So I got my car upreved and Im a little disappointed by the results unless Im misunderstanding something.

Heres the background. I have a 2009 G37X AWD Sedan. The only performance mods I have are R2C intakes and a cat back exhaust. I took it to PTuning in Virginia cause they had an AWD dyno.

Anyways the peak HP with the stock tune with mods was 236 and after the uprev was 250. Does this sound right? The tuner said that the dyno is not gonna get an accurate reading cause of the AWD kicking in, but isnt that why they have an AWD dyno? I was expecting something around 270-280 at least...

What would a 250hp equate to in crank HP?

Does the A/F look ok?

I also asked about throttle lag and shifting hesitation and the tuner said that if its in a TSB the uprev would cover it because when Infiniti releases a new ECU flash the Uprev folks incorporate these TSBs in the new ROM. Does this sound right? He also didnt want to mess with the settings to change the throttle lag or rough downshifting...oh well if hes not comfortable with doing it I guess its best he didnt.

Anyways any thoughts are appreciated!

 

That is lower than it should be. Its probably the dyno or setting in the software. I have a 09 X with CAI, cat, and catback. My peak was 278 on mustang dyno.
The APR looks likes its in the right region.

 

Fwiw, I have Takeda Cai and ark grip catback and got 295whp on a rwd g37 sedan. Numbers seem low.

 

Numbers are low buts it's the calibration they have on their machine , ( wrong)
I wouldn't worry about it . You saw a gain of 14 WHP from te tune that's all that's matters.
What gear did they use also should be done in 4th. I also have a AWD sedan haven't dyno'd it yet my my NA AWD coupe made 298 WHP

 

The AWD system robs the VQ of some power. I think my first bolt on tune was around 270AWHP so that isn't too low.

 

get rid of your r2c's, they're hurting the performance.
i don't understand why people still buying these.
what exhaust do u run may i ask, FI ?

anyways, Get a true CAI like stillen G3 or Takeda and you'll never look back!

 

Thanks for the thoughts so far guys. Think I should look around for another place to get it dynoed? Im really curious about the final numbers since these are so low.

I didnt want to cut into the front of the car. R2Cs were something simple I could do. The cbe is a custom 2.5 inch that I got made when I was deployed to Korea. It was made by a company called Jun BL. They told me they export to the states under the name Switzer and specialize in Ferraris, AMG Benzs and GT-Rs.

I'll post some pix if your intested. I love the custom tips I have on them.

 

BTW, I haven't heard the greatest things about P Tuning and their ability to get great things out of our vehicles. The only bad thing is that they're aren't many AWD dyno machines in our area.

 

Hills Garage is a very reputable shop/Uprev tuner in the Baltimore MD area. They have a RWD dyno at the shop, but their tuner also has access to an AWD dyno as well. Call up Suzanne and ask her about their AWD tuning capabilities.

http://hillsgarage.net/

 

Don't waste your time and money looking for a "hero run" generous dyno. The final number isn't as important as the difference in baseline to post-tune. Even Mustang dyno's will read differently than each other, based on the "load" they are set at.

I would go back with the stock intakes in. Drive "hard" on the way there, but give her time to cool down before throwing her back on the dyno. Then put the r2c's back on, drive hard (so the car can acclimate to changes in afr), cool down, dyno. That will let you know whether the r2c's are helping or hurting your cars performance.

Just remembered the tune, which was done with the r2c's on. If the r2c's are hurting you, then it is also limiting what can be done with the tune. You have to dyno the car without them, stock tune (still have it, right?), then you have to have the car tuned without them and dyno again. Your baseline (stock+exhaust) run could be close to, or better than, your tuned/r2c run and your "tune only" run (w/o r2c's, but with exhaust) could be the highest.

This is what happens when you don't dyno after each mod. To do it right, you would need to do the above w/ and w/o the exhaust also.

If it turns out that the r2c's are indeed "slowing you down", go with the Stillen Gen3's. Does anyone know if Stillen offers the G3's with carbon fiber tubing? This would help "protect" the air within the intakes from engine heat.

 

as others have said, its the gains that matter. the dyno numbers dont mean anything other than to compare the before and after, especially if they cant get an accurate reading. if the car feels better and sounds better I think you have accomplished your mission

14whp gains are about accurate from a tune. I got tuned with full bolt ons and the tune itself gave me 16whp. also, high flow cats and/or test pipes are big gain adders because they are the most restrictive part of the exhaust system. I used to have injen short ram intakes and when I switched to the stillen gen 3s I didn't see much of a gain, 2-3hp if I recall. then i switched from my prior HFC to ART pipes and my exhaust to the motordyne e370. previous hfc/catback was 2.25" all the way through. new set up is 2.5" most of the way through and the back end of the e370 is 2.75" (inner diamaters, btw) and then got a retune to fully accomodate the new intakes, test pipes and cbe. my dyno run was almost an exact overlay of my original set up.

moral of the story - full bolt ons & tune are pretty much comparable across the board, but the sound and quality will vary

 

You can't compare bottom line results of one dyno/car to another. What you need to pay attention to are the gains for your car on that specific dyno on that specific day. That being said, I think you should net higher numbers than what you did.