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if you are replacing the heater bypass hose it would mean losing quite a significant amount of coolant especially coming out of the heater core. you would definetely need to bleed it if you don't want excess air in the cooling sys causing idling issues or the noise of coolant sloshing around coming from your dash as you make left and right turns.
I had my coupler break as well and when i tried fo get it out it broke in three pieces 2/3 fell into the lower coolent hose should i take lower hose off and try to retrieve them or will it be ok to leave them
Hey yall got some questions what psi should the pressure test be at? I went up to 20 and it leaked from several places but at 15 it was just one hose. I believe it's just old clamps that cant keep it together at 20psi which shouldn't be the cause of a leak. The pic is an odd leak on the driver side at 20 psi. On the bottom of the engine. I'm having some fluctuations on idle and losing about quarter gallon a month
The place I take my car for oil told me that I have a coolant leak in the back. I am guessing it is the plastic heater bypass. I saw someone mention that there is a metal one available from O'Reily. This mechanic is telling me that they have to take off the intake manifold and Lower plenum does that sound right?
So I am taking it to a Z performance shop near me. They manufacture a aluminum hose connector. They are going to give it a look tomorrow. I might see about getting the Z1 hoses. They said they can do it without removing the intake manifold. I think the other people just wanted my $$.
This friend who is a mechanic looked at it. It appears to be a hose connected to the passenger side throttle body. The plan is to order new clamps and new hoses for the right side of the car. That should keep her for another 8 years.
It looks like it was the back throttle body clamp. I bought some hoses that he didn't replacee, so I have about $40 worth of hoses. They are the connector, the two that are attached to the connector and the clips. So not including the extra parts the repair was $112. I could have probably did the repair but he has the tools and I don't. He said that the old connector, hoses and clamps looked good. My coolant is less than a year old and hopefully I won't have any drama for as long as I have her.
I also just started having this dreaded coolant leak issue. From underneath the car, I see the coolant has leaked to this area on the driver side above the oil pan. Would this leak be consistent with the hose at the rear of the engine as in post #8 above?
Last edited by Ryus; 05-28-2019 at 11:27 PM.
Reason: updated picture
I also just started having this dreaded coolant leak issue. From underneath the car, I see the coolant has leaked to this area on the driver side above the oil pan. Would this leak be consistent with the hose at the rear of the engine as in post #8 above?
NO, post #8 is showing a leaking heater hose at the back of the engine....
your pictures are showing a leak closer to the front it seems from position alone that its a more consistent with a leak from throttle body coolant hose (from your pic it seems like thats the hose leaking but hard to tell as the picture is obstructed where the leak is [take better pics])...this is a relatively small issue just requiring the replacement of the hose and clamps
On the other hand if the leak is originating from that red square area and not the hose it seems more consistent with a weeping hole leak due to a failing water pump like in this thread: https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-loss-77k.html ...
You may want to clean up that hose to see if you can trace the leak further or just change it and see if it fixes the problem...good luck and post up when you fix the problem
Last edited by Baadnewsburr; 05-29-2019 at 09:04 AM.
Reason: updated info
I also just started having this dreaded coolant leak issue. From underneath the car, I see the coolant has leaked to this area on the driver side above the oil pan. Would this leak be consistent with the hose at the rear of the engine as in post #8 above?
I see a bigger problem, it looks like a fram filter. Those things will destroy your engine. Got with a Purolator or Wix. As I mentioned the heat makes the clamps lose their strength. Just get a couple of the clamps for the throttle body.
NO, post #8 is showing a leaking heater hose at the back of the engine....
your pictures are showing a leak closer to the front it seems from position alone that its a more consistent with a leak from throttle body coolant hose (from your pic it seems like thats the hose leaking but hard to tell as the picture is obstructed where the leak is [take better pics])...this is a relatively small issue just requiring the replacement of the hose and clamps
On the other hand if the leak is originating from that red square area and not the hose it seems more consistent with a weeping hole leak due to a failing water pump like in this thread: https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-loss-77k.html ...
You may want to clean up that hose to see if you can trace the leak further or just change it and see if it fixes the problem...good luck and post up when you fix the problem
Thanks for the link, I also watched the Youtube video in that thread of the leak. I haven't actually seen the leaking live, I just took the picture of the wet area I could found, my car is currently at an Infiniti dealer now. They did a pressure test yesterday and didn't know where the leak was coming from, saying that to pinpoint the exact leak would require removing the timing cover, timing chain and stuff, then also to remove the inner timing cover and that the labour cost would be as much as the labour to replace the engine. Their advice was to replace the engine due to the labour cost. WOW, such a drastic measure replacing the engine over coolant leak.
Btw, what is the water pump weeping hole? Is this hole where the leak is happening in the other thread and my pic, or is the weeping hole actually on the water pump? My leak does look similar to the water pump leaking thread.
Btw, what is the water pump weeping hole? Is this hole where the leak is happening in the other thread and my pic, or is the weeping hole actually on the water pump? My leak does look similar to the water pump leaking thread.
my understanding is that a weeping hole is a hole designed to leak so that you can have an external signal of an internal failure (i.e. how the dealership is telling you that they need to tear into the block to diagnose it)...In this case the hole is in the block and designed to "weep" (leak) some coolant from that hole so that you can diagnose the issue from outside somewhat reliably...if its the water pump most people also change their oil gallery gaskets and get some timing chain/guide/tensioner work done while they're in there on these cars because the work is so involved...lots of threads on here best to get multiple quotes as they can vary widely from what you mentioned to way less
A month ago my mechanic neighbor installed the hoses for the passenger throttle body but he didn't want to take the time to replace the other hoses I bought, which is basically the connector, clamp and hoses.. Now it looks like the plastic connector between the two hoses on the passenger side is leaking. He is in China right now.. I hope he comes back soon. When it rains, it pours. I got a gallon of coolant at home and I'll keep an eye on it. Worse comes to worse. I will go to the speed shop that was originally going to do it.
I agree with that. Especially the little lines. All the passenger lines are done now. What is left is the right side and the the front hosels. I kept calling mobile mechanics to do the work. This one flaked on me. Finally I found one who only charged me $75 to attach the connector to the two hoses and then attached them to the fire wall and the left side of the car. He pressure tested the car and it held. It is kinda crazy. I don't think I ever had to replace any hoses on my old BMWs and they were much older. I did have to replace the radiators, holding tanks, and water pumps. 1 was preventative, another was a surprise.
The hoses and connector were so difficult for the mechanic to do, due to the space restrictions, I am glad I didn't even try. If I had to do it again, I would have had thisI guy do the whole job and I would have gotten the aluminum connector. I plan on getting the spark plugs and coils replaced in December 198,000 miles. I might have this mechanic do it. If it was as easy as my Bmw, I would do it myself.
02-25-2018, 04:34 PM
