Is FI realistic for 7AT AWD models?
Registered Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 74
Likes: 20
From: Burnsville, MN
I personally wouldn’t recommend it on the an awd g. I’ve been down that road. I got an awd coupe. Transmission didn’t even make it off the dyno and I just replaced my motor. If I could do it all
over, I’d go a different route. But at the same
time, a lot of the issues I’ve had were tune related so maybe things would’ve been different if I had a good tune on there. My transmission is built by level 10. Your 7AT should be fine if you stay on the 8psi pulley from stillen. 415tq is too much for the 7AT to handle. The stillen kit is better for the 7AT because the torque is so low. Feel free to message me if you have questions. I know all the stuff I just said is a lot
to take in.
over, I’d go a different route. But at the same
time, a lot of the issues I’ve had were tune related so maybe things would’ve been different if I had a good tune on there. My transmission is built by level 10. Your 7AT should be fine if you stay on the 8psi pulley from stillen. 415tq is too much for the 7AT to handle. The stillen kit is better for the 7AT because the torque is so low. Feel free to message me if you have questions. I know all the stuff I just said is a lot
to take in.
I would source a q50 trans (vr30 platform), then use fast intentions billet flex plate, and you should be good to go. I have seen q50 transmissions for about 1600$ give our take on ebay. seen them as low as 1k$.
Last edited by conkus805; Nov 13, 2018 at 08:22 PM.
You have any more info and pictures of the build. How much modification (if any) was involved. Very cool you were able to get that done.
Registered Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 164
Likes: 27
I'm pretty sure Husam is the fella that retrofit the GTR turbos to a 370z. There is a thread covering that build on the 370z board (correct me if I'm wrong Husam).
This would be an awesome "poor mans GTR" if it works.
The transfer case is what gets in everybodys way. A custom downpipe for the passenger side will be a challenge as well as the steering linkage and rack on the drivers side. However this was all done before at a much higher cost (GTM).
A budget TT kit for the awd cars would be epic.
Last edited by Invaderzim; Nov 21, 2018 at 07:53 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 164
Likes: 27
I was hoping to see something materialize with this. Any updates?
Premier Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 26
Likes: 9
From: Calgary
I know this is an old thread, but I would like to throw my 2 cents in, in case someone searches for info on the 7 AT and FI.
I have had the Stillen kit on my G37X for 5 years now, and 50,000 trouble free miles. No engine upgrades (except the Setrab oil cooler) and no transmission upgrades, except a transmission cooler and changed the fluid for Amsoil, and changed transmission fluid every 25,000 miles.
I had a conversation with Pat (?) from Level 10 several years ago. He suggested a few things:
1. Do add transmission cooling.
2. Do not upgrade transmission until it breaks. He doesn't charge more to upgrade a transmission that's shot, compared to one that's not.
3. Do have UpRev adjust the line pressures to his suggested pressures.
4. Do use the manual shift or paddle shifters.
5. Always use sport mode.
6. Never use downshifts to brake the car. Brake pads are cheap. Transmissions aren't.
So I followed his advice and so far, so good.
Some caveats: I have not altered anything from the Stillen kit, except for the canned tune. I got an e-tune from UpRev. So no smaller pulley, no upgraded impeller. Making around 400WHP.
If you go for big horsepower, things will break. My previous FI car (a Maxima) made 486HP at 13 PSI from a VQ30DEK. And everything broke, all the time.
I have had the Stillen kit on my G37X for 5 years now, and 50,000 trouble free miles. No engine upgrades (except the Setrab oil cooler) and no transmission upgrades, except a transmission cooler and changed the fluid for Amsoil, and changed transmission fluid every 25,000 miles.
I had a conversation with Pat (?) from Level 10 several years ago. He suggested a few things:
1. Do add transmission cooling.
2. Do not upgrade transmission until it breaks. He doesn't charge more to upgrade a transmission that's shot, compared to one that's not.
3. Do have UpRev adjust the line pressures to his suggested pressures.
4. Do use the manual shift or paddle shifters.
5. Always use sport mode.
6. Never use downshifts to brake the car. Brake pads are cheap. Transmissions aren't.
So I followed his advice and so far, so good.
Some caveats: I have not altered anything from the Stillen kit, except for the canned tune. I got an e-tune from UpRev. So no smaller pulley, no upgraded impeller. Making around 400WHP.
If you go for big horsepower, things will break. My previous FI car (a Maxima) made 486HP at 13 PSI from a VQ30DEK. And everything broke, all the time.
Registered Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 96
Likes: 28
I know this is an old thread, but I would like to throw my 2 cents in, in case someone searches for info on the 7 AT and FI.
I have had the Stillen kit on my G37X for 5 years now, and 50,000 trouble free miles. No engine upgrades (except the Setrab oil cooler) and no transmission upgrades, except a transmission cooler and changed the fluid for Amsoil, and changed transmission fluid every 25,000 miles.
I had a conversation with Pat (?) from Level 10 several years ago. He suggested a few things:
1. Do add transmission cooling.
2. Do not upgrade transmission until it breaks. He doesn't charge more to upgrade a transmission that's shot, compared to one that's not.
3. Do have UpRev adjust the line pressures to his suggested pressures.
4. Do use the manual shift or paddle shifters.
5. Always use sport mode.
6. Never use downshifts to brake the car. Brake pads are cheap. Transmissions aren't.
So I followed his advice and so far, so good.
Some caveats: I have not altered anything from the Stillen kit, except for the canned tune. I got an e-tune from UpRev. So no smaller pulley, no upgraded impeller. Making around 400WHP.
If you go for big horsepower, things will break. My previous FI car (a Maxima) made 486HP at 13 PSI from a VQ30DEK. And everything broke, all the time.
I have had the Stillen kit on my G37X for 5 years now, and 50,000 trouble free miles. No engine upgrades (except the Setrab oil cooler) and no transmission upgrades, except a transmission cooler and changed the fluid for Amsoil, and changed transmission fluid every 25,000 miles.
I had a conversation with Pat (?) from Level 10 several years ago. He suggested a few things:
1. Do add transmission cooling.
2. Do not upgrade transmission until it breaks. He doesn't charge more to upgrade a transmission that's shot, compared to one that's not.
3. Do have UpRev adjust the line pressures to his suggested pressures.
4. Do use the manual shift or paddle shifters.
5. Always use sport mode.
6. Never use downshifts to brake the car. Brake pads are cheap. Transmissions aren't.
So I followed his advice and so far, so good.
Some caveats: I have not altered anything from the Stillen kit, except for the canned tune. I got an e-tune from UpRev. So no smaller pulley, no upgraded impeller. Making around 400WHP.
If you go for big horsepower, things will break. My previous FI car (a Maxima) made 486HP at 13 PSI from a VQ30DEK. And everything broke, all the time.
Curious about #5...
Why always drive in sport mode?
My educated guess is 'D' mode is a more relaxed map and thus, creates more load on internals by keeping the car in a high gear at low RPMs in favor of MPG. You go into boost in this state (1/2 or full throttle) and you're really stressing your internals.
In DS, or manual mode, the car will favor lower gears and keep RPMs higher; creating less load on engine internals when pressing the accelerator pedal. Not sure why it's recommended not to engine break though. That would put the car in the higher RPMs, which is where it wants to be. Sure there's a reason but need some context on that.
In DS, or manual mode, the car will favor lower gears and keep RPMs higher; creating less load on engine internals when pressing the accelerator pedal. Not sure why it's recommended not to engine break though. That would put the car in the higher RPMs, which is where it wants to be. Sure there's a reason but need some context on that.
