Replaced rear wheel bearing and hub today
10-03-2016, 09:29 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Replaced rear wheel bearing and hub today
I have done the front. They are a little easier, because you can turn the wheel to expose the 4 17 mm bolt heads on the back of the hub..
So, remove wheel, brake caliper, set it on top of the knuckle, rear rotor off, remove cotter pin and axle bolt, which is a 32 mm or 1 1/4 socket.
There is no way to get a socket on those 4 bolts on the back of the hub. If you know how, share the secret.
The trick is to remove the axle shaft. Way less intimidating that it sounds. Six bolts with 14 mm heads. The axle spins while you are trying to unbolt it. Slide the rotor back on so that you can apply the e-brake, and problem solved. Remove 3 axle bolts. climb out, release e brake, climb under, rotate axle to expose remaining 3 bolts, climb out, apply e brake again, climb back under and remove 3 more. Release brake and slide the rotor back off. See the recurring pattern?
The axle drops down and slides out, exposing the 4 bolts at the back of the hub. You can get an impact wrench on them with a long extension. The hub comes right out. There is no ABS sensor to unbolt like there is on the left front.
When you are replacing the hub, it looks like there are 4 rectangular bolts to attach, but look closely, and you see that the pattern is asymmetrical. The top holes are slightly closer together than the bottom. If the bolts aren't going right back in, there's the culprit.
Tighten bolts, put big washer and then axle nut on, then retaining cover and cotter pin. Install rotor, caliper, tire, etc.
This is about a 45 minute job. Nothing intimidating about it except that removing the axle sounds like a big deal. It really isn't.
I hope this helps someone who is hesitant to tackle it.
An impact wrench never huts, just to speed things up.
If I were more genius-y, I would know how to change the word bearing to ad a g on the end.
So, remove wheel, brake caliper, set it on top of the knuckle, rear rotor off, remove cotter pin and axle bolt, which is a 32 mm or 1 1/4 socket.
There is no way to get a socket on those 4 bolts on the back of the hub. If you know how, share the secret.
The trick is to remove the axle shaft. Way less intimidating that it sounds. Six bolts with 14 mm heads. The axle spins while you are trying to unbolt it. Slide the rotor back on so that you can apply the e-brake, and problem solved. Remove 3 axle bolts. climb out, release e brake, climb under, rotate axle to expose remaining 3 bolts, climb out, apply e brake again, climb back under and remove 3 more. Release brake and slide the rotor back off. See the recurring pattern?
The axle drops down and slides out, exposing the 4 bolts at the back of the hub. You can get an impact wrench on them with a long extension. The hub comes right out. There is no ABS sensor to unbolt like there is on the left front.
When you are replacing the hub, it looks like there are 4 rectangular bolts to attach, but look closely, and you see that the pattern is asymmetrical. The top holes are slightly closer together than the bottom. If the bolts aren't going right back in, there's the culprit.
Tighten bolts, put big washer and then axle nut on, then retaining cover and cotter pin. Install rotor, caliper, tire, etc.
This is about a 45 minute job. Nothing intimidating about it except that removing the axle sounds like a big deal. It really isn't.
I hope this helps someone who is hesitant to tackle it.
An impact wrench never huts, just to speed things up.
If I were more genius-y, I would know how to change the word bearing to ad a g on the end.
Last edited by Leardriver; 10-05-2016 at 01:27 PM.
09-11-2019, 07:22 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
08-18-2020, 01:52 PM
#4
36mm feels too big.
Are the fronts still 32mm or same as rear?
I'm a dummy. Didn't take off the "adjusting cap". The 32mm nut is under it
Last edited by BeeW; 08-18-2020 at 07:51 PM.
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