New guy here

I am looking for a D.I.Y for replacing the open differential with a VLSD. Mainly looking for torque specs for: drive shaft to the diff., drive axles to the diff., and the back housing plate on the diff.

Does anyone know these or where i can find them? I've looked everywhere and even called the dealer. they wont give them to me...

Thanks!

 

Download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year.

 

I hope you know what you are doing, those diffs are super heavy and you will need to have a transmission jack and a lot of elbow grease. Also don't get one with too many miles on them as at 100k VLSD is basically useless.

 

First I've heard of this, please elaborate.

 

From what I understand, once VLSD gets some miles on it, it will gradually turn into an open diff. 60k miles is what they are usually good for. 100k if they were regularly maintained and fluids changed frequently.

 

Thanks BB.

I've found all of them, but where the main drive shaft connects to the diff. Still looking for that one. I picked one up with 20k, so i should be good for a bit. Can't be any worse than the one I have. My understanding is that the fluid in there loses its viscosity over time/from hard driving and then they slowly lose their ability to engage.

Also, I'm pretty sure you can open up the diff and replace those packs once they wear out. Pretty sure I saw a company online selling replacements. Not sure how many diff will be around with low miles by time i hit 80-100K.

Any tips or things to watch out for when replacing diff with a VLSD?

Thanks!

 

I remember reading something about cruise control sometimes not functioning correctly. No idea why.

 

 

what is the reason for matching marks on both drive shaft and drive axles where it connects to the diff? since i am replacing the diff there is no way for me to really do this. what is the reason behind making sure you bolt it back up the same way as you took it off?

 

I've read this happening when you do a gear ratio swap and replace the diff with the 6mt diff. I didn't think it would affect the vlsd swap, but I admit, my knowledge of these things is lacking.

 

Unless I'm wrong, there are no serviceable parts in the VLSD, it's a sealed unit and has it's own fluid inside. Changing the diff oil doesn't affect the innards of the VLSD, that's for the ring and pinion of the axle.

 

Yes silicone in VLSD is sealed and cannot be changed. I assumed that changing diff oil every 30k extends diff lifespan but I could be wrong. Either way, it's easy to see if your VLSD turned into open diff by raising the car and spinning the wheels: with transmission in neutral, both wheels should spin in same direction. If they spin in opposite direction - your VLSD is toast.

 

It is true, though not necessarily at the stated mileage marks he mentioned. Obviously, it varies substantially depending on use/abuse. AS you noted later, the VLSD unit is sealed and unserivceable. What happens it that the internal silicone based lube looses it's shear properties, preventing the friction plates from "locking", and thereby allowing greater differentiation of the axles.

 

WOW! what a pain in the a$$ that swap was. every single nut was incredibly tight. assuming they use loctite from factory??

My recommendation to anyone doing it is to break all the big bolts on the diff loose before removing everything else. Might save you from getting everything taken down and then stripping the nut on the rear stud that goes into the sub frame. Thankfully i was able to get a saws all in there and cut through it (and an 1/8" of the back diff cover) since i had a spare stud from the vsld i got.

Next time it's going to my mechanic :-)

 

Can you provide some installation details? Did you go from auto to auto?
Was is a direct plug and play? Someone reported that the threads on the vLSD output shaft flanges need to be drilled out. Did you have the same experience?