1st Experience with Scratch Shield and waxing
1st Experience with Scratch Shield and waxing
I’ve had my car 3 weeks to the day (yesterday) and thought it was time for an exterior detail. Vehicle is a 2011 G37x finished in Blue Slate Pearl using Infiniti’s Scratch Shield paint with sport wheels.
When I bought it, I was surprised by the paint condition at 66,500 miles and other than a handful of small rock chips the paint was nearly flawless. I did find the orange peel to be peculiar, but a thorough examination of all the panels confirmed the paint is all original. I’m not saying the paint doesn’t shine, it certainly does, but I think the clear is thicker and possibly softer than standard clear to allow it to flow. It does have more noticeable orange peel (like it needs a good wet sand) but I think I’ll get used to it especially if minor scuffs will disappear over time.
First, for the wash I love the fact that I can get into the wheels with their generous openings to really get the wheels clean. Then I used a clay bar and it seemed like normal paint, no issue. Difference was with the wax. Often, for speed and consistency, I’ll use a buffer for wax but I decided to do it by hand as the paint was in such good shape. My standby for years has been Mother’s California Gold Brazilian Carnauba wax (liquid version recently) and it was odd the way the paint felt (and sounded) like it pulled at the applicator. The was mostly felt on the top surfaces (hood, roof and trunk) and while overcast is was still 10:30 am so the sun may have been softening the clear coat. Applied and removed as normal except for the pulling effect.
Conclusion? Paint looks essentially the same as it did. Might have a touch more gloss and depth, but the paint seemed to stand tall after washing with a wax remover and going over with a clay bar. Difference certainly isn’t as noticeable as after waxing my previous Honda or Lexus, or my wife’s current MINI. Good news is possibly less upkeep other than frequent washings – I noticed this paint seems to really lose its luster when dirty.
I’ve read this finish shouldn’t be worked like a hard clear? There is a light scratch or two on the car (barely noticeable except for my OCD) – should I refrain from using a compound or lightly wet-sanding by hand?
-Eric
When I bought it, I was surprised by the paint condition at 66,500 miles and other than a handful of small rock chips the paint was nearly flawless. I did find the orange peel to be peculiar, but a thorough examination of all the panels confirmed the paint is all original. I’m not saying the paint doesn’t shine, it certainly does, but I think the clear is thicker and possibly softer than standard clear to allow it to flow. It does have more noticeable orange peel (like it needs a good wet sand) but I think I’ll get used to it especially if minor scuffs will disappear over time.
First, for the wash I love the fact that I can get into the wheels with their generous openings to really get the wheels clean. Then I used a clay bar and it seemed like normal paint, no issue. Difference was with the wax. Often, for speed and consistency, I’ll use a buffer for wax but I decided to do it by hand as the paint was in such good shape. My standby for years has been Mother’s California Gold Brazilian Carnauba wax (liquid version recently) and it was odd the way the paint felt (and sounded) like it pulled at the applicator. The was mostly felt on the top surfaces (hood, roof and trunk) and while overcast is was still 10:30 am so the sun may have been softening the clear coat. Applied and removed as normal except for the pulling effect.
Conclusion? Paint looks essentially the same as it did. Might have a touch more gloss and depth, but the paint seemed to stand tall after washing with a wax remover and going over with a clay bar. Difference certainly isn’t as noticeable as after waxing my previous Honda or Lexus, or my wife’s current MINI. Good news is possibly less upkeep other than frequent washings – I noticed this paint seems to really lose its luster when dirty.
I’ve read this finish shouldn’t be worked like a hard clear? There is a light scratch or two on the car (barely noticeable except for my OCD) – should I refrain from using a compound or lightly wet-sanding by hand?
-Eric
Many have commented on the soft clear coat and you're correct- not worth trying to gum it up by sanding. My platinum graphite G37xS also has the scratch shield paint and I love it. No swirls or other CC damage except for scratches put in by rocks or other road debris. I've used Blackfire sealant for the past eight years and have had excellent results with not much effort.
Wish I had scratchshield paint on my other Nissans (350Z, Titan and Versa)!
Wish I had scratchshield paint on my other Nissans (350Z, Titan and Versa)!
Under the hood, in the lower left rear (just in front of the passenger) there's a sticker stating the car has it. Not sure if all or certain colors but I've read they stopped using it on 2010s then started again on 2011s.
-Eric
-Eric
Last edited by llebcire; Sep 23, 2017 at 09:27 AM. Reason: Incorrect description
Thanks! I'll check my '13, but I don't recall seeing that sticker.





