Chris11LE

Not sure if both of these issues are related, but this is whats happening:

Front right wheel area, Im getting what sounds like a plastic panel bouncing and hitting something when going over bumpy roads. Ive checked the battery cover, shock covers, etc and they all seem secure. I noticed if I grab the drive axle while the car is at rest I can actually shake it around a bit. Not sure if thats normal, but leads me to my second issue:

Under moderate to heavy acceleration, from about 55 to 60mph, I get a vibration through the steering wheel. I dont think its a balance issue because I can be at 55-60 and the steering wheel doesnt vibrate. It only happens under moderate to hard acceleration (i.e. getting up to speed on a short on ramp onto the highway). Tires are worn, but I dont see any belts popping out or chunks of rubber missing.

Car only has 25K miles on it but is obviously 6.5 years old

Ill most likely be taking it to the dealer when I get a chance but figured Id ask here first.

Thanks in advance.

-Chris

c1utchh

iTrader: (2)

Maybe its your wheel hub, or your bolts. I wheel is not supposed to move when you jerk at it.

Chris11LE

Its the actual axle that seems to move a little side to side....if I grab the wheel side of the shaft, I can move it side to side (essentially from the front of the car towards the back of the car and vice versa). Just a little bit but it does move....BOTH sides do this, so Im not sure its abnormal or not.

Chris11LE

Sorry for the thread resurrection but I figure you guys will get a kick out of this one.

I finally got around to bringing my car into the dealer for this and a couple other things:

1. Vibration during acceleration - now not only from 50-60mph, but 20-30mph as well. Steering wheel vibrates mostly, cant really feel it anywhere else.
DEALER DIAGNOSIS: Resonance from my R2C intake is causing the vibration. (all the way in my steering wheel, without shaking any other part of the car lol)

2. Clunk from what seems like right front shock area when going over small bumps.
DEALER DIAGNOSIS: Hotchkiss sways are the problem (nevermind the fact I told them I drove without the sway attached and still had the same sound)

3. Car idles at 550RPM when warmed up....I dont think its supposed to be this way.
DEALER DIAGNOSIS: Pay them $360 for "major fuel clean service" to get it to idle better.

4. Possible EVAP issue, wife couldnt fill tank more than 3 seconds at a time.
DEALER DIAGNOSIS: Could not re-create, was able to fill tank.

HOWEVER, they did note that I needed:

New rear brake pads and rotor surfacing ($589)
Brake fluid needs to be flushed ($149)
Front rotor resurface ($208)
New tires ($741) and alignment ($139)

I agree on the tires being needed, at least soon (maybe not now) but God only knows what kinda crap tire they were giving me for $741. But a total of almost $2200 to *maybe* fix ONE of the issues I brought it in for.

Ill go back to fixing my own stuff now. Really tried to do the right thing and give the dealer some work but I guess thats what I get.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, but don't forget you get free coffee & donuts, and maybe even a comp wash that will make you have to purchase a buffer & compound to correct the paint, lol

Chris11LE

Funny you mention that, have you seen my history with that dealer?

They did just that...washed my car when I brought it in for something. Probably 4 or 5 years ago, I took it in late Feb/early march so it was covered in salt/sand/whatever and I told them DO NOT WASH. It was raining when I picked it up, so it wasnt until the next day I saw the absolutely horrible swirl marks ALL OVER my previously almost-perfect paint.

I made them pay for professional fixing and re-application of OptiCoat. If they never paid for it I would never go back to them, so I went back to them yesterday and NOW will never go back

The only tiny bright side was I got to fling around in a QX30 loaner. Quick little thing!

ANMVQ

iTrader: (13)

Too bad man sounds on par for alot of dealers :/. Um did you say they filled the tank, hows the car running cause you know! they used 87. , ..

Chris11LE

Was thinking about that this morning....they put 20.00 in but I never asked of what.

Ill top it off with premium this weekend and maybe a bottle of Techron for good measure.

Chris11LE

Need to resurrect this thread, unfortunately.

I put my winter wheels on and the vibration is still exactly the same...20-30mph and 50-60mph under moderate acceleration, the steering wheel vibrates. Back off of acceleration and the vibration stops. Coast through those speed ranges (from 60 to 50 or 30 to 20), no vibration.

I was hoping it was just the tires but the winter ones do it too, so Im ruling out tires. Other ideas? I was thinking axles, ball joints, shocks or wheel bearings. Ive also noticed some more vibration while sitting at idle, so maybe engine mounts (even though the dealer said they were fine).

Im not quite sure how to check all of these things....the axle boots are intact, I dont see any indication of grease leaking out. Ball joints, shocks, wheel bearings...not exactly sure how to check.

Thanks in advance.

-Chris

jpg37

If the vibration is only on acceleration, I would say a drive line problem.

Chris11LE

Yeah, that seems to make sense.

I hate to just throw parts at it, though. Looking at used OEM axles because that seems to be the cheapest part out of the whole deal Not the easiest to replace but knowing the history (a large hidden ice block that I hit at speed, with the right front wheel) it makes me want to start there.