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I've done my fair share of searching on this issue, but haven't found anyone with the same issue.
Occasionally, when I transition from clutch to gas, the car will suddenly not accelerate normally, only under 3k rpms. It will act up for at least 20 minutes. It's as if the car is loosing traction or fuel. It will shudder somewhat, but not like the "I dont know how to drive a stick" shudder. Then suddenly, BAM! a massive gain in power. This will continue in every gear, as long as it's under 3k rpms.
It has spent weeks at the dealership between four different visits, and they can never replicate the problem with the tech. Twice, I have driven the service consultants in the car, and they have seen the issue... but still could not replicate.
No codes are thrown, nothing shows in the computers at the dealership.
Things I have thought of, or been suggested are: accelerator pedal position sensor, throttle position sensor, MAFs (I cleaned them, but no difference), cam shaft sensor, fuel pump (or other fuel issue), traction issue, and clutch issue.
No it isn't. I would kindly say your expertise on the matter is no longer required.
for others that actually care, earlier in this thread, or possibly another, it throws 2 codes for the throttle bodies while still under the same run in which it occurs (p0101, and p010b). However, the codes disappear when you turn off the car. Which makes sense, as that's exactly what i do when this happens. And it's gone when the car comes back on. I've read on two occassions that this was resolved by swapping for new throttle bodies.
the next time it happens to me, I'll plug it up and see if these codes throw for me. If that's the case, my next mods were intakes and eps tb's anyway. (And yes, ultimately a tune for the new parts).
Mine is like this as well. Have a motordyne exhaust a stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel and the rest is stock. One time I switched to k&n drop in filters and my car had a huge loss of power (bogging,very slow acceleration) and I went back to the oem filters and the car was back up to full power.
There were also a few occasions when driving with traction control on, felt more powerful and more responsive than driving with it off. I would literally lightly press the gas pedal and the car just wanted to go. I had never felt the car respond that way before. It felt much more powerful and would kick me back in my seat in every gear. And then next day all that was gone. I could feel the hesitation again, the power I had seen before was not there.
I have cleaned the throttle bodies, cleaned the maf sensors, put new oem spec air filters, always pump shell 91 fuel, replaced spark plugs ( one thing to note I replaced them for the first time ever at 96xxx miles and I felt a big difference in throttle response. Car now has 107k) I have reset ECU /throttle/accelerator. No check engine light on with no codes showing up. Car pulls fine once I’m above 3k rpms, but I have seen a whole different animal than I’m used to, which makes me wonder what could be causing this...
Mine is like this as well. Have a motordyne exhaust a stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel and the rest is stock. One time I switched to k&n drop in filters and my car had a huge loss of power (bogging,very slow acceleration) and I went back to the oem filters and the car was back up to full power.
There were also a few occasions when driving with traction control on, felt more powerful and more responsive than driving with it off. I would literally lightly press the gas pedal and the car just wanted to go. I had never felt the car respond that way before. It felt much more powerful and would kick me back in my seat in every gear. And then next day all that was gone. I could feel the hesitation again, the power I had seen before was not there.
I have cleaned the throttle bodies, cleaned the maf sensors, put new oem spec air filters, always pump shell 91 fuel, replaced spark plugs ( one thing to note I replaced them for the first time ever at 96xxx miles and I felt a big difference in throttle response. Car now has 107k) I have reset ECU /throttle/accelerator. No check engine light on with no codes showing up. Car pulls fine once I’m above 3k rpms, but I have seen a whole different animal than I’m used to, which makes me wonder what could be causing this...
That was the plan. Not so much anymore. Don’t want to dump 800$ -1000$ in it just to make a tune worth it. Unless a tune by itself with no other mods added will greatly help my situation, if not, then I don’t see the point.
That was the plan. Not so much anymore. Don’t want to dump 800$ -1000$ in it just to make a tune worth it. Unless a tune by itself with no other mods added will greatly help my situation, if not, then I don’t see the point.
not sure if you have test pipes. If you do thats the issue. If not im not sure a tune would help. If you do have them i think a tune would solve
hey guys, so I've been looking into this problem quite a bit. You can also go on the 370z forums to find more info on this.
Anyways after cleaning the throttle bodies, changed spark plugs, cleaned mafs and pretty much everything else, somebody mentioned that it can be a faulty crankshaft positioned sensor. Somebody else mentioned a camshaft position sensor. Pretty much if any of these two fail, you feel a loss of power at low rpm and all sorts of other problems. Something to do with the variable valve timing or something which made it go retarded. You should look into how this part works, pretty cool imo. I got the CRANKSHAFT position sensor not the CAMSHAFT position sensor aftermarket from partsource ($120 bucks) and installed it myself. Make sure the exhaust is cold and it's kinda tricky to get in there. You need a 10m with a short extension and a flexible socket. There is a heat shield with a 10m which you can just loosen up and push down, and then there is another 10m to actually take out the CRANKSHAFT positioned sensor. Took it out, cleaned the edges (make sure no debris gets inside) and replaced it. The difference was night and day. Make sure to break it in nicely, so drive with respect, as these ladies deserve it.
I hope this fixes my issue which was acting up under 3k rpms and what not. It felt like a 100hp 4 cylinder was running up until 3k rpms when a glorious trumpet would arise and sing its melody of the beautiful VQ engines.
I really hope this helps. Btw it did use to throw some codes but I kept deleting them. Eventually the car was acting up. Something about a bank 1 or 2 cant remember.
hey guys, so I've been looking into this problem quite a bit. You can also go on the 370z forums to find more info on this.
Anyways after cleaning the throttle bodies, changed spark plugs, cleaned mafs and pretty much everything else, somebody mentioned that it can be a faulty crankshaft positioned sensor. Somebody else mentioned a camshaft position sensor. Pretty much if any of these two fail, you feel a loss of power at low rpm and all sorts of other problems. Something to do with the variable valve timing or something which made it go retarded. You should look into how this part works, pretty cool imo. I got the CRANKSHAFT position sensor not the CAMSHAFT position sensor aftermarket from partsource ($120 bucks) and installed it myself. Make sure the exhaust is cold and it's kinda tricky to get in there. You need a 10m with a short extension and a flexible socket. There is a heat shield with a 10m which you can just loosen up and push down, and then there is another 10m to actually take out the CRANKSHAFT positioned sensor. Took it out, cleaned the edges (make sure no debris gets inside) and replaced it. The difference was night and day. Make sure to break it in nicely, so drive with respect, as these ladies deserve it.
I hope this fixes my issue which was acting up under 3k rpms and what not. It felt like a 100hp 4 cylinder was running up until 3k rpms when a glorious trumpet would arise and sing its melody of the beautiful VQ engines.
I really hope this helps. Btw it did use to throw some codes but I kept deleting them. Eventually the car was acting up. Something about a bank 1 or 2 cant remember.
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Thanks for sharing, I’ll look into this if this ever happens again. Btw, what made you only replace one sensor and not both?
New guy here. I too am interested in this for the Q60S car I am bringing home tomorrow appears to have this same issued. Especially when compared to the little womans automatic q60.
I read somewhere, but saved the article at work that the cause was a faulty brake switch. Something with voltage and not sending proper signals to the ECU.
Also the MAF sensors. Both of those are inexpensive DIY jobs that take maybe half hour. That will be first thing I try on Monday. After that, I will have dealer reflash ECU and take it from there.
BTW, is it possible for dealer to flash the IPL tune onto the sport model car if its not an IPL model?
Has anyone else tried replacing the aforementioned sensors? I have been dealing with this issue since I purchased my car. I always thought it was just normal for these cars...apparently not? I basically have to rev my engine to about 3k just to get moving. I always assumed that these cars were just tuned for luxury driving and that this was intentional to keep them from being too jumpy off the line. Can some of you vets who have owned your G for a while chime in? Is your car laggy or punchy at low RPMs? My car has actually stalled a couple of times on startup because the issue is so bad. I have gone from stock to having a lightweight flywheel (Zspeed) and intake (R2C), nothing has changed.
Ok, just talked to my mechanic friend. He said the crankshaft position sensor would throw a CEL, so this is most likely the cam position sensor. Apparently this is a common issue in BMWs as well.
12-06-2018, 06:32 PM
