Timing chain gasket blown, need help with part info
11-11-2015, 09:39 PM
#47
Registered User
Dakota Digital Odyssey Series I Digital Gauges ODY-03-1-S-B - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Here's another option I was looking at. There's a section on the left of the gauges where I could cut out a rectangular slot and mount this behind it.
http://zada-tech.com/products/single...cd-based-gauge
Last edited by 35Sport; 11-11-2015 at 09:47 PM.
11-11-2015, 10:04 PM
#49
I was looking at something rectangular. I found this that looks like it may go well with my sport aluminum trim. Otherwise I could wrap it in Carbon Fiber.
Dakota Digital Odyssey Series I Digital Gauges ODY-03-1-S-B - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Here's another option I was looking at. There's a section on the left of the gauges where I could cut out a rectangular slot and mount this behind it.
Oil Temperature LCD Based Gauge
Dakota Digital Odyssey Series I Digital Gauges ODY-03-1-S-B - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Here's another option I was looking at. There's a section on the left of the gauges where I could cut out a rectangular slot and mount this behind it.
Oil Temperature LCD Based Gauge
Looks much better than that LED bar version in the second link.If that pic is of your interior that spot just above the flip-up ashtray might have enough room if you aren't afraid to cut into your G. That piece is simple to remove so you could at least check it out.
11-11-2015, 10:21 PM
#50
How does this one work with the harness? It's confusing since you can't see all the wires and they really don't look long enough.
11-12-2015, 03:01 AM
#51
I raised this question in Black Betty's thread about the external oil seep. In his case there was no external leak, leak was only internal in the timing chain cover. That's why the only ways to tell is either do an oil pressure test, or the CEL is on.
My car has some black oil gunk at that exact spot. It's been there for a while. I have been checking my oil pressure whenever I do an oil change, so far it's been OK *knock on wood*.
My car has some black oil gunk at that exact spot. It's been there for a while. I have been checking my oil pressure whenever I do an oil change, so far it's been OK *knock on wood*.
I got my oil pressure gauge installed a little while back it's helped so much for my peace of mind. I've learned what pressures are normal depending on driving style. it's become habit now to watch at every stop light. For my gauge I chose a defi gauge. I mounted up on my steering column it's definitely great location for constant monitoring.
11-12-2015, 09:16 PM
#53
M20 x 1 5 10AN Inlet Outlet Oil Filter Cooler Relocate Adapter Sandwich Plate BL | eBay
I think I found a good way to mount my gauge. I'm going to fabricate a mounting tap that will fit snug into the key fob pocket in the left underdash area, and just push the gauge into it. I've never used that fob pocket and this would be a good place for it IMO. Should fit snug, be out of the way, and easy to remove without having to cut or drill into any dash, trim pieces.
11-13-2015, 09:00 AM
#54
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Finally got my the job done, took to evening 4-5 hours each night (had to push the car off of the lift for the night then back on) but it's done. To be honest, it wasn't all that difficult. The hardest part was to make sure the cam gears were aligned. The valve covers don't even have to come off for the job too. I'm heading to work but later on I'll post the entire parts with part numbers that I needed and changed along with the whole job. Taking pictures was a bit of a mess as my hands were in oil a lot and as I said before, time was the major issue as I was taking up a lift at a busy shop even during the evening. But you could clearly see the gasket was blown in several spots, car runs awesome now, night and day difference.
As far as visually seeing the leak, you won't. The leak is inside the timing chain cover and the chain itself uses oil from the oil pan to lubricate itself. The leak is right behind the chain and any oil that does leak just flows down back into the oil pan, it's all sealed together so you have to take the chain cover off to see anything.
If anyone needs help or wants to know anything about this job, message me whenever, I'll gladly offer any help I can
Ill post more info later
As far as visually seeing the leak, you won't. The leak is inside the timing chain cover and the chain itself uses oil from the oil pan to lubricate itself. The leak is right behind the chain and any oil that does leak just flows down back into the oil pan, it's all sealed together so you have to take the chain cover off to see anything.
If anyone needs help or wants to know anything about this job, message me whenever, I'll gladly offer any help I can
Ill post more info later
The following 4 users liked this post by Bocian:
11-13-2015, 02:20 PM
#56
Yeah, they make them, here's a cheap ebay version
M20 x 1 5 10AN Inlet Outlet Oil Filter Cooler Relocate Adapter Sandwich Plate BL | eBay
I think I found a good way to mount my gauge. I'm going to fabricate a mounting tap that will fit snug into the key fob pocket in the left underdash area, and just push the gauge into it. I've never used that fob pocket and this would be a good place for it IMO. Should fit snug, be out of the way, and easy to remove without having to cut or drill into any dash, trim pieces.
M20 x 1 5 10AN Inlet Outlet Oil Filter Cooler Relocate Adapter Sandwich Plate BL | eBay
I think I found a good way to mount my gauge. I'm going to fabricate a mounting tap that will fit snug into the key fob pocket in the left underdash area, and just push the gauge into it. I've never used that fob pocket and this would be a good place for it IMO. Should fit snug, be out of the way, and easy to remove without having to cut or drill into any dash, trim pieces.
Drilling/cutting into the dash or trim no way!
11-13-2015, 02:33 PM
#57
Finally got my the job done, took to evening 4-5 hours each night (had to push the car off of the lift for the night then back on) but it's done. To be honest, it wasn't all that difficult. The hardest part was to make sure the cam gears were aligned. The valve covers don't even have to come off for the job too. I'm heading to work but later on I'll post the entire parts with part numbers that I needed and changed along with the whole job. Taking pictures was a bit of a mess as my hands were in oil a lot and as I said before, time was the major issue as I was taking up a lift at a busy shop even during the evening. But you could clearly see the gasket was blown in several spots, car runs awesome now, night and day difference.
As far as visually seeing the leak, you won't. The leak is inside the timing chain cover and the chain itself uses oil from the oil pan to lubricate itself. The leak is right behind the chain and any oil that does leak just flows down back into the oil pan, it's all sealed together so you have to take the chain cover off to see anything.
If anyone needs help or wants to know anything about this job, message me whenever, I'll gladly offer any help I can
Ill post more info later
As far as visually seeing the leak, you won't. The leak is inside the timing chain cover and the chain itself uses oil from the oil pan to lubricate itself. The leak is right behind the chain and any oil that does leak just flows down back into the oil pan, it's all sealed together so you have to take the chain cover off to see anything.
If anyone needs help or wants to know anything about this job, message me whenever, I'll gladly offer any help I can
Ill post more info later
I noticed in the FSM that a couple "extra" tools were needed such as one to separate the timing cover and one that goes under the motor to hold the crankshaft still, did you have the Nissan tools for that or did you use something else?
11-13-2015, 07:19 PM
#58
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Glad to hear you got it taken care of and it wasn't too bad.
I noticed in the FSM that a couple "extra" tools were needed such as one to separate the timing cover and one that goes under the motor to hold the crankshaft still, did you have the Nissan tools for that or did you use something else?
I noticed in the FSM that a couple "extra" tools were needed such as one to separate the timing cover and one that goes under the motor to hold the crankshaft still, did you have the Nissan tools for that or did you use something else?
The following users liked this post:
blnewt (11-14-2015)
11-13-2015, 08:39 PM
#59
Registered Member
Thread Starter
OK here goes my attempt at trying to explain this whole process. I'm sorry I wasn't able to take pictures but I'll try to find some online that might help everyone better understand what I'm describing.
Lets start with the obvious, drain the oil and coolant and disconnect the battery. Remove the oil pan, it covers two screws to the timing cover. Of course, you'll need to take the bottom plastic cover off under the car as well as the plastic top cover between the coolant reservoir and the bumper. Then the reservoir, the fans and all wiring that will be in your way to get to the timing cover. Ideally, taking off the bumper, headlights, bumper support and radiators would make the job a lot easier but a lot longer, we decided not to, and still had ample room to work with just the crank pulley was a bit of a PITA.
You do NOT have to take the intake manifold off nor the valve covers since its only the front timing cover that's going to be coming off and not the rear. We took the intakes off up to the throttle body but I think you could get away with just the box that holds the filter. Now all the pulleys need to come off, obviously the belt first. The belt tensioner, the idler pulleys, all off. The alternator, the power steering pump and the ac compressor also need to come off but you do NOT have to disconnect them. There is enough slack in the wires and hoses so that they all can remain connected. Using bungee cords helps keep everything out of the way. There's one bracket near the alternator and power steering pump that will also need to come off, you cant miss it once your in there, and lets face it, if you're not sure of what your doing at this point, you have no business opening the timing cover, sorry, thats the truth.
Also that part where you pour the coolant in needs to come off as well. It is attached to an extension pipe that goes under the intake manifold and has an o rings on each side. It doesn't have to come out but pulling on the coolant cap part that was attached to the timing cover, the whole pipe may come out like it did for us. No worries, it'll pop back in no problem.
Oh yea and one of the most important thing is to keep track of all the bolts and nuts. Some you can temporarily screw back in so they stay put but what you can't, make sure you keep them separate and even labeled, we used solo cups and a sharpie, worked like magic. Once you get everything off of the timing cover, the crank pulley is next. This is where having the entire from end of the car off would be a godsend but here's what we did. There is little black plastic cover right under where the flywheel is, its held on by two clips and two 10mm screws, once thats removed, there will be yet another little black cover held on by one 10mm bolt. Once thats removed, youll see the bottom of the flywheel. We used a small pry bar to hold the flywheel in place. I held it as tightly as I could and my friend used a pipe to extend the ratchet and break the crank pulley bolt free. Be extra careful not to bend or hit any of these protruding notches next to the flywheel teeth, they are supposedly very important to a sensor of some sort. Its not that difficult, just be mindful of that. Once the bolt was off, the pulley came off with just a little force with a pry bar in between the pulley and timing cover. It has a notch on one side on the inside so dont worry about messing up the tdc marks, that wont be an issue. The oil dipstick was a bit of a pain since it had a little rust holding it in, we gently tapped it out through the removed oil pan.
The timing cover is now clear. The two valve solenoid covers (it think thats what theyre called) are next. All bolts are the same so no issue there. They were a little sticky but not too bad just pry them off a little bit at a time on each side, they come off rather easily as theyre set on two or three guide pins. set them aside along with the bolts. timing cover is next, two different sets of bolts, one smaller one larger, remember where they go but all smaller ones are the same and all the larger ones are the same as well. Dont forget the two bolts hidden by the oil pan.
Now the problem is visible, the gasket was shot is several places, it was coming out on a few sides.
Here comes the hardest part as far as I'm concerned. we took of all the timing guides since i was replacing them but BEFORE you do that, mark exactly where the timing gears are, we used a little bit of water based paint to mark tiny dots on the timing gears and right behind them so we know where and how to set the timing chain on the gears so that everything will be aligned perfectly because once the timing chain comes off, the gears WILL move since they're under tension. I had new guides and a new chain tensioner so it was just simple removal of the old stuff. I kept the chain since theyre supposed to be good for the life of the motor but in hindsight I could have changed it.
Once the timing chain and components are removed, you have access to the gaskets in question. Remove the philips screws holding then cover and replace the gaskets. The one screw thats a little behind the timing gear is tricky but very doable.
Clean everything thoroughly, we used about 8 cans of brake parts cleaner, works wonder. Also we used a dremel like pneumatic tool with a round metal bristle end as well as several razor blades to get all of the old gaskets and rtv off.
Now set the timing gears to the marked positions and reapply the chain. This is a bit of a pain in the *** but we did it with all the guides on and using the tension side guide to keep the chain in place. One person will not do this easily if at all. Two hands are needed. Once the chain is tight and the timing gears are correct, bolt on the tensioner and release the pin to engage the tension. Now its time to reassemble everything in reverse order.
My mind is a bit fried right now, Ill post later what I replaced and the part numbers.
Sorry I'm not that adept at explaining things but I'm sure I'll be editing this and adding things.
I need a beer
to be continued...
Lets start with the obvious, drain the oil and coolant and disconnect the battery. Remove the oil pan, it covers two screws to the timing cover. Of course, you'll need to take the bottom plastic cover off under the car as well as the plastic top cover between the coolant reservoir and the bumper. Then the reservoir, the fans and all wiring that will be in your way to get to the timing cover. Ideally, taking off the bumper, headlights, bumper support and radiators would make the job a lot easier but a lot longer, we decided not to, and still had ample room to work with just the crank pulley was a bit of a PITA.
You do NOT have to take the intake manifold off nor the valve covers since its only the front timing cover that's going to be coming off and not the rear. We took the intakes off up to the throttle body but I think you could get away with just the box that holds the filter. Now all the pulleys need to come off, obviously the belt first. The belt tensioner, the idler pulleys, all off. The alternator, the power steering pump and the ac compressor also need to come off but you do NOT have to disconnect them. There is enough slack in the wires and hoses so that they all can remain connected. Using bungee cords helps keep everything out of the way. There's one bracket near the alternator and power steering pump that will also need to come off, you cant miss it once your in there, and lets face it, if you're not sure of what your doing at this point, you have no business opening the timing cover, sorry, thats the truth.
Also that part where you pour the coolant in needs to come off as well. It is attached to an extension pipe that goes under the intake manifold and has an o rings on each side. It doesn't have to come out but pulling on the coolant cap part that was attached to the timing cover, the whole pipe may come out like it did for us. No worries, it'll pop back in no problem.
Oh yea and one of the most important thing is to keep track of all the bolts and nuts. Some you can temporarily screw back in so they stay put but what you can't, make sure you keep them separate and even labeled, we used solo cups and a sharpie, worked like magic. Once you get everything off of the timing cover, the crank pulley is next. This is where having the entire from end of the car off would be a godsend but here's what we did. There is little black plastic cover right under where the flywheel is, its held on by two clips and two 10mm screws, once thats removed, there will be yet another little black cover held on by one 10mm bolt. Once thats removed, youll see the bottom of the flywheel. We used a small pry bar to hold the flywheel in place. I held it as tightly as I could and my friend used a pipe to extend the ratchet and break the crank pulley bolt free. Be extra careful not to bend or hit any of these protruding notches next to the flywheel teeth, they are supposedly very important to a sensor of some sort. Its not that difficult, just be mindful of that. Once the bolt was off, the pulley came off with just a little force with a pry bar in between the pulley and timing cover. It has a notch on one side on the inside so dont worry about messing up the tdc marks, that wont be an issue. The oil dipstick was a bit of a pain since it had a little rust holding it in, we gently tapped it out through the removed oil pan.
The timing cover is now clear. The two valve solenoid covers (it think thats what theyre called) are next. All bolts are the same so no issue there. They were a little sticky but not too bad just pry them off a little bit at a time on each side, they come off rather easily as theyre set on two or three guide pins. set them aside along with the bolts. timing cover is next, two different sets of bolts, one smaller one larger, remember where they go but all smaller ones are the same and all the larger ones are the same as well. Dont forget the two bolts hidden by the oil pan.
Now the problem is visible, the gasket was shot is several places, it was coming out on a few sides.
Here comes the hardest part as far as I'm concerned. we took of all the timing guides since i was replacing them but BEFORE you do that, mark exactly where the timing gears are, we used a little bit of water based paint to mark tiny dots on the timing gears and right behind them so we know where and how to set the timing chain on the gears so that everything will be aligned perfectly because once the timing chain comes off, the gears WILL move since they're under tension. I had new guides and a new chain tensioner so it was just simple removal of the old stuff. I kept the chain since theyre supposed to be good for the life of the motor but in hindsight I could have changed it.
Once the timing chain and components are removed, you have access to the gaskets in question. Remove the philips screws holding then cover and replace the gaskets. The one screw thats a little behind the timing gear is tricky but very doable.
Clean everything thoroughly, we used about 8 cans of brake parts cleaner, works wonder. Also we used a dremel like pneumatic tool with a round metal bristle end as well as several razor blades to get all of the old gaskets and rtv off.
Now set the timing gears to the marked positions and reapply the chain. This is a bit of a pain in the *** but we did it with all the guides on and using the tension side guide to keep the chain in place. One person will not do this easily if at all. Two hands are needed. Once the chain is tight and the timing gears are correct, bolt on the tensioner and release the pin to engage the tension. Now its time to reassemble everything in reverse order.
My mind is a bit fried right now, Ill post later what I replaced and the part numbers.
Sorry I'm not that adept at explaining things but I'm sure I'll be editing this and adding things.
I need a beer
to be continued...
The following 4 users liked this post by Bocian:
11-15-2015, 09:41 AM
#60
Registered Member
A practice I use is putting the fasteners back in the holes/studs they came off of then you can't knock over your container. After coming up with extras or not enough back when I was a kid, I felt the need to do something different.