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DIY Help: Where is Automatic Transmission Fill Plug?

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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 04:41 PM
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DIY Help: Where is Automatic Transmission Fill Plug?

Guys, I've been around cars for a while... and this is not the first time I've tried changing the ATF for a car. And yes, I did try a search!

Can anyone tell me where it is? I BELIEVE it is a 19mm HEX bolt that is between the passenger side air filter box and the engine. The bolt is also painted pink, of all colors. Can anyone confirm?

Thanks,
Z
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by zerogun
Guys, I've been around cars for a while... and this is not the first time I've tried changing the ATF for a car. And yes, I did try a search!

Can anyone tell me where it is? I BELIEVE it is a 19mm HEX bolt that is between the passenger side air filter box and the engine. The bolt is also painted pink, of all colors. Can anyone confirm?

Thanks,
Z
It would help if you identified the year/transmission of your car. 7ATs are not serviceable (sealed unit). For the 5AT, the service manual shows the drain plug on the rear right corner of the A/T oil pan and fill it through the dipstick tube (charging pipe).
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I have a G37, 2009, with the 7 speed AT.

I guess that means that I can't change my own transmission fluid then?
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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does it have a dip stick to check the fluid ? if it does than you would fill it throught that tube.....
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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7AT is a sealed unit? WTF!? You have to be able to drain the fluid somehow. Possibly in the torque converter.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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The 7AT & fluid is supposed to be a maintenance-free item. So I'd advise against changing it at all unless you are otherwise servicing the transmission or have some other reason to do this.

Nevertheless, here's an illustration from the FSM. The instructions basically say to drain it from the drain plug then refill it via the overflow plug using a rubber hose. Not sure where on the car's body it's located. Also, it warns:

When the A/T drain plug is removed, only some of the ATF is drained. Old ATF will remain in torque converter and ATF cooling system.


I'd recommend at least picking up one of these manuals if you really think you need to perform this service. But, again, better that you don't do it at all.



Edit: oh, I now see this was an old thread revived today.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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I'm trying to do this right now. like _right now_.

on a 5AT, where are you supposed to fill it? Where's this "charging pipe" or the dipstick??
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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You have to have a special tool to fill this transmission that only the dealrship has, and the procedure requires a scanner to see the A/T temp and get the level just right. How many miles do you have on the car? Why are you doing A/T fluid allready?
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 08:26 PM
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It's at 65k miles and I waived the service for 60k. I talked to a service tech aty local dealer and was instructed on how to flush it out.

There's a dipstick/fill tube behind the engine towards the passenger side.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 01:07 AM
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nope sorry no dipstick tube on the pass side thats only on the 5sp. 7sp is totally different
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 01:15 AM
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Exactly. In my previous post I stated I have a 5AT.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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To the 5AT guy.... with the hood up stand on the passenger side and look directly behind the engine and you will see the charging tube. squeeze the lever next to it and you should be able to pull the dip stick out. Again 5AT only ...
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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P.S. I have done this job already. PM me if you need details.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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I was told that only 5 qts is replaced when the 5sp ATF is changed because most of it is sitting down in the converter. There went my desire for Redline fluid in it, but oh well.
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 09:58 AM
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yes, after you do a drain and refill. you then go and disconnect the trans line coming from the radiator just before it goes into the transmission. Hang in down into a drain pan. Then start the engine. and run it at IDLE only. The pressure is low enough that it will come out in a steady stream. Once you get clean fluid or about 4-5 quarts out then shut the engine off. Reconnect the line and then run the engine up to operating temp and recheck the fluid level. You should be pretty close to the full mark, if not top it off.
This step by step job is listed in the G37 service manual that can be downloaded on this site. P.S. just make sure you get the line that returns from the radiator , not the one going out to it...
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