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Frozen Boost Heat Exchanger

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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 02:43 PM
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msonbolg37x
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From: Burnsville, MN
Frozen Boost Heat Exchanger

Hello

I'm currently running the stillen supercharger and i was thinking about upgrading to the frozen boost heat exchanger. I was wondering if I have to get new lines as well or will the stock lines fit on the new exchanger and where did you guys go to get your mounting brackets done?

Thanks Guys
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 10:07 PM
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Good info here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...tercooler.html Scroll to pg. 2
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 08:37 PM
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Thank you!
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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The thread posted by Invaderzim is pretty comprehensive. When I first installed mine I offset it slightly so that I could maintain access to the tow hook. I had a mesh screen on the lower grill so it was pretty much impossible to see, but this year I did a bunch of cosmetic mods including a full wrap, and it always bugged me, so I flipped the crash bar and it is now centered. Best cooling that way anyway
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 02:28 PM
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Just buy the Air to Air upgrade instead and make 500whp and 400wtq!
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Topgunz
Just buy the Air to Air upgrade instead and make 500whp and 400wtq!
Yep... forget the SC... just have an air to air intercooler ROTFL
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by goredcar
Yep... forget the SC... just have an air to air intercooler ROTFL
Ummm..yyyeeaahhh.. That's exactly what I was going for. The fact you gathered that means you just have no clue.
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 10:37 PM
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Yup, no sc on there, just the a2a. Only making 527whp. How much is your frozen boost getting ya?
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Topgunz
Ummm..yyyeeaahhh.. That's exactly what I was going for. The fact you gathered that means you just have no clue.
Actually I'm made 443WHP on a very tough dyno where I made 286 with full bolt on's NA. I didn't have my car dyno'd after the FB upgrade. Dyno numbers are totally arbitrary and based on the individual measuring instrument. I have never heard of over 500 on a Stillen kit. Even approaching 500 requires significant modification to the kit.

Seeing as how you already know everything you would know that cooling does not create power, but simply allows continual power to be developed on repeated runs without heat soak. Power developed is a function of forced induction, fuel system, and airflow.
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 02:30 PM
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Oh so cooler air doesn't make power? You should write a book. And I have sold that kit to over 20 guys. One of which is making 556whp. You have never heard of over 500 because that's on the water setup. That sucks. Plus it's got the mafs as pull through 7 feet from the throttle bodies. Mine are 7 inches and blow through measuring actual intake temps instead of telling the computer it's ambient when it isn't.
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Topgunz
Oh so cooler air doesn't make power? ....
The debate on air to air vs air to water has been going on for a long time and I doubt that we will solve it here. I completely agree that cooler air makes more power because it is denser and provides better combustion in FI applications. I notice this every fall as it gets pretty cool here. However, the efficiency of air to air is subject to ambient air temp and also airflow. I also agree that the MAFs are not in an ideal spot, but that is not directly related to cooling. I'm not a fan of many of the things Stillen designed on the kit, but from what I have read air to water is considered superior. Water to Air Vs Air to Air Intercooler | intercooler air water FMIC

I'm certainly open to options to increase power. I would be interested in any dyno comparison of someone who has moved from water to air with the same pulley.
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 03:52 AM
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Topgunz knows what he's talking about. There a huge thread on the 370Z board about converting to A2A, and yes, it makes power on the Stillen kit. There are several posts of people who measured the AIT from the actual manifold (post aftercooler), and the IAT's skyrocket when you're on boost - even on the first pull. It's the size of the aftercooler that's built into the Stillen manifold that can't keep up. The FB HE helps (I have one on my car) but A2A is the way to go. If only it was CARB legal, I'd have one on my car.
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 01:09 PM
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Stillen s/c

where is the best place to buy the stillen s/c kit from do we have someone on the site who offers @ a discount? Have asked this in A couple different spots and was told to watch classifieds but I'm looking for a new kit in about may should I buy directly from stillen? Thanks guys
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:21 PM
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I got mine from Stillen, but if I wasn't getting a CARB kit, I would have bought from Z1 and bought a tune from them.
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by goredcar
The debate on air to air vs air to water has been going on for a long time and I doubt that we will solve it here. I completely agree that cooler air makes more power because it is denser and provides better combustion in FI applications. I notice this every fall as it gets pretty cool here. However, the efficiency of air to air is subject to ambient air temp and also airflow. I also agree that the MAFs are not in an ideal spot, but that is not directly related to cooling. I'm not a fan of many of the things Stillen designed on the kit, but from what I have read air to water is considered superior. Water to Air Vs Air to Air Intercooler | intercooler air water FMIC

I'm certainly open to options to increase power. I would be interested in any dyno comparison of someone who has moved from water to air with the same pulley.
In bold. What is the air to water subject to? Not Air? What is cooling your water?....yes, the same air that cools air to air. Except your tiny aftercooler is sitting inside of an oven at 200*F just baking away.
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