Rpms dip/oil light comes on at idle
Rpms dip/oil light comes on at idle
I've done a little research on this, mostly see people say it could be bad oil pressure? Tbh I know a bit about cars but I'm no mechanic. Its come on once or twice at high speeds too when I'm really getting into the throttle. Basically I'll be driving, come to a stop and it will idle, rpms dip and oil light comes on, then rpms come back up (on its own) and oil light goes back off. Recently its been doing it at basically every other stop. Any information is GREATLY appreciated!
The low pressure light? You shouldn't be driving your car, if you're lucky you haven't already done a bunch of damage to your engine. What year, mileage and other info? Oil levels good? You're gonna need to give a bunch more info about your car if you want help with it.
The low pressure light? You shouldn't be driving your car, if you're lucky you haven't already done a bunch of damage to your engine. What year, mileage and other info? Oil levels good? You're gonna need to give a bunch more info about your car if you want help with it.
Edit: no visible leaks either that I've seen . Ive always used full synethic oil, change it ever 4k miles.
Edit 2: I checked oil again, I guess it is between full and low on the dip stick. Also haven't been driving it much, drove it a couple times with the light coming on and haven't drive it since. Definitely have me worried I ****ed up the engine now. Lol
Last edited by nitsua26; May 11, 2016 at 10:10 AM.
Get those gaskets changed out. Mine was doing the same thing just no oil light until it was too late (blown engine). I got a CEL for cam over timed and random misfire. My oil level was perfect when it happened.
New revised gaskets and fasteners are $75 from EPS Tuning. The money and time if you can't do it yourself is removing the front cover.
New revised gaskets and fasteners are $75 from EPS Tuning. The money and time if you can't do it yourself is removing the front cover.
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Yes, get your oil pressure checked.
Dsskyline, I'm intrigued that you used hex screws instead of the standard phillips from your pic for your gasket cover. Did you use any oil resistant lock tightener with these if you felt it necessary and how tight do they need to be or torque spec you came up with? Curious, thank you.
Edit: Nevermind I missed that you received your parts from EPS Tuning.
Dsskyline, I'm intrigued that you used hex screws instead of the standard phillips from your pic for your gasket cover. Did you use any oil resistant lock tightener with these if you felt it necessary and how tight do they need to be or torque spec you came up with? Curious, thank you.
Edit: Nevermind I missed that you received your parts from EPS Tuning.
Last edited by WTN; May 11, 2016 at 03:29 PM.
Has anyone ever changed their oil pump? Seems pretty straight forward but people always make it seem easier than it is
The oil pump is not the issue.
You need to take it to a shop or dealer and get them to measure the oil pressure with the engine fully warmed up Is should be 14 psi or more. The low oil pressure light turns on at about 3 psi.
It could be a simple as a failing $20 oil pressure switch or it could be a internal leak known to our engine. (Oil gallery gasket on the rear timing chain cover.)
You need to take it to a shop or dealer and get them to measure the oil pressure with the engine fully warmed up Is should be 14 psi or more. The low oil pressure light turns on at about 3 psi.
It could be a simple as a failing $20 oil pressure switch or it could be a internal leak known to our engine. (Oil gallery gasket on the rear timing chain cover.)
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