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Question on tranny fluid filling 7AT

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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 04:42 PM
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Question on tranny fluid filling 7AT

I have a 2011 g37s with 7AT. I have read the DIY and have the fluid etc. I am looking for confirmation of where the fill plug is on the transmission. Am I supposed to use the overflow plug (driver front corner of trans pan) and fill it back up there?
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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Luky
I have a 2011 g37s with 7AT. I have read the DIY and have the fluid etc. I am looking for confirmation of where the fill plug is on the transmission. Am I supposed to use the overflow plug (driver front corner of trans pan) and fill it back up there?
See that tube in the bottom left corner, that's the fill, the other plug is the drain.
Question on tranny fluid filling 7AT-7vvopl4.jpg
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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 04:58 PM
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OK, got it. Thanks blnewt!
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 11:26 PM
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Let's us know how difficult it is. I'm about to hit 50k, and I plan to change it. However, I don't want to cook my tranny, so I think I will bring it to the "stealership" to change the tranny fluid.
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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 12:10 PM
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It's about as hard as changing your engine oil... not hard at all. As there isn't a real filter to change I didn't drop the pan. I just did 3 drain and fills. As long as you have some sort of an adaptor for your fluid pump to seal against the bottom of the fill tube it is a breeze. I have a set of Quick Jacks so it was very easy to lift the car and very stable. I ran it up to about 60 mph through each of the gears (about 2k rpm) between drains so it should also have cleared the oil cooler. I had to put blocks under the front wheels and lower the (back of the) car each time to get a full gallon to drain out. Order 3 gal of maxlife fluid for about $60 from walmart online and just do it. Good for peace of mind anyway. Have not been able to get agressive in the car yet to see if the high rpm shifts are any better.
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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 04:08 PM
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If the pan reaches the designated temperature and for the final fill, you fill it until it stops dripping out. What threw me off is the math involved to ensure whatever fluid you take out you put back in. Would it not be easier than to drain and fill until it drips out for each fill and drain?
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Luky
It's about as hard as changing your engine oil... not hard at all. As there isn't a real filter to change I didn't drop the pan. I just did 3 drain and fills. As long as you have some sort of an adaptor for your fluid pump to seal against the bottom of the fill tube it is a breeze. I have a set of Quick Jacks so it was very easy to lift the car and very stable. I ran it up to about 60 mph through each of the gears (about 2k rpm) between drains so it should also have cleared the oil cooler. I had to put blocks under the front wheels and lower the (back of the) car each time to get a full gallon to drain out. Order 3 gal of maxlife fluid for about $60 from walmart online and just do it. Good for peace of mind anyway. Have not been able to get agressive in the car yet to see if the high rpm shifts are any better.
Must be nice to have the set of Quick Jacks in the garage . Well, I will try to balance the car with 4 same brand, size jack stands, and hope I can get close to the surface level. When you said you ran it up to 60 mph through each of the gears, you meant that you put the car into the 1st gear and ran up to 60 mph, then slow down (or stop) and went into 2nd and ran up to 60 mph again, and kept doing that all the way to the 6th gear, am I right? I just want to do the "drain and fill" for now, and I will repeat the process for every 15k miles from now on. I am at 49k miles now. I heard that by doing the flush will damage the transmission, and Nissan and Honda don't recommend to do the flush.
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 12:43 PM
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I did both. Manually shifted to R up to 15mph, brake, then 1-7 keeping it about 2k rpm and put it in drive and let it slowly accelerate through the gears keeping it about 2k rpm then let off the gas and let it down shift. Easy on the brakes once the wheels slow down to about 10mph. You just want to make sure the fluid inside all the transmission passages is getting circulated/flushed by running though all the gears. Make sure the car is very stable on the jack stands and you will notice if your wheels are not balanced... Use caution and common sense. Safety first.

My car is definitely shifting smoother. I have another 2 gal of ATF coming and a couple of quarts of Redline 75-90W synthetic to do the Diff next weekend.
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 09:40 AM
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Quickjack is effing baller. Very jealous. One day!!!

I think I will get the stealership to do mine as well. I only have ~53K or so, but the tranny has been acting a little strange. Does it make manually shifting any faster/crisper?
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by future62
Quickjack is effing baller. Very jealous. One day!!!

I think I will get the stealership to do mine as well. I only have ~53K or so, but the tranny has been acting a little strange. Does it make manually shifting any faster/crisper?
Yeah the stealership wanted $1300 to do the Trans filter/pan and fluid change on my BMW 535i. I bought the parts and fluid on-line for about $250 and justified the quick jack to my wife as "savings". Since I work on her SUV too I didn't catch much flack. (Though I am still getting crap for the $250 27" monitor I bought last week to upgrade the 24"... Women!)

Can't really say about the manual shifting as I don't do it much. I might change the manual shift wires this weekend (so pull back is up shift like a BMW) so I can use it again. Overall I am not very impressed with the tranny in the G and I don't think a fluid change is going to help that much unless your fluid is really degraded...
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 05:53 AM
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Glad I had the 5AT for this. Sooo easy to do some quick drain and fills through the dipstick rather than using a fluid pump like me and my buddies did for a friends G37.
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