Yes, that video is exactly what you need and is what many of us have followed for testing oil pressure. If anything it's good peace of mind!

'12 and up motors were supposed to get updated metal-framed gallery gaskets instead of the paper gaskets, however it does depend on what year your motor was actually produced in. And there have been members that had later model year motors with gasket failure, but that was due to poor maintenance by the previous owner as the motors looked sludged up inside. Hopefully that doesn't wind up being your issue, but those codes definitely cause some concern. The fact that it is jumping into bank 1 can add a bit of credence to a low oil pressure issue. If pressure is low, neither bank can operate the VVEL system properly.

 

Sounds good. I'll take care of it on Saturday. HF has the gauge in stock. If oil pressure is normal, i'll check cat temp, and swap coil packs around. It could even be the oil pressure switch telling everything else there is an issue when there isn't.

 

Well..sure don't think I have a bad gallery seal. Oil pressure, if anything, is high. On cold startup, it spiked to 90-100 psi and the as it warmed up, it eventually settled down to 26psi...at about 700rpm idle.
At 2000 rpm I got about 70 psi.

At this point, I'm wondering if the oil filter is causing some kind of backup or if the oil pressure switch is bad. The car ran perfectly without it attached.
since it is up on jacks...I will do an oil change and leave the switch not hooked up and see what happens.

Here are my readings. Excuse the handwriting..while cold and wearing gloves.

 

100+ psi at a cold start is normal. (No wonder out galley gaskets fail!)

The oil pressure switch has no communication with the ECU. Its only function is turn turn on the "low oil pressure" light on the instrument panel.
Mine has been disconnected since I installed my oil pressure sensor at the start of the year with no change in how the car runs.

Just to clarify... at hot idle of about 650 RPM with the oil at 174 (79C) your oil pressure was 36 psi?
That is rather high... mine is around 14-19 PSI at 80C / 176F

 

At hot idle..it did get down to 26. But no lower. Seems to hover at 26-30psi.
Cat temps are identical. I took a manual reading right behind the cat at one point. 220F on both sides. You can't have a blockage and identical temps behind the cat. I wouldn't think.

 

Think I should hook the oil switch back up? I'm tempted to leave it on..but unconnected.

If not the low oil pressure switch..what puts the car in limp mode? What throws the p0524?

 

Went for a short but spirited jaunt. Low pressure sensor disconnected. One of the benes of living on a 55mph country road. Seemed like it drove pretty good. No issues or warning lights.
No codes. Only the lingering low oil pressure code.

For all I know, this is what the data on this car has looked like for a long time.
I think I will swap coil pack sides tomorrow to further trouble shoot.
I cleared the codes before the drive then pulled them before i shut the car off..

 

When the engine is running, the ECU calculates the desired (aka "Target") intake cam position. It uses the solenoid to control the oil flow and change the cam timing.
Then it uses the cam position sensors to determine the actual position.

When the ECU detects a large gap between the target and actual, it throws a P0524.

 

Got it. Thanks for the clarity.
The weather has sucked and my garage is full of toys...so no coil swaps yesterday. Im tempted to drive it around today to see what it does.

 

You are welcome.

In re-reading the post, I noticed something...
Can you measure the oil pressure with the old/failed solenoid installed?
I am suspecting the high oil pressure may be related to the new solenoid.

Here is why:
• With the failed solenoid the VVT bank 2 solenoid was -38° or under-advanced.
• With the new solenoid, it is now +21°, or over advanced.

If the oil pressure is back in spec with the failed solenoid, then I suspect there is a oil passage restriction inside the new solenoid.

 

What brand solenoid did you use for your replacement? Non oem sensors and solenoids have been known to cause issues, and it seems like the oil pressure codes and bank 1 issues didn't pop up until you changed that solenoid. I'd try swapping in a known good oem solenoid and see what that does. Or at the very least put the old solenoid back in and see if bank 1 clears up and the problem returns only to bank 2.

 

Thanks for the ideas guys. I am doing some tree removal this sat and rented a lift. 1st time for everything! Hahaha
I absolutely noticed 2 differences in the stock valve vs the OEM.
1 - the stock valve had better quality screens on it. The after market were plastic snap ons. I will take pics when I pull it back out. I will take these off and see what happens.
2 - I noticed the oem has a distinct notch about .2" deep around the end of the valve. It was weird to me they were not the same.

I wonder if I take some pics and show a difference I can get my money back or a credit towards and oem. If they will not..I will just machine the same notch/relief in the end. Of course..I don't know that to be the issue.

It is bull**** to sell something as oem if it is different.

I will work on this Sunday.

 

The fact that the two solenoids are different in several aspects stands out to me that it will cause issues whether you machine it or not. The internals could be different. I'd stick OEM solenoids in it so you aren't spending time chasing your tail on that.

 

Makes sense. Is this regarded as the OEM one?

Edit - BUY THIS ONE...IT WORKED!!

 

Ordered the above Hitachi. Rock Auto took the defective one i ordered and gave me a credit...which was great. The credit just went through, which is why I was waiting on ordering the Hitachi. It says it will get here Monday after Thanksgiving, but i'm thinking it will get here sooner.
Happy Thanksgiving. :-)