I did some pretty ****ty wash jobs and there are some pretty bad swirl marks on my car, when i mean bad, i mean bad, some areas look like a chalkboard

i find cut polish works well, i was wondering what is a good way to get rid of these swirl marks without getting it detailed

im just waiting on a sunny day and then i plan to polish + apply sealant

what are some other important things to do, honestly im not looking for a long and complex list, just the basic and important ones because i dont feel like spending hours and hours

 

An abrassive polish is the only thing that will remove the scratches and swirl marks you've got. If you don't have one already, picking up an orbital polisher like a Porter Cable or UDM is recommended. Do some reading in this section, including the two stickies and all your questions will be answered.

 

As an owner of many black cars, your washing habits are 100X more important with black and you see everything.... and I mean EVERYTHING. A few things you may already be doing but I'll give the info anyways for others:

1) Use the 2 bucket system: You'd be surprised how much dirt will come off your rag or mit after washing a section. Don't put the dirt back into your soap bucket. Wash it off before returning to the soap bucket with a second bucket of just water.

2) Use grit guards: I use grit guards in both of my buckets. The dirt, grime, sand, etc will fall to the bottom where your mit will not pick it up again when it returns to the buckets.

3) Start from the top: Wash from top down. This is often overlooked. Most of the dirt on your car is likely down towards your skirts and bumpers. You don't want to be washing other panels after cleaning up these areas.

4) Use quality products: A good foaming soap is essential to lube up that dirt. Personally, I like Meguiars Gold Class and Poorboys Slick and Suds. Both sud up really well and provide good lubrication for the dirt. Also, pick up some quality microfibers for washing. I like microfiber mits for washing and microfiber waffle weaves for drying. I'm also a bit picky and do some drying with my leaf blower... My neighbors think I'm crazy though.

5) Finish it all up with a QD or Spray Wax after you finish to help protect the wax that's on there. It'll help keep your finish in good shape between wax jobs.

Let us know if you have any questions... Black can be a PITA, but it a rewarding color to have if you can and know how to take care of it.

 

wow ^ i never knew alot of that on top. thanks a lot blackjack. by any chance do u know how to buff a car? what brand i should use and steps?

 

OB is so easy to scratch!
its either u do wut blackjack just listed, or
u can be like me!!

which is CARELESS!!!
and get a detail more often!

 

Black Obsidian is no more easy to scratch than any other color of G37.......it's just that BO (and any other darker color) shows the paint imperfections much more clearly and more visible to the naked eye.. If you washed a Black Obsidian and an Ivory Pearl G37 with the exact same poor washing habits and put them under a halogen light, they would look the same.

 

Yup. I'd like to consider myself a skilled detailer. I can work some magic with my PC 7424 for sure. Check out the detailing thread 'Ask a Pro' for more information than you'd really want. I have a few favorites and it really depends on the car color. My car is black... I've been using Poorboys SSR1 as my swirl/imperfection remover, Poorboys EX-P as my polish and top it off with Poorboy's Natty's Blue Wax. I loved the results.

I've also used the Pinnacle XMT line of products and had exceptional results as well. The XMT line is formulated for machines like the PC 7424 and has great durability.

I think I'm switching to Menzerna though and will likely still top it off with the Poorboy's Natty's Blue.

Please remember though that the product of choice is totally detailer preference. And I'm a firm believer that it's really the labor behind it that makes the difference as well.

Check out the detailing threads for sure... PM me with any questions.

 

ok im gonna list my procedure tell me if im missing anything important

1 - clay + lube
2 - good wash top to bottom with grit guards, 2 bucket system + microfiber mit
3 - Poorboys EX-P polish of whole car using the machine moving no more than half inch per second
4 - apply sealant over car

for the tires + gonna scrub by hand using eagle one wheels + tire cleaner then spray tire black


you think the swirls will go away? these arnt ordinary swirls, my car looks like a ****ing chalkboard

 

I think you know it, but wash your car really well before doing the clay... You don't want to drag any grit across it and cause anymore imperfections.

I'd recommend using the Poorboys SSR1 or maybe even SSR2 before using the EX-P. The SSR is a swirl remover. Basically as Garnet mentioned above, it's an abraisive and helps to "smooth" the edges of the imperfection thus making them less noticable. Essentially it take a very very very thin cut of the clearcoat of to remove or lessen the swirls and scratches. Sound scary, but it's safe. I'd start with SSR1 and if you think you need it use the SSR2. I keep both on hand just in case. SSR2 will cause more micromarring than SSR1, but don't be alarmed with the micromarrs... Those go away with the polishing.

Just out of curiosity... What kind of machine are you using? You want to use a Random Orbital buffer... The old school buffers will burn through your CC very easily and you don't want to use it unless you are skilled. This is why we recommend and use the Porter Cable 7424.

Don't rush into doing the job. If you don't have the right tools, get them first. Years ago, I was in your same shoes and was given the same advice. No point in spending a whole day if you don't have the right product or tool.

Hope this helps.

 

it might just be a random orbital buffer, my buddy mentioned he had one but i havnt seen it yet

how do i know if it will be good or bad to use, i google imaged the one u were talking about, if its not one that looks similar should i not use it

im assuming u can tell from the type of padding used? if its a soft one than it should be ok?

 

You won't be able to tell from the pad... It's all in the way the machine "moves". When you see the machine, I'd look at it's label. If you can't tell, just google some info on the machine. The pads you use are very important. I have 3 pads that I use that I got from Lake Country. One is a cutting pad, the other used for polishing, and the last is a soft finishing pad for wax or glaze.

 

hmm, ill prob just do it by hand then

i want to add a buffing/waxing step but i dont know where
should i do it after the sealent or before

 

^ Not sure I understand your question...

 

i was wondering if i wanted to add a buffing and waxing step where i should add it

before or after i apply the sealent

 

A wax and sealant are basically the same thing in terms of what they do: PROTECTION... Wax is based on "natural" carnuba wax and a sealant if a synthetic. See this for more info on the difference.. http://www.autogeek.net/qude101.html

Some people will use a sealant but add a wax on top for additional paint depth too.

Essentially the layers should be:

1) Paint Cleaner / Swirl Remover
2) Polish
3) Sealant or Wax
4) If Sealant used, you can use a wax on top of sealent for additional wetness and paint depth.

Does that answer it?