2013 G37x - Ester Oil vs Mobil 1 synthetic, Oil change interval
You know how there seems to be two stages of engine behavior? High rev on initial start (like 1800 rpm) and then it drops after a bit to around 1200, and then drops again to normal idle after the engine is warmed up. At least, that's how my 6MT behaves. Anyway, I always wait for the car to step down to that first ledge before driving it.
Personally after i crank it up i sit there with the door open and wait for the racket to end. You'll hear it smooth out after a little bit...
which is around 30-40 sec? Because thats all I am waiting for on my car at the moment. Not sure if I am wrong.
I have done the same on all my previous cars as well.
AFAIK, contemporary cars can be driven immediately after a cold start, but with caution that you don't go into the high revs until it's warmed up. In other words, drive it normal yet gently... don't wind it out. Should be an easy enough topic to research on your own.
You know how there seems to be two stages of engine behavior? High rev on initial start (like 1800 rpm) and then it drops after a bit to around 1200, and then drops again to normal idle after the engine is warmed up. At least, that's how my 6MT behaves. Anyway, I always wait for the car to step down to that first ledge before driving it.
You know how there seems to be two stages of engine behavior? High rev on initial start (like 1800 rpm) and then it drops after a bit to around 1200, and then drops again to normal idle after the engine is warmed up. At least, that's how my 6MT behaves. Anyway, I always wait for the car to step down to that first ledge before driving it.
no need to let it idle and warm up, that only wastes gas. just drive it gently until the car reaches operating temperature.
I've read in some other forum that having Nissan Ester Oil solves this problem, or shortens this time. Is this true? anyone have any information to share about that?
I am tempted to have Ester Oil in it and see what difference does it make.
I see a lot of people are doing 7500 intervals, I've been doing 5k on NA car and 3k on turbo car for a while now with group IV synthetic but I feel like it would be ok to extend my intervals a little more.
I'm a fan of the Nissan Ester Oil at 3750mi intervals.
Any old oil filter as they should all be about the same (won't fully clog) at such low miles.
I've let it run to 5k miles once. Engine noticeably rougher once i got past 4k miles. Also did my first UOA and the numbers looked a little worst than I would expect.
Currently 16.5k on engine
Any old oil filter as they should all be about the same (won't fully clog) at such low miles.
I've let it run to 5k miles once. Engine noticeably rougher once i got past 4k miles. Also did my first UOA and the numbers looked a little worst than I would expect.
Currently 16.5k on engine
I'm a fan of the Nissan Ester Oil at 3750mi intervals.
Any old oil filter as they should all be about the same (won't fully clog) at such low miles.
I've let it run to 5k miles once. Engine noticeably rougher once i got past 4k miles. Also did my first UOA and the numbers looked a little worst than I would expect.
Currently 16.5k on engine
Any old oil filter as they should all be about the same (won't fully clog) at such low miles.
I've let it run to 5k miles once. Engine noticeably rougher once i got past 4k miles. Also did my first UOA and the numbers looked a little worst than I would expect.
Currently 16.5k on engine

Anyone else with suggestions on this topic?
I've only had one UOA so let's see if the numbers are better after a 3.75k mi interval. It's also possible that the numbers are remnants of metals left behind after break-in (it's still a rather young engine). It's hard to be conclusive from just one UOA.
One thing is definite though: change Nissan Ester Oil at the 3750mi interval as it's noticeably rougher past 4k mi.
I also habitually wring out the engine when warm. It's actually better for the VVEL and engine to get to all points of its engineered actuation (if you never hit redline, you never fully lift the valves, etc.)
The magical oil also has friction modifiers properly matched to the DLCoating, allowing for spirited use of the engine safely.
One thing is definite though: change Nissan Ester Oil at the 3750mi interval as it's noticeably rougher past 4k mi.
I also habitually wring out the engine when warm. It's actually better for the VVEL and engine to get to all points of its engineered actuation (if you never hit redline, you never fully lift the valves, etc.)
The magical oil also has friction modifiers properly matched to the DLCoating, allowing for spirited use of the engine safely.
I use Mobile 1 5w30 full synthetic and will change my oil every 5k miles. 98% of my driving is stop and go, red light to red light.
I did 48 out of 53 oil changes on my previous 06 G35 6 sp manual.
I purchased all of my oil here (Pep Boys)whenever it was on sale.
Old photo

I no longer change my own oil and just pay the dealer to do it every 3750 to 4k miles,
I get the free car wash and snacks for the $48.00
I see no reason to pay for expensive oil.
Telcoman
I purchased all of my oil here (Pep Boys)whenever it was on sale.
Old photo

I no longer change my own oil and just pay the dealer to do it every 3750 to 4k miles,
I get the free car wash and snacks for the $48.00
I see no reason to pay for expensive oil.
Telcoman






