Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
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I need help with power loss

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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 10:34 AM
  #31  
audiRS4ever's Avatar
audiRS4ever
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Originally Posted by Surfnazi
No just clean the sensor and throttle body
Cool, I'll give that a shot later on. I already cleaned the throttle bodies, but not the MAF yet.
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 11:26 AM
  #32  
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CAD
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From: Toronto / Boston
Originally Posted by audiRS4ever
thing is going to drive me to the drink.
Because that takes a lot
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 05:06 PM
  #33  
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Surfnazi
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Spray the throttle body cleaner liberally on both sides of the butterfly. The screws that hold in the maf drop easily so use capture screw or be careful. I bought a pack of replacement ones from pep boys that had 6 or 8 new bolts and washers for like 2 bucks same size and pitch
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 03:18 PM
  #34  
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Elco
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From: Romania
Originally Posted by gbenz
Since my last post, have not found any solution. Still happens out of the blue and my fix has been just pulling over and restarting the car. Been to dealer twice, cleaned maf, throttle body and intake filters with no solid results. I dont have stalling issues and never thrown a code. It's been about a month since last occurance.
Check the brake switches. Especially the one on the left.
I had a similar problem about 2 years ago and it was the brake switch.
No CEL, No errors... Toke me almost a day to find the cause...
Replaced the switch and all was fine.
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Old Sep 16, 2024 | 12:45 PM
  #35  
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Check brake pedal rubber stoppers

I had this same power loss issue coupled with a problem with my brake lights staying on when the car was turned off. Turns out there are 2 rubber stops in the brake pedal arm just above the pedal itself. Both had dry rotted and finally gave out. I had noticed little pieces of them rolling around the floorboard for a couple weeks. Then a much bigger chunk on the day the brake lights wouldn't turn off at work that day. Then later when I went to drive home is when the power loss issue happened. It was really debilitating, exactly as others have described in this thread. Anyway I got it home and thought it was maybe a battery or alternator or both type of issue messing with the fuel system and computer because I got some other random dash warning lights on the way home. I found a youtube video about the same brake light issue and that clued me into where the rubber bits were coming from and why the brake lights wouldn't go off. Today I replaced those 2 rubber stops with $10 parts from autozone. It is Dorman part #74015, a 2 pack of brake and clutch pedal stops. My issues seem to be solved. Brake lights go off when they are supposed to and acceleration is back to normal, killing it!
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Old Sep 16, 2024 | 05:48 PM
  #36  
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ILM-NC G37S
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Originally Posted by Jloego
...tthere are 2 rubber stops in the brake pedal arm just above the pedal itself. Both had dry rotted and finally gave out. I had noticed little pieces of them rolling around the floorboard for a couple weeks. Then a much bigger chunk...
In my case it was the cruise control pad that gave out first. As soon as I went to remove the brake pedal one it shattered in chunks. As these cars age this is going to be another issue with, thankfully, a simple fix.

Thanks for providing the Dorman p/n.

For those interested, the OEM p/n is 46584-S0100. At the time they were $3.11 each from Nissan.

Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Sep 16, 2024 at 05:54 PM.
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