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iTrader: (2)

PM'd you his info. Thanks again!

brgurung

Hi George,

I just bought KAIO from DI. Well I was planning to use it on chrome trim (and probably, on windows?) but I think even if I use every month, it's gonna last me quite a looong time. Can you suggest where else I can use KAIO so as to maximize it's usage?

Also in 'direction to use', it says I should use damp cotton cloth to apply it. Do I need to moist my MF towel to aplly KAIO?

Thanks in advance
Bikas

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iTrader: (2)

I typically apply it with a foam applicator pad and if anything, give a mist of water on the pad to dampen it slightly. Remove with a MF towel. You can certainly apply it with a MF towel as well, I usually don't dampen it though.

Uses for Klasse AIO:
- Chrome trim
- Glass
- After polish paint prep to remove polishing oils and provide a base for your sealant to adhere to
- Works well on removing water spots on paint as well
- If you want to strip off your coats of protection without claying and polishing, and start fresh a coat of KAIO would work well here too.
- Clean / polish wheels
- Finishing touches on exhaust tips
- Interior wooden / carbon fiber trim
- Interior painted surfaces (if any)
- Clean and protect paint exposed in engine bay if you detail there

Not to mention I'm sure you could use it in places around the house or boats, etc. Try it on shower glass...

Enjoy the KAIO

jcbama85

George,

I've had great success with your products and the instructions on this site.

I do have one question. I have a 2010 G37 Sedan (which now looks awesome after prep and P21s wax) and I was wondering what is the best way to clean/protect the black section between windows of the two doors on each side of the car. It looks painted, but I wasn't sure. I've not done anything to it except wash it well.

Do I treat this as a painted surface, or more like glass?

Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

motobonsai

I got just a tiny bit of curb rash. You can hardly see it.

What can I put on it to seal it and prevent it from spreading.

I have the oem rims. I believe they are painted aluminum alloy.

The paint has peeled a bit. I just want to make sure the tiny spot doesnt get bigger.

BLKG37X

iTrader: (-1)

Hi George,

I was wondering if I can get some car cover input from you. My car is black and I'm looking for a cover that will shield it from water, dust, and bird droppings, but it has to be safe on the delicate paint that this car has. What material should the inside of the cover be made from to be completely safe on the paint... Polyethylene & Nylon or something else? What is your recommendation?

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iTrader: (2)

I'll usually go over those types of areas with a nice all in one chemical polish. Something like Klasse All In One is a great product for those types of areas as it will clean and protect in one step.

You'll probably have to look into some sort of wheel paint. I know a lot of German car owners use the Wurth paint, but I don't know how that matches up with the Infiniti wheels. You'll basically want to look for the closest match and touch it up, which may require a light wet sand to even the paint and polish after the paint cures. Make sure you avoid using any harsh chemicals in the meantime as that will expedite the expansion of the rash.

I'll be honest, I don't have much experience or knowledge on car covers. I've yet to come across a car cover that is "completely safe" for your paint. What happens is, say it's windy out, if dirt and debris get under the cover, the cover ends up flapping onto the paint creating other types of imperfections. Now this may be better than leaving it outside and getting bird droppings on it, but it's not a guarantee that it's 100% safe.

If your storing it indoors, the key is to properly clean the car prior to applying the cover, gently put the cover on and gently remove it. I believe they recommend different surfaces based on if it's indoor / outdoor / everyday / storage / etc.

Sorry I couldn't provide any more insight on this.

jcbama85

Thanks George, that's exactly what I needed to know.

Thanks!

BLKG37X

iTrader: (-1)

Thank you George. I am storing the car outside. So yes, dirt can get in underneath, I see what you are saying. Also I imagine that if I put the cover on when the car is not so clean, that too would scratch the surface. And I don't think I will be able to clean the car after every drive, so maybe getting a cover is not the best idea? I don't even know what's worse.... the small scratches that the cover may bring, or having the car always filthy (except for the very same day you wash it), and covered in bird droppings.
It's a tough one.

Thank you again for your input

djsk

Hey George,

Got a question for you about glazing.

I am planning to glaze my car and apply a sealant afterwards. Would you recommend that I clay my car before my glaze even if i do not plan on polishing it?

Also, i have a black G and i use chemical guys jetseal 109 sealant. Which glaze would properly bond to the sealant that i use and work well for a black car? And after i put on the glaze, do i need to let it settle for 24 hours before applying my sealant? Or can i put the sealant on right away?

Also, any update on the free shipping coupon? You said there will be one out mid May.

Thanks again George.

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iTrader: (2)

Glad that helped.

If you can avoid parking under trees or under wires where birds hang out, etc. I personally would go without the cover. I'd consider a cover if I was putting my car in storage and really prepped it prior and only was taking it off once or twice a season. If your going to put the cover on every day, your going to end up swirling the car over time pretty easily.

If the paint is already in good shape, you probably don't need to clay. When you clay you can induce some marring that needs to be polished to remove, so many people save the claying process to when they plan on polishing. If your paint is rough to the touch with lots of contamination I'd recommend claying it prior but it all depends on the condition.

I'd highly recommend the Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze under Jet Seal 109. This is an acrylic based glaze that will help Jet Seal bond to the paint properly. It doesn't hide much in terms of imperfections but it does add a nice level of depth and gloss to the paint. After you apply and remove the glaze, you can go right to adding the sealant.

Newsletter goes out on the 17th and there will be a % off + free shipping code in there. Soon!

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

George

BLKG37X

iTrader: (-1)

You're right George, the cover is probably not the best idea, because i already have lots of swirls on the car because the dealership "detailed" it for me and did a very poor job.

Is it a good idea to buff it out at a reputable place? How many times a year can the car be safely buffed out using the compound and the other stuff the pros use? I heard you cannot do it too many times without ruining the paint job.
I don't wish to make it worse.

Thanks in advace for your advice

LightsOut

iTrader: (7)

might be a dumb question...

I have a front loader washer and I have to wash my micro fiber towels. Is it safe to use the micro fiber cleaning detergent in my washers dispenser?


Also, I've built up some swirls from wind and debris, while doing my long drives to the desert. Now I need a swirl remover and light scratch remover for my Black sedan.
What would you recommend? stuff that I can detail by hand, I dont have a buffer.

PeTeToTe

iTrader: (1)

The top of my bro's car faded, but looks good when wet, is there something he could use on it to bring it back? or it a lost cause?

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iTrader: (2)

Key words at a reputable place. You're much better off doing some research online about who may be good in your area. You can check our Find-a-Detailer Listing for some top pros in some areas, many worth traveling a distance to, but other places could be to post up on the regional section of autopia.org .

I usually recommend going with a full correction, then trying to maintain the car properly thru proper washing and drying techniques throughout the year. If you can do that, not many swirls and imperfections will form and you can get away with a simple light polish once or twice a year. You want to avoid compounding multiple times a year or year after year. Light to medium buffs are relatively safe if the person knows what they are doing a couple times a year. Keep us posted how the detail turns out.

There shouldn't be a problem putting the detergent in the dispenser, I know some guys that do that.

Polishing by hand may not yield the results you are looking for. Your best bet would be to pick up a Polishing Pal, some 4" white polishing pads and some Meguiar's M205 polish. This is a light combination that will remove some lighter imperfections without much risk of damaging your paint. Going too aggressive with a heavier cutting polish by hand can often make the paint worse when used improperly. Reason being you're grinding in larger abrasives that you aren't fully breaking down. M205 is a great polish to go by hand though.

If there's clear coat failure causing the fading, it could be a lost cause. What I'd do is start with a chemical polish, something like Klasse All In One, and see if that helps at all. The next step would be to use a light abrasive polish to "exfoliate" the oxidized / damaged clear coat and to help level the paint. I'd recommend the same combo above with the M205 for that. If you have access to a quality buffer, even better.

Let me know if that helps at all.