Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
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tune with upgraded plugs?

Old Jul 12, 2016 | 05:57 PM
  #16  
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In the day, we used to read the plugs and go from there. Detonation, burned plugs, too hot; dark, fowled, too cold. Always looking for good color optimized for a particular driving style. Or just clone a good setup. :-)
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #17  
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Been there, done that
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 12:27 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by slartibartfast
Been there, done that
What more can you do? Sounds like you are good to go.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 12:59 AM
  #19  
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If I were the OP, that would be great.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 10:40 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by slartibartfast
If I were the OP, that would be great.
The good news for the OP is that replacing with OEM G37 plugs is the same as replacing with GT-R plugs. Bottom line is that with more HP you do need to be a range cooler... that is correct, but that is not the GT-R plug as many posters have mistakenly suggested. Funny that we haven't heard from any of these guys... ROTFL
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 10:47 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by goredcar
The good news for the OP is that replacing with OEM G37 plugs is the same as replacing with GT-R plugs. Bottom line is that with more HP you do need to be a range cooler... that is correct, but that is not the GT-R plug as many posters have mistakenly suggested. Funny that we haven't heard from any of these guys... ROTFL

I'll pull my plugs at 10k boosted miles and see what they look like. I should be roughly 1/3 of the way there.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 12:15 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by goredcar
Heat range 8 for the NGK = heat range 24 for Denso. I know of a Z turboed to over 500HP running the denso range 24 plugs with no problems. I am stunned how misinformation gets passed around on these forums and accepted as gospel. Everyone saying get GT-R plugs and they are exactly the same as OEM for Z or G37
Originally Posted by Waste86
I mean, they ARE different, but everyone says it is the heat range, but that does not appear to be true. Gap seems to be the major difference I would be interested in clarification on this as well.
Denso FXE24HR11 is not the OEM GT-R plug (NGK DILKAR8A8) while they may be listed as comparable heat ranges, the tip/electrode and pre-gap is different (.045 vs .031). The Denso FXE24HR11 is actually more comparable to the NGK DILKAR7B11.

FWIW my tuner has ran the FXE24HR11 up to 500 ish whp before seeing them crack.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 10:28 PM
  #23  
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So unless you're pushing 100+hp over stock there's no real benefit in not sticking with oem sparks?
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Old Nov 9, 2016 | 08:48 PM
  #24  
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Good info here, and thanks to everyone's input so far!

Looking at the different part numbers posted, in addition to the gap differences, there is also a difference in "Reach". Obviously, if some of you have been running GTR plugs, then they work, but it's a difference of 7.5mm for the GTR plugs. See these links:

Stock G37 plug:
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=41479

"GTR Plug" (NGK DILKAR8A8)
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9718

"GTR Plug" - one step colder (NGK DILKAR7B11)
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9717

^ Click on the "Specs" tab.

Can anyone tell me what effect a 7.5mm deeper 'Reach' would have? The site explains that 'Reach' is measured by thread depth, so the plug tip would effectively be 7.5mm deeper in the head, while the gap is slightly smaller.

My interest is that I have a supercharger on my car, and I originally tuned the car on 93 octane, but I just moved to a state where they only have 91 octane at the pumps. I'm amazed at how much I need to pull timing in the tune, so I'm trying to cool down the spark to bring back some of the timing.
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 08:08 AM
  #25  
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I keep hearing that Silver would be a lot better, but they don't last as long. I have never felt a positive change aside from factory plugs.
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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 06:06 PM
  #26  
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If I install the DILKAR8A8 plugs do I need to change the gap or keep it at .031?
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