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iTrader: (2)

As long as you're applying the HGAS to a clean surface, that routine sounds good and should help minimize adding imperfections to the paint. If your vehicle is properly protected, and you wash the paint, you should always be good to quick detail right after. Some detailers will apply the QD as the paint is still slightly wet to help minimize adding swirls to the paint when drying and to add the protection in one step.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

anson89

What do you guys use to remove tough water spots? Especially on a black car

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iTrader: (2)

Water spots can effect vehicles differently depending on a variety of factors. Sometimes the water spots are simply mineral deposits remaining on the paint. These can usually be removed by using a water and vinegar mixture on your paint. Chemical Guys makes a Water Spot Remover that is designed to water spot remains. If that doesn't work a good chemical polish, like Klasse All In One, is your next best bet. If the water spots are etched into the paint, then you need to use abrasive polishes to remove them. Always start with the least aggressive polish and work your way up to more aggressive options as needed. Polishing using a quality buffer will yield the best results. I've seen some water spots become so bad they require a wet sanding.

Each car is different than the next, so you always want to start with the least aggressive method and work your way up the ladder as needed.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

Hi Alt G

I have a new Moonlight White G37X. It sits outside and uncovered. We have two types of sap in our neighborhood - pine from Blue Spruce and willow from Plains Cottonwoods. For some reason the sap cast off has been pretty bad this fall and I wound up with some of it on my car (even though the trees belong to the neighbors and I park as far away as possible). Getting the sap off is not too hard - if it has dried I use mineral oil to soften and then (along with the unhardened sap) I remove it with 70% rubbing alcohol and/or clay bar (used with a detailing spray). That has always worked on car finished for me. But here is the rub (pun intended); there are several places in my MW that when the sap is completely removed (absolutely smooth to the touch) there is a slight "discoloration" of the MW. A slight greyish patch the same shape as the sap blob remains. Most of the sap blobs were removed without any change in MW appearance. Can anyone explain why this would happen? The clear coat appears, and feels to the touch to be intact, but it seems like the "whiteness" has disappeared from the MW. Any help would be appreciated. I have tried to photograph it but it never shows up in the picture.

p.s. Also have tried Meguiars Deep Crystal paint cleaner and finished it off with Klasse AIO. Overall it looks great - but those 3-4 spots are buggin me.

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iTrader: (2)

I am not sure the reasoning behind why it would happen, but you took the first step that I would have tried, a chemical cleaner such as Klasse AIO. Next step would be to try a light abrasive polish and work your way up to something more aggressive if needed. Do you have a buffer or would you be doing this by hand? Hopefully the sap didn't etch into the clear and remove it and discolor the paint, that would be the worse case scenario, but you should be able to feel that if that were the case. You can try something light like Meguiar's ScratchX (which you can pick up locally as well) to see if it restores the color at all.

Let me know if you're able to improve the spots at all.

Good luck!

Hi Alt G

Thanks for the reply. I can detect no marring of the surface at all and, therefore, assume the clear coat is in tact. I will give Scratch X a try (I have a bunch of it left over from my Black Sapphire Volvo). Oddly enough, the greyish area seems to be fading back to Moonlight White over time. I can no longer see the two spots on the hood and the one on the trunk is half as visible as before. Weird! Maybe it has something to do with the self healing clear coat. I will report back.

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iTrader: (2)

Thanks, looking forward to hearing about your experience. Hopefully you have an even shade again in no time!

Hi Alt G

Too cold and too much frost and precip to tell what is going on. May be able to give it closer look as the weather is supposed to improve soon.

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iTrader: (2)

I hear ya, winter is coming quickly in the northeast. Keep us posted.

Hi Alt G

Washed the Moonlight White today and it turns out those marks are completely gone. Must be something to do with the self healing feature. Now if the paint were only less susceptible to chips I would be really happy. Leased this car and don't really want to pay $400 for a clear bra. How well does the Moonlight White touch up paint work? Only 1K miles and already two chips in the front bumper and one on the hood. AND I have been able to avoid driving after they have put sand on the snowy roads. Thought I was rid of this problem when I traded my Black Sapphire Volvo (on which Dr Color Chips worked like a charm- maybe I should try that). Any way - sap discoloration problem solved!

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iTrader: (2)

I haven't touched up a self healing paint yet, but I would assume the process is similar (if not the same) to that you used with the Dr. Color Chip. Basically you want to clean out the chip prior to touching up. If bare metal is showing, put a tiny bit of primer or you can go right to the paint. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve a blob over the chip allowing for proper cure time. Once cured, wet sand it down even with the rest of the paint using at least up to 2000 grade sand paper (higher the better). Polish away any of the wet sanding marks.

Glad to hear the sap discoloration disappeared!

Let me know how you make out with the chips.

George

tonyd453

Bought a new G37X 2 months ago. Want to keep the shine and give protection to the paint. Could you recommend what to use for this. Live in the Chicago area and the winters can be hard on cars. Also how often should the process be done. The dealer wanted to put on an environmental paint shield called the protector with a 7 year warranty for $600. Took a pass on that with some advice from other forum members. Also a local detailer recommended liquid glass. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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iTrader: (2)

One of my favorite products to use for winter protection is Optimum Opti-Seal. It looks great on any color, very easy to apply and remove and is one of the most durable sealants we offer. Here's a professional's opinion on Opti-Seal.

You want to properly prep the paint prior to applying the Opti-Seal. Wash & Dry and ideally, clay the surface for optimal durability.

I'd also recommend reading over our auto detailing guide for some helpful information.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

tonyd453

Thanks for the prompt reply. will give it a try and let you know.

ozzypriest

iTrader: (2)

I have a friend buying a car that has sat in the hot southern sun for over a year. some of the black plastics are mottled and faded in various sections in in different degrees - what are the best methods / products for black plastics and vinyl restoration? All I know of is 303 and Mother's back to black (of which I've had mixed results). Thanks!