It's been shifting roughly for a while now but now it's beginning to concern me. It over revs and thuds sometimes between upshifts in both auto and manual mode. Switching from reverse to drive is met with a neck snapping thud. My biggest concern is when I hit the gas from a stop and the car doesn't accelerate at first, but rather revs, thuds, then launches me foward. This occurs mostly when the car is still cold and hasn't warmed up yet. Actually this happens almost every morning when I start the car and drive it. Rarely happens when warmed up. I'm only at 70k miles, but I only drive in manual mode 24/7 (my next car will be a stick or double clutch) and spirited driving is done at every given chance.

Are my clutch packs going bad? Should I get a transmission fluid flush/change? Dealer keeps telling me my tranny is fine but I doubt these ****wads even looked. Since I do plan on driving my car in manual mode only, what upgrades do you guys recommend for the longevity of my tranny? I know autos aren't meant to be shifted 24/7 and lugged around but I wasn't really given a choice on what tranny I could have.

Off topic, but my idle also likes to flucuate in park or at a stop in gear, especially with the AC on.

 

I know this sounds absolutely retarded and pointless, but I hit the gas before I downshift (rev-match?) so my downshifts sound louder and crisper. You have to time it just right as there is a delay between when you shift and the tranny actually shifts. It only works in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. I also tend to do this when im braking to enter a corner. I thought it was a healthy thing to do cause I assumed that there would be less tranny braking/gear grinding between shifts, but lately its been doing it on its own without me hitting the gas. Does this mess up anything like the ecu or ignition timing?

 

For me, I took this approach in tranny upgrades:
- Trans grounding cable (Done, peace of mind thing, nothing too scientific)
- Trans cooler (Done)
- Larger trans pan (Done)
- Level Ten Valve Body upgrade (scheduled Oct 17)
- Level Ten Torque Converter upgrade (scheduled Oct 18)

After the valve body upgrade, I'll get a tune. Then again after the converter is swapped. In between the valve body and converter, I'll have the driveshaft swapped or the 4.08 gear upgrade done. Good luck

 

I'd make sure all AT update TSBs have been done and look into getting a 3x drain & fill, here's the DIY on the site, or the dealer can do this. I wouldn't recommend a flush though, the pressure flush can dislodge residue that can get into the AT internals. Only the 3x drain & fill has a Infiniti/Nissan FSM procedure. The DIY also includes dropping the pan to clean it & the magnets, if you go through the dealer I'd ask to have that performed as well.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...rop-clean.html

 

What are your thoughts on an aluminum flex plate?

 

Would a flush be beneficial if there is a lot of residue? Could it be done if I removed the internals?

 

That's something above my pay grade to answer
If the transmission is going to be rebuilt or upgraded as per a Level 10 like Bravo at is planning, then the transmission would be gone through by the company. If it were me, I'd go through the 3x drain & fill and be sure the updates have been applied, then see how it's performing. If you plan on running a higher HP setup like FI, then a Level 10 would be a solid plan. For a spirited daily driver the AT should hold up just fine, but like any mechanical auto part there are failures that can occur, and if your AT is failing I'd call Level 10 and see what they say regarding the best approach at that point.

Bravos steps of adding a trans cooler and larger pan are more ways to keep the OEM AT running cooler if you plan to really push this car.

 

Yeah im really considering a trans cooler and a possible valvebody upgrade but I had no idea a larger pan could keep the AT running cooler. If a fluid drain/fill solves my tranny issues I won't go too crazy with the tranny upgrades. Unless my tranny is falling apart

 

Replace the transmission fluid and make sure you have the latest transmission update. If that doesn't fix it, go from there.

upgrades aren't really needed unless you are racing it. The occasional spirited drive isn't going to cook your fluid.

 

My dealership did say my tranny is up to date but ill ask again..I may be guilty of racing , but im much more civilized now. The dealership is the only place that can replace the fluid right? Unless I buy the fluid from the dealership and do it myself? Does a hot shift **** and center console mean that the tranny is overheating? It happens after an extended period of time in high revs combined with laggy rough shifting. I at least want to get a tranny cooler as a bare minimum.

 

Nvm, I reopened blnewts link found the amsoil fluid

 

This looks like a pretty difficult and time consuming diy. I dont think I even have the tools to pull it off lol

 

For me, overkill unless for track days are on the agenda.

 

Dealership will do the fluid change for about $300. If you are inclined to do it yourself, find my DIY on building a cheap fluid pump. It took me less than an hour to do the trans fluid. All you'll need is the pump, a socket wrench, allen wrench and a sticker thermometer. You don't need to buy expensive Matic S from the dealership. Valvoline maxlife works fine.