Coolant leak
#1
Coolant leak
Hello everyone. So my girlfriend was driving last night (2011 g37 sedan) and all of a sudden the car went up in steams, the car was shut off right away and then we turned it back on and drove it like 300 feet to a 7-11 and got some water to put in to make it home(i live a couple blocks away), took a look this morning and found a hose that was broken. The hose is behind the engine passenger side. After some research, I figured this was the heater core hose? just wondering if the car is ok or if its already damaged?
Would part #92410 be the correct part?
Would part #92410 be the correct part?
#3
Thanks for the reply. Also another question if anyone knows. My car is under the lifetime warranty. I don't even know if they mentioned cover this part in the warranty. Seems like a simple job that I can do, but should I take it to get repaired and maybe get reimbursed? Idk just afraid of voiding the warranty so soon.
#4
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
You'd need to check your warranty terms and conditions. Some warranties cover these items, other don't.
Just checked the infiniti elite care, they cover the hoses but not belts.
Also, considering there's a broken hose, adding water to the radiator doesn't help matters. The car really should not be driven until this is repaired.
Just checked the infiniti elite care, they cover the hoses but not belts.
Also, considering there's a broken hose, adding water to the radiator doesn't help matters. The car really should not be driven until this is repaired.
#5
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
The part that's broken is 92417 in your diagram. It's a coupler that connects two heater hoses together. The hoses are fine, you just need to replace the coupler.
The stock coupler is junk, it's made of plastic and it will start cracking over time. Get a aluminum coupler at your local auto parts store.
The stock coupler is junk, it's made of plastic and it will start cracking over time. Get a aluminum coupler at your local auto parts store.
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#6
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Plus one on what Antirice just mentioned it looks more like the coupler went rather than the hose itself....such a POS design the replacement part is about 3 dollers from the dealer....cheap brittle plastic...
not sure if your diagram is from the correct year though, as they did away with the coupler on one side on newer models (as you can see in your diagram theres only a coupler on the driver side) and if your broken piece is on the passenger side you should be looking at a parts diagram with two hoses connected by a coupler on the passenger side as well...the part number is slightly different as the coupler on one side has a bleeder valve but either will probably work...
Get new spring clamps too as they lose tension over time and may be why the coupler gave way to begin with (92521C onthe diagram [ending with A/B/C/D they are all the same] )
not sure if your diagram is from the correct year though, as they did away with the coupler on one side on newer models (as you can see in your diagram theres only a coupler on the driver side) and if your broken piece is on the passenger side you should be looking at a parts diagram with two hoses connected by a coupler on the passenger side as well...the part number is slightly different as the coupler on one side has a bleeder valve but either will probably work...
Get new spring clamps too as they lose tension over time and may be why the coupler gave way to begin with (92521C onthe diagram [ending with A/B/C/D they are all the same] )
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jtmack (10-30-2018)
#7
Ok, thanks for the help. Gonna get a replacement from o'reilly or something. When adding coolant, would I just add it, have the cap open and let the car run and add accordingly?
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#8
Registered Member
Nissans can be real finicky when it comes to the cooling system. You'll want to make sure you let it run for a while until the cooling fans kick on with the radiator cap off to ensure you bleed all the air out of the system.
they sell coolant bleeding funnels to help with this process. I prefer using a purge & fill tool but that is more costly and requires having access to shop air.
they sell coolant bleeding funnels to help with this process. I prefer using a purge & fill tool but that is more costly and requires having access to shop air.
The following 2 users liked this post by qmantran:
jtmack (11-01-2018),
krazyfiend (11-24-2019)
#9
Nissans can be real finicky when it comes to the cooling system. You'll want to make sure you let it run for a while until the cooling fans kick on with the radiator cap off to ensure you bleed all the air out of the system.
they sell coolant bleeding funnels to help with this process. I prefer using a purge & fill tool but that is more costly and requires having access to shop air.
they sell coolant bleeding funnels to help with this process. I prefer using a purge & fill tool but that is more costly and requires having access to shop air.
#10
im pretty sure ur car might not have any coolant left after that but regardless open the valve at the bottom of the radiator and let it leak out with the car off. Close the valve and fill with 50/50 or w.e. your choosing to run. Make sure the car is leveled and turn it on and keep topping it off i did this quickly and was having issues so i did it again with the cap off and let the fan turn on twice. I turned the ac on and let it run for another 10 mins until the water stayed still and stop fluctuating.
#12
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
You don't have to take off anything to replace the heater hose coupler. Well maybe the engine cover so that you have more space to work with.
I picked up an aluminum coupler at my local Oreilys when my stock one cracked. Sorry don't have the part # but you should be able to find it on their website easily, just make sure the hose diameter matches.
I picked up an aluminum coupler at my local Oreilys when my stock one cracked. Sorry don't have the part # but you should be able to find it on their website easily, just make sure the hose diameter matches.
#13
Registered Member
You don't have to take off anything to replace the heater hose coupler. Well maybe the engine cover so that you have more space to work with.
I picked up an aluminum coupler at my local Oreilys when my stock one cracked. Sorry don't have the part # but you should be able to find it on their website easily, just make sure the hose diameter matches.
I picked up an aluminum coupler at my local Oreilys when my stock one cracked. Sorry don't have the part # but you should be able to find it on their website easily, just make sure the hose diameter matches.
I called Oreily's and I might as well been speaking mandarin. Do you happen to know what the diameter of the connector is for the hose. Perhaps I can go down there and see what they have. I found this one online https://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-INFI....c100667.m2042.
I plan on calling Seb and Russ a Mechanic I know tomorrow to see what they know. For some reason, this place thought that the whole intake would have to be removed. All I know is that appears to be a slow leak and it is coming from the rear.
#14
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
It's very easy to see if the leak comes from the connector. After you park your car let it cool down a bit, reach the underside of the connector with your finger, and see if you feel coolant on your finger. The connector is right in front of the firewall, on the passenger side, you can't miss it.
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ezbme (05-20-2019)