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2010 G37s Have Power, No Crank, No Click, No ODB2, ABS U1000
Edit: Sorry about the title, it should be limited ODB2
This adventure started with a head unit replacement. Owner got the wrong radio so ended up just putting everything back together. At that point the car wouldn't respond when the start button was pressed, just displayed Lock.
After searching, I found out that this was a Steering Lock Issue so I replaced the steering lock module, was able to power on the car and removed the steering lock fuse.
At this point the car turns on but doesn't crank. When I push the ignition button I get lights on the instrument cluster, solid red security symbol and the engine cooling fans turn on. Nothing else happens. There is no clicking like some people have suggested.
I am also not able to get a full connection to ODB2, I can scan ABS and get U1000, nothing else.
I saw a video on youtube of someone having the exact same problem and they said they replaced the IPDM, so I replaced that also. Still the same problem.
Did you/ installer/ whomever, use the same AC Amplifier (white, plastic, rectangular box mounted on the headunit) that came with the car? Or was that mixed up as well? Did they verify that the connectors were reinstalled in their correct location? Specifically, there are two (2) connectors behind that center stack that can easily get crossed. Look for two (2) connectors that are wrapped in yellow tape. Make sure these two are plugged into the aforementioned AC Amp.
Did you/ installer/ whomever, use the same AC Amplifier (white, plastic, rectangular box mounted on the headunit) that came with the car? Or was that mixed up as well? Did they verify that the connectors were reinstalled in their correct location? Specifically, there are two (2) connectors behind that center stack that can easily get crossed. Look for two (2) connectors that are wrapped in yellow tape. Make sure these two are plugged into the aforementioned AC Amp.
Were all fuses checked?
Are you talking about these two?
I checked most fuses that would be pertinent to the car at least cranking.
If all you replaced was the ESCL (Steering Lock) then no programming is needed. Being that the engine started indicates that IVIS (immobilizer) was not triggered. If the car doors lock/unlock with the fob, then everything is good to go.
No thanks needed. Just "pay it forward." The blessing is that, in this case, it was a easy fix.
If all you replaced was the ESCL (Steering Lock) then no programming is needed. Being that the engine started indicates that IVIS (immobilizer) was not triggered. If the car doors lock/unlock with the fob, then everything is good to go.
No thanks needed. Just "pay it forward." The blessing is that, in this case, it was a easy fix.
I also replaced the IPDM. When I plug in the new ESCL, the yellow key shows up indicating it doesn't recognize the keys, car won't do anything. When I plug in the old ESCL, car starts right up.
Interesting. There is nothing anywhere that indicates programming of the ESCL. You are talking about the module underneath the dash/ steering column and not the key slot?
Either way, I would strongly suggest that you plug the "old" ESCL back in. Start the engine, and with the engine running either pull the steering lock fuse or cut the brown wire at the lock itself. This car is a 2010 and falls into the range of potential ESCL failures which leaves the car dead as a door nail. Disabling the module- with the engine running- ensures that this common AND expensive issue does not occur.
Interesting. There is nothing anywhere that indicates programming of the ESCL. You are talking about the module underneath the dash/ steering column and not the key slot?
Either way, I would strongly suggest that you plug the "old" ESCL back in. Start the engine, and with the engine running either pull the steering lock fuse or cut the brown wire at the lock itself. This car is a 2010 and falls into the range of potential ESCL failures which leaves the car dead as a door nail. Disabling the module- with the engine running- ensures that this common AND expensive issue does not occur.
Yes, I am talking about the metal box attached to the steering column. I put the new one in and it's attached to the vehicle, I'm guessing in the "locked" mode. The only way that becomes unlocked from what I understand is to have the appropriate key (however the car doesn't recognize the keys once I plug in the new ESCL). In order to reprogram the keys, my instructions indicate "steering: not in fully locked", well I can't do that if the box is locked and the car doesn't recognize the keys, I don't really understand how it would be possible to program new keys under these conditions.
I indeed pulled the fuse while the engine was running, but the new ESCL is in locked mode and the car won't recognize the key to start the car to put it in unlocked mode. It's a paradox right now.
New ESCL- did you put fuse back in? See if it "unlocks?" Why not just remove it completely?
If the car is running normally with the old ESCL, and the fuse has been pulled thereby keeping it "unlocked," I'd leave well enough alone. Unless I'm missing something...(?).
New ESCL- did you put fuse back in? See if it "unlocks?" Why not just remove it completely?
If the car is running normally with the old ESCL, and the fuse has been pulled thereby keeping it "unlocked," I'd leave well enough alone. Unless I'm missing something...(?).
If I put the fuse in with the new ESCL, nothing happens, just shows that the key is not recognized.
The old ESCL is not installed and in this model I have to tear down the whole dash and drop the steering column to remove it. Which I don't really want to do again. haha
I may just try reprogramming the keys. The few videos I've seen of the reprogramming of the car don't mention anything about unlocked steering wheel, it doesn't even really make sense, because a key is required to unlock the steering.
Personally, I'd just plug the old ESCL back in and tuck it up under the dash somewhere. It does not have to be bolted to the column. Might be considered "tacky" but it's effective.
Programming keys can be hit or miss. Just remember you need to have ALL keys present before starting the procedure.
Personally, I'd just plug the old ESCL back in and tuck it up under the dash somewhere. It does not have to be bolted to the column. Might be considered "tacky" but it's effective.
Programming keys can be hit or miss. Just remember you need to have ALL keys present before starting the procedure.
Good luck and please update on the final outcome.
Used a Launch X431 Pro 3s to program the keys, just ignored the Steering Lock Full text and followed all the prompts. Everything worked great. Car starts and everything. Appreciate your help, sincerely!
I did not replace anything at all on the vehicle. It was driving one day. Then the next it would just click once sounds like the starter solenoid and that’s it. Not clicking like a dead battery or cranking of any kind
04-28-2022, 03:04 PM
