Ester Oil Information
Ester Oil Information
To the mods: I know this is a bit edge for being in the coupe section, but it is the most applicable.
As many of you know, Infiniti recommends an ester oil to cure the "VVEL tick".
As also previously discussed, the Nissan Ester oil is a conventional oil with an ester additive.
Many have discussed what the "best" oil is, and there is probably no way to conclusively make that statement. However, my personal choice is Motul 300V 5W30.
Motul 5W30 is a Group V Fully synthetic double ester (complex and polymer) oil.
Their claims are as such:
Supporting Article
Please note, that Amsoil and Redline race oils are also Group IV or V oils. My personal choice for the motul is the fact that it is readily available to me.
Please discuss, but no flames.
Technical posts are preferred, as the purpose of this post is to be informative.
I will update from time to time as additional information surfaces (I'm feeling a bit lazy to type excess amounts right now).
As many of you know, Infiniti recommends an ester oil to cure the "VVEL tick".
As also previously discussed, the Nissan Ester oil is a conventional oil with an ester additive.
Many have discussed what the "best" oil is, and there is probably no way to conclusively make that statement. However, my personal choice is Motul 300V 5W30.
Motul 5W30 is a Group V Fully synthetic double ester (complex and polymer) oil.
Their claims are as such:
The Double Ester Technology (complex esters ans polymer esters) is enhanced with high performing friction modifiers, guaranteeing:
* Extra power output.
* Higher reliability.
Above existing standars performances:
* High lubrication properties => Anti wear protection above existing standards.
* Friction modifiers => Maximum power output.
* 0% shear loss => Perfectly stable oil pressure.
* Enhanced oxidation's stability => Extremely high temperature resistance.
* Extra power output.
* Higher reliability.
Above existing standars performances:
* High lubrication properties => Anti wear protection above existing standards.
* Friction modifiers => Maximum power output.
* 0% shear loss => Perfectly stable oil pressure.
* Enhanced oxidation's stability => Extremely high temperature resistance.
Dyno Test
Some oil manufacturers and their representatives claim that using their product will result in more horsepower. These are special ultra-lightweight-viscosity racing synthetic oils that are said to reduce the parasitic drag that oil has on an engine's internal reciprocating components. We decided to put these claims to the test-an actual dynamometer test. Two of the full synthetic oils in this test make these horsepower claims on their labels: Maxima Maxum Ultra (in 0W-30 and 5W-30) and Motul Factory Line 300V (in 5W-30). We took two open-class sportbikes-a Suzuki GSX-R1000 and a Yamaha YZF-R1-and ran them with common off-the-shelf Valvoline 10W-40 automobile mineral oil to set a baseline dyno run. That oil was drained and replaced with the 0W-30 Maxum Ultra in the Suzuki, and the 5W-30 Motul 300V in the Yamaha. After about 15 miles of running to get the oil fully circulated through the engine, the bikes were then dynoed again.
Lo and behold, both the Suzuki and Yamaha posted horsepower gains. While not an earth-shattering boost in power, the gains were far beyond common run variations, and weren't restricted to the very top end. The GSX-R1000 posted an increase of 3.3 horsepower on top, with some noticeable midrange gains as well; even more interesting was that the power steadily increased for several dyno runs (as the coolant temp increased). The Yamaha responded nearly as well, with a 2.7 horsepower boost on top. It should also be noted that while riding both bikes, there was a noticeable ease in shifting with the synthetic oils compared to the automobile mineral oil. Pretty impressive for just changing oil, in our opinion.
But before you go rushing to buy these products, it should be noted that these are racing oils, and, despite manufacturer claims of viscosity retention performance identical to standard viscosity oils, are made to be changed on a much more frequent basis. You should take a close look at the Tapered Roller Shear Test that demonstrates an oil's ability to maintain viscosity over time.
Some oil manufacturers and their representatives claim that using their product will result in more horsepower. These are special ultra-lightweight-viscosity racing synthetic oils that are said to reduce the parasitic drag that oil has on an engine's internal reciprocating components. We decided to put these claims to the test-an actual dynamometer test. Two of the full synthetic oils in this test make these horsepower claims on their labels: Maxima Maxum Ultra (in 0W-30 and 5W-30) and Motul Factory Line 300V (in 5W-30). We took two open-class sportbikes-a Suzuki GSX-R1000 and a Yamaha YZF-R1-and ran them with common off-the-shelf Valvoline 10W-40 automobile mineral oil to set a baseline dyno run. That oil was drained and replaced with the 0W-30 Maxum Ultra in the Suzuki, and the 5W-30 Motul 300V in the Yamaha. After about 15 miles of running to get the oil fully circulated through the engine, the bikes were then dynoed again.
Lo and behold, both the Suzuki and Yamaha posted horsepower gains. While not an earth-shattering boost in power, the gains were far beyond common run variations, and weren't restricted to the very top end. The GSX-R1000 posted an increase of 3.3 horsepower on top, with some noticeable midrange gains as well; even more interesting was that the power steadily increased for several dyno runs (as the coolant temp increased). The Yamaha responded nearly as well, with a 2.7 horsepower boost on top. It should also be noted that while riding both bikes, there was a noticeable ease in shifting with the synthetic oils compared to the automobile mineral oil. Pretty impressive for just changing oil, in our opinion.
But before you go rushing to buy these products, it should be noted that these are racing oils, and, despite manufacturer claims of viscosity retention performance identical to standard viscosity oils, are made to be changed on a much more frequent basis. You should take a close look at the Tapered Roller Shear Test that demonstrates an oil's ability to maintain viscosity over time.
Please discuss, but no flames.
Technical posts are preferred, as the purpose of this post is to be informative.
I will update from time to time as additional information surfaces (I'm feeling a bit lazy to type excess amounts right now).
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 0
From: MD & NOVA
just word of caution, read up a lil about the Motul 300v on BITOG forums. True its a great oil, but i read that its only good for cars driven hard, and drive hard OFTEN.
I kno ppl say nothing wrong with overkill, but in this case there may be as I have read that if the car is not driven hard, driving the temps up, a residue can form from the oil.
Your doing just fine using the 8100 series from Motul. Look into it on BITOG if ur interested.
I kno ppl say nothing wrong with overkill, but in this case there may be as I have read that if the car is not driven hard, driving the temps up, a residue can form from the oil.
Your doing just fine using the 8100 series from Motul. Look into it on BITOG if ur interested.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,269
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, AL
I don't use the ester additive and I don't have the engine knock. However I do use the Mobil 1 full synthetic and my car runs great. I don't drive my car hard unless I have to. Do what you have to do but in all reality, it's what works best for your car and the way you drive.
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24
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Since I'm still deliberating a 2009 G coupe purchase, I'm a little confused. Can someone who owns a 2009 coupe tell me if the manual now includes mention of using the Infiniti (or Nissan) ester oil? Also, if the ester oil is mentioned in the manual, are the recommended oil change intervals the same as before (i.e., 3,750 for schedule 1 and 7,500 for schedule 2)?
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
Since I'm still deliberating a 2009 G coupe purchase, I'm a little confused. Can someone who owns a 2009 coupe tell me if the manual now includes mention of using the Infiniti (or Nissan) ester oil? Also, if the ester oil is mentioned in the manual, are the recommended oil change intervals the same as before (i.e., 3,750 for schedule 1 and 7,500 for schedule 2)?
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
Upsides?
300V is a racing grade oil, that is meant for those that drive hard, and drive hard often. The big benefits are smoother engine operation, (marginal) horsepower gain, and EXTREME shear resistance (maintaining high temperature viscosity, the 'second' number in the weight of the oil; a 5W30 oil is 5 at cold, and 30 when hot. Most oils will shear, or break down at extended high rpm high temperature use, and that 30 may become 25 or 20, resulting in less, and possibly inadequate protection for your engine)
Downsides?
My oil changes cost me over 100 every time.
3 bottles 300V, oil filter, UOA with Blackstone labs.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 0
From: MD & NOVA
The Nissan ester oil is recommended as a fix to a hit-or-miss engine noise issue.
Upsides?
300V is a racing grade oil, that is meant for those that drive hard, and drive hard often. The big benefits are smoother engine operation, (marginal) horsepower gain, and EXTREME shear resistance (maintaining high temperature viscosity, the 'second' number in the weight of the oil; a 5W30 oil is 5 at cold, and 30 when hot. Most oils will shear, or break down at extended high rpm high temperature use, and that 30 may become 25 or 20, resulting in less, and possibly inadequate protection for your engine)
Downsides?
My oil changes cost me over 100 every time.
3 bottles 300V, oil filter, UOA with Blackstone labs.
Upsides?
300V is a racing grade oil, that is meant for those that drive hard, and drive hard often. The big benefits are smoother engine operation, (marginal) horsepower gain, and EXTREME shear resistance (maintaining high temperature viscosity, the 'second' number in the weight of the oil; a 5W30 oil is 5 at cold, and 30 when hot. Most oils will shear, or break down at extended high rpm high temperature use, and that 30 may become 25 or 20, resulting in less, and possibly inadequate protection for your engine)
Downsides?
My oil changes cost me over 100 every time.
3 bottles 300V, oil filter, UOA with Blackstone labs.
Original concerns were that the oil would break down too quickly and that it does not have enough detergents, but that has been proven to not be the case through UOA.
It is hit-or-miss and it will exhibit itself early in your engine's life if you have it.
