non-LSD) and gearbox (AT/MT).
You say your car is "sport" but if your differential flanges are not threaded then likely you have a base, non-LSD unit.
Either way, you have the wrong axle shaft. Return it, and order a replacement based on your cars VIN- not what the fancy badges say.
Z1 has a good description of the differences between the axle stubs, with pics, on their website.
Some of the diff flanges ("axle stubs") are different in that some are threaded and others are not. It all depends on year, differential type (LSD, non-LSD) and gearbox (AT/MT).
You say your car is "sport" but if your differential flanges are not threaded then likely you have a base, non-LSD unit.
Either way, you have the wrong axle shaft. Return it, and order a replacement based on your cars VIN- not what the fancy badges say.
Z1 has a good description of the differences between the axle stubs, with pics, on their website.
my axle had threads and the one I took had threads on it too but all the ones they are ordering for my car don’t have threads
With all this confusion and hassle, it would be easier to just have your old driveshaft rebuilt. Any reputable transmission shop can clean/ repack the CV joints (or replace if the races/ball bearings are damaged) and put new boots on in a few hours, if that.
yea because the one I took off my car has threads on it but all the new parts don’t and if the case I don’t see why the dealership can’t fix it or do that
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Your right just took a look at mine. I have both left and right laying around but dont know which one is which as one is a bit longer.
PM me if your intrested.
With all this confusion and hassle, it would be easier to just have your old driveshaft rebuilt. Any reputable transmission shop can clean/ repack the CV joints (or replace if the races/ball bearings are damaged) and put new boots on in a few hours, if that.
Just my 10¢. Good luck with repair.
do you know if they can rebuild the spline parts too the dealer damaged it taking it out
Are you taking about the splines on the outboard CV joint?
Any good shop/ mechanic can pop off the old CV joint, pack a new one with grease and install it onto the shaft with a new rubber boot. I've done it countless times over the years.
Like you, most just replace the half shaft and call it day but repairing the old one is a possibility. Seems Birdie has what you need...
If the dealer damaged the half shaft, why aren't they making it right?
Are you taking about the splines on the outboard CV joint?
Any good shop/ mechanic can pop off the old CV joint, pack a new one with grease and install it onto the shaft with a new rubber boot. I've done it countless times over the years.
Like you, most just replace the half shaft and call it day but repairing the old one is a possibility. Seems Birdie has what you need...
If the dealer damaged the half shaft, why aren't they making it right?
yes the splines that go to the hub and they said that it’s to damaged and they don’t fix them I’m not sure if it’s just this dealership or what but it’s the closet ones for a good min and getting it towed to the next closest one would cost me a fortune
To me,"you break it, you fix it" is the law of the land. If the dealership damaged the part they were working on, then it is up to them to fix it. They do not want to replace the CV joint because it will be expensive for them to "write off." New OEM CV joints are around $550-600 with a whole half shaft costing more (keyword: OEM).
I would raise hell with them, but then I am not the friendliest person on the planet- far from it. You will have to handle your business the way you see fit.
The options are there: repair or replace. Ensure that the splines on the hub assembly are not damaged either.
I wish I knew what else to suggest. Good luck to you.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; May 19, 2022 at 04:33 PM.
