I'm confused. If you're leaving the system open then you need to drill the PCV valve and eliminate all the vacuum lines going to the intake manifold.

Posting pictures of how your setup looks is the easiest way to get this accomplished. Your doodles after our discussion don't match. I was under the impression you were going for a closed system with the CANS in between the PCV system however this is not the case now.

For technical purposes the setup you are installing is an OPEN setup. It becomes an OPEN setup the minute you install a filter or leave one/two of the hoses venting to atmosphere.

If you leave the PCV valves you cant put filters on your cans
If you drill the PCV valves then you can put filters but have to remove the vacuum lines or else it will cause a vacuum leak

 

https://i.imgur.com/T2fu3GK.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/jqLcdSP.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/tlwMWm1.jpeg

 

Based on the pictures posted you created an OPEN setup.
At the moment for it to work as a catching can you need to gut out the PCV valve.

 

will do, gonna buy aftermarket ones

 

is it going to matter which side goes "in" and which side goes "out"? on the catch can check photo

 

Yes it will, usually the IN goes in the chamber and the Out is past the brass filter.

 

@Bull, so is it more efficient at reducing oil consumption to put the catch cans on the vacuum side or the breather side? As you mentioned, the vac side is a VERY small port and I don't see it ingesting more than mist especially with the hose length. And hey, free top cylinder lube.

 

better efficiency on the vacuum side since this side is almost under vacuum always, The breather acts as a bypass valve/breather.
With how the breathers are on the VHR and how small this orifice is I wouldnt waste my time and bay look to add two more cans.

 

does anyone sell premade valves like this?

 

They sell straight fittings for AN hose conversions. If you're planning on keeping the stock hoses/sizes you can ad a 90 deg cap on top of your oem PCV valve.

Stock hose size will require you to purchase extra PCV valves and gut them to obtain full flow however a full flowing PCV will require you to remove it from vacuum.

 

i see, i'm sticking with the open setup, so all i'm waiting for is to get an open pcv valve. besides gutting it i just wanted to see if there was any premade ones

 

@BULL i tried contacting admintuning about the whole situation but he never responds to emails in a timely manner, so ima ask you.

Im running into rough idle which i suspect is from a vacuum leak, also im worried about not passing inspection n stuff like that so i want to try going closed setup, besides i heard this was better because it will catch more blowby, so we are going to run off a vacuum now.
I did end up collecting a little puddle of blowby, I use royal purple and change it often so i didnt expect much but i surprisingly without gutting out the pcv got quite a bit.

That being said, a closed setup is still a possibility, but i run into concerns.

This is a VQ35 but its similar to the 37 so bare with me


i was reading back on the thread and basically this is what you said.
my concern is crankcase pressure buildup.
by default, installing these admin intakes you had to cap off the vacuum side of the PCV on the plenum, and the rest was basically up to you (go figure)
What if you used the vacuum like stock so instead of it being capped off you run the vacuum from the lower side of the manifold to the plenum through your sealed can, will this cause a problem at all with the way the car drives / the tune / the intakes. (and then also putting the breather filters I own on the pipes where it would connect past the maf, because we know the AT intakes dont have a port for it?)
My main questions are:
Will this cause crankcase pressure?
Will this affect anything on the car?
Is this safe?
Will my car explode?
Is this a good idea?
Is this correct?

Like I said moncef isnt responding so I need some help elsewhere where there are also knowledgeable people.

Thanks

 

Hey Bread, you might want to grab a picture of your setup and post it since it will give me a better idea of what you're saying. Based on the picture it looks like you created a vacuum leak by leaving the breathers open and the PCV connected to vacuum. Feel free to copy the pictures I posted and edit them to reflect your ideas. Please know that a closed system needs to see vacuum and if you're going after the closed system you'll need to drill the intakes. The closed system ALWAYS ends up pulling more pressure from the crankcase in form of vacuum than what the engine can produce, this is why the breather is needed to vent some of this extra vacuum and you dont end up killing seals by too much vacuum. This vent needs to be read by the MAF which is why the vent needs to be after the MAF. If you want to avoid drilling the Intakes you can drill the throttles or find a way to attach a breather to the clamps of the throttle/intake, this would be unorthodox but it will work.

Many folks end up in your same situation which is why they end up frustrated with AT because they want to avoid drilling at all costs. You can't have one without the other, I've said it before, a simple barb fitting with a cap would have solved the issues giving the customer the option of running open or closed without much effort if they chose to.


This picture shows an OPEN SYSTEM. Closed breather vents and fully gutted PCVs with tubes and filters to vent PRESSURE

This is a FULLY CLOSED SYSTEM with inline catch cans where they matter the most. By doing this the crankcase is now under vacuum at idle, cruising, decel.

 

so basically im SOL. Idk how id physically run those tubes into the intakes without drilling. the only thing i can think is cutting the couplers and running it there and making sure theres no leaks.

i couldnt just attach breathers to the parts after the maf? would it not work correctly?

 

Which ports are you referring to?