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I’ve read that 2012 + engines have been revised and fixed this galley gasket issue? If so, is this guaranteed fix, not to fail like the older years? I’m looking at a 2016 370z engine, if this has really been fixed then I’m better off buying one of those engines that have been revised
youll be good with the 16.
however 2012 isnt guarenteed. Some 12s have reported with the issue. So could be certain build dates in 2012 and nissan wont tell. 2013+ is whatd id get.
youll be good with the 16.
however 2012 isnt guarenteed. Some 12s have reported with the issue. So could be certain build dates in 2012 and nissan wont tell. 2013+ is whatd id get.
It has 16k miles, going for $2,500. I wanted to be confident, thinking if I bought this ‘semi-new’ engine I would never have that problem again. But upon further investigation, the guys at 370z forum have stated issues still keep ocurring even with the revised ‘metal’ gasket. They say the bolts will back out and cause leaks. Another member from here has also said something about the two different metals , aluminum timing cover and the steel oil gallery covers are the main culprit since they expand different from each other causing the paper gasket to expose and eventually blowing out. He speculates if this could happen even with the metal gasket, but rather that blowing out, it just starts leaking instead.
So I have two options:
Buy a low mileage engine doesn’t matter what year it is since I’ll be opening it up either way to replace the gasket/bolts + torque them down with some good loctite and pray to God I have ZERO problems concerning that area. Looking at a couple grand just in labor itself.
Or I can just say good bye to it once the new engine is in and forget about it.
Hey guys, I was just wondering in everyone's experience, is the galley gasket issue inevitable? Has anyone reach 150k+ miles without galley gasket issues? I realize it is an issue that everyone should look out for, I am just trying to see if there a percentage of people who have not had this issue.
Just happened to my 08, with 107k miles.. gasket blew out, and lost oil pressure. See for yourselves
Sorry, but I haven't had one of these engines apart. Just wondering if your gasket chunk made it all the way to the oil pan which is what I think is shown in the photo. Or is this the inside of the timing cover? Mine has 103K miles and I'm debating having the dealership tear into it just to be safe. Can't afford a shelled VQ engine.
Sorry, but I haven't had one of these engines apart. Just wondering if your gasket chunk made it all the way to the oil pan which is what I think is shown in the photo. Or is this the inside of the timing cover? Mine has 103K miles and I'm debating having the dealership tear into it just to be safe. Can't afford a shelled VQ engine.
are their symptoms to this problem or just bam dead engine?
I troll so many FB groups and haven't come across this problem. how much of an epidemic is it really? the only reason i heard about it is because someone was asking on one of my YT videoes.
are their symptoms to this problem or just bam dead engine?
I troll so many FB groups and haven't come across this problem. how much of an epidemic is it really? the only reason i heard about it is because someone was asking on one of my YT videoes.
Its definitely common. The only symptoms are low oil pressure.
Add a guage like I did and you'll be able to monitor. Once I start seeing oil p below 15 I'll start preparing.
Its definitely common. The only symptoms are low oil pressure.
Add a guage like I did and you'll be able to monitor. Once I start seeing oil p below 15 I'll start preparing.
Good idea!
I have done the same on my 2011 and replaced the stock oil pressure switch, and left the wire disconnected.
The stock location taps into the oil pressure of the engine oil AFTER the oil filter.
When you measure oil pressure with a sandwich plate, it will read higher, as it reads the pressure BEFORE oil filter, which takes a 3-5+ PSI depending on oil temp and RPM.
It is still better than no gauge, but I suspect your readings are 3-5+ PSI higher than actual pressures.
If you are wondering if it is safe to remove and disconnect the oil pressure switch... it is.
The oil pressure switch is connected to the IPDM/ER and its only function is to turn on a dash idiot light when oil pressure is < 5 psi.
If you have oil pressure issues, you will have a check engine light for IVT (intake valve timing) codes as there isn't enough oil pressure to position the intake came in the required position.
I would advise you or anyone else to never ever ever touch that switch or attempt to remove. Its brittle and will.snap no matter how careful you are. Sure my sandwich adapter reads a little higher but that's ok. It's better than having to tear down the engine to replace the upper oil pan.
Cheers,
edit i decided to.take a risk and remove the oem switch and install the oil.. P sending unit there as my oil cooler kits does not have a port for the sending unit.
I would advise you or anyone else to never ever ever touch that switch or attempt to remove. Its brittle and will.snap no matter how careful you are. Sure my sandwich adapter reads a little higher but that's ok. It's better than having to tear down the engine to replace the upper oil pan.
Cheers
I understand...
I think many people don't understand that it is a tapered fitting and how little it is tightened... finger tight then 1.5 - 2 turns in and check for leaks. Spec is only 11 foot-lbs.
I've had mine on and off probably 4 times in the last 5 years with out issue.
Is there any sign of oil leaking under the car when its parked. Like stains on the driveway? Or is this only noticable putting in an oil pressure gauge?
02-23-2019, 09:48 PM
