I was told by the guys I got to detail my car that a big problem with paint fade and swirls is washing my car too much. Is that true?

 

i'd say that's true...and of course how u wash ur car too

 

Personally, I'm not a fan of the CCD. When used correctly with the proper amount of dust, it can be effective, but many people use the product when the paint is too contaminated causing swirls and other imperfections. My approach is to use an Ultra Plush Microfiber Towel and a quality, lubricating, cleaner, such as Poorboy's Spray & Wipe. This method provides lubrication between your clear coat and the contamination and has a lesser risk of marring the finish. You can also clean a slightly heavier build up of dusting with this method than you can with the CCD.

Paint fad and swirling is due to improper washing and drying techniques and products. When used properly, there is very little to worry about as far as adding imperfections to the paint. If you are seeing a lot of imperfections, you may want to revisit the way you are washing and drying as well as your product and tool selection you are using.

Here's our guide to follow to properly wash and dry your vehicle.

If you have any questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

Not sure if this has been asked before, but how do you guys clean the wheel wells? Nothing worse then having a clean car but unsightly wheel wells. Are there spray on products that are safe to use or is it just good old fashioned elbow grease?

 

i don't think you want to scrub the wheel wells. aren't they some type of felt-like material? i just give it a good hosing when washing.

 

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This is how I do it too. If you maintain your vehicle on a regular basis the pressure from the hose should be able to clean them pretty good. If that isn't doing the trick, I'll spray some all purpose cleaner or a degreaser, let it dwell for a minute or so and hose it off. On real neglected wheel wells, you can opt to remove the wheels and really go to town with some elbow grease, degreaser and a brush.

Hope this helps.

George

 

How do oyu recomend cleaning the engine compartment?

 

if you keep up with it, 303 Aerospace is all you really need.

 

1. When performing an engine detail, we recommend the engine be a little warm. Turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too hot for an engine detail.

2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (in newer vehicles, there is very little to cover) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil, saran wrap or something similar. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.

3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray an all purpose degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 2 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.

4. Spray down everything to remove the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if avoidable. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or agitated with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.

5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean and the metals. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the underside of the hood that has been flipped up.

6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil or saran wrap and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 1 – 2 minutes to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.

7. Now I recommend treating all the vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood.

8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.

Yep, staying on top of your engine bay means you probably do not need a degreaser, but can get away with a quick detailer and some 303 Aerospace Protectant to follow up with.

George

 

Ok I am making a wish list for my wife to get me for Christmas. I just got my black G37S on thursday and would like to get tstarted looking after the detailing myself. I am getting it done locally by a very good detailer here in Edmonton. But will like to continue this on my own. Could you recamend a starter kit? For both in and out. Hope this might help others to do the same too.

 

shumby, great idea. This would be what I would consider a great package for properly maintaining your vehicle after a professional has detailed it.

Washing & Drying - This is where you want to invest the most time and money into, as this is the step where a majority of imperfections occur.

• Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds - This is a high sudsing, high lubricity shampoo that has gentle cleaners in order to keep the most sealant or wax on your paint as possible.
• Sheepskin Wash Mitts or Lake Country Ulti-Mit - Both of these wash mitts are paint safe. Sheepskin wash mitts are the absolute safest mitt available, however their durability can vary down to as little as 5 washes or so. One snag on an emblem, panel corner, etc. can easily create a rip in the mitt. Once there is a hole in the natural fibers of the mitt, it is downhill from there. The Lake Country Ulti-Mit is a much more durable option, and is paint safe when used properly. You do not want to grind this mitt into the paint, but let the mitt glide over the surface and you want to rinse it in your rinse bucket frequently.
• Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towels - These towels are the safest possible option for your paint. The waffle texture allows you to pull contamination away from the surface. Our towels are tagless, have silk borders, and are super absorbent. In conjunction with the sheeting method before drying with this towel, most of the times 1 towel can get the job done. I usually recommend 2 waffle weaves in case you happen to drop one or one is still damp or unclean from the last wash.
• Grit Guard Insert - For an added piece of mind and some additional insurance for your paint, it is essential for your rinse bucket. The grid on the top of the insert allows you to glide your mitt across the surface, releasing contamination from your mitt. The Grit Guard Insert also tries to keep contamination on the bottom of the rinse bucket.

Protection
Your detailer will more than likely apply a coat of sealant for durable protection. You can follow up with additional coats of sealant as it begins to fade. Most sealants typically last 3 - 6 months. Poorboy's makes a couple of great sealants that are tough to beat bang for the buck. They are the Poorboy's EX-P and Poorboy's EX Sealant. The difference between the two is that the EX formula has a touch of carnauba wax in it, giving a deeper wetter look than the EX-P. EX-P is a pure sealant with no carnauba so you get slightly longer durability (4 months vs. 3 - 3.5 months) with the EX-P and a slightly deeper look to the EX. Another popular sealant is Menzerna FMJ. This sealant is easier to apply and remove, and leaves behind one of the slickest surfaces from any sealant I've tried. FMJ typically lasts around 4 - 6 months.

Consider topping the detailers coat of protection (whether it is a sealant or a wax) or your sealant with a wax once a month. This will ensure you have proper protection on your vehicle and the carnauba wax will enhance the depth and gloss. For black paint, some great options are Natty's Blue Paste Wax or P21S Concours Carnauba Wax. P21S is easier to apply and remove and comes with its own applicator pad that conveniently stores under the lid. Both yield around 4 - 6 weeks of protection. Pinnacle Souveran yields the deepest and wettest look on dark colored vehicles and is easy to apply and remove. The downside is the durability usually tops out around 4 weeks and the price is significantly higher than the other waxes mentioned.

I didn't include clay bar and polish recommendations under the assumption that your detailer will tackle those steps. If you'd like me to recommend those products to you just say the word.

Interior Care:

• Poorboy's World Leather Stuff - This is an excellent maintenance product for your new leather. Leather Stuff will clean and condition, as well as UV protect your seats all in one step. By keeping up with this on a regular basis you will have your leather looking and feeling soft and supple for years to come. It also has a great leather scent to it.
• 303 Aerospace Protectant - This product would be used on your vinyl, rubber, and plastic to provide a bold matte finish and UV protection. This product is perfect for your dash, center console and doors. It also works great on exterior trim and as an engine bay dressing. Some detailers use it as a low gloss tire dressing as well. Very versatile product.
• 303 High Tech Fabric Guard - Prevent stains and fading of your carpets and upholstery.
• Stoner Invisible Glass - A foam based glass cleaner that leaves behind clean, streak free glass. Best of all it is safe on tinted windows.

Wheel and Tire Care:
I keep my wheel and tire care simple with 2 products.
Poorboy's Wheel Sealant to protect my wheels. This helps prevent brake dust from adhering to your wheels and makes future cleaning a breeze. Apply up to 3 thin coats for easy wheel cleaning for up to 3 - 4 months. I follow up the Wheel Sealant with Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright tire dressing. This is a water based tire dressing that gets absorbed into your tires and actually nourishes the tires. Expect no sling from Bold 'n Bright when applied properly.

These would be what I would consider some essentials to properly care for your vehicle. If you notice, the theme of products used was protect, protect, protect. It's much easier to prevent problems than it is to correct problems.

If you'd like me to go more in depth with anything or have any questions on anything, please let me know.

George

 

I was going to try a different brand sealant, but the Menzerna FMJ looks like a better choice. Is there anything I should use prior to applying FMJ?

I have a Black G37. I did not have the dealer wash it when I picked it up. I have washed it with Dawn using a sheepskin wash mitt, two bucket method and clayed. It's been sitting in the garage ever since and waiting for the correct glaze (needed on a new car?), sealant, and wax. From my inspection I do not see any "swirls" or any marks on the paint.

>>Detailed Image<< I've seen your list of products for an "ideal process would be this assuming time and money wasn't an issue", but can you recommend a process where I don't feel like I'm going to prep the car for a show; a list for a daily driver who wants the car show look?

edits: grammar

 

Good questions Romeo Xray. You already did the hard work if you washed and clayed the vehicle. If swirls are not present, then you do not have to further prep the vehicle. I'd skip the glaze as well, since the main purpose of the glaze is to fill in imperfections (such as swirls, hologramming, etc.). Consider a quick detailer prior to applying the sealant in case you accumulated a light layer of dust while the vehicle is sitting. A good option would be Poorboy's Spray & Wipe if you are looking for a new one. Then you can go right to the Menzerna FMJ. Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket has a great look to it and leaves behind a real slick surface. Ideally, wait 24 hours for the sealant to properly cure then apply the wax the following day or just wait until the next time you wash your vehicle before topping your paint with the wax.

Maintenance afterwards is pretty straight forward, wash every 2 weeks or sooner. Re-wax once a month. Reapply your sealant every 3 - 4 months to ensure full coverage year round. Inspect your paint to see if you can benefit from clay and / or polish every 6 - 8 months (usually the second time you re-apply your sealant).

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

George; I'm ordering the items from your store.

Will two coats of FMJ make a difference (with each coat curing for 24 hours)?

I'm going to top it with Pinnacle Souveran. Does that sound like a killer combo for a black car?

Thank you.

 

Time permitting, I always recommend two coats of sealant for a couple of reasons:

• To ensure that you have complete coverage on the vehicle.
• To achieve maximum durability for your sealant
• To achieve a better finish

Definitely! That combination is tough to beat. Pinnacle Souveran really enhances darker colored vehicles and creates that dripping wet effect. The finish is truly amazing. You'll have to snap some pictures of your hard work once you are done.

Looking forward to hearing about your results.

George