Mobile-Detailing in the GTA
06-28-2006, 04:05 PM
#166
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OMG Kevin, excellent write up and knowledge share. I have question about applying wax over a sealant convered in the quote below. Just want to confirm this can be done and the procedure for wax reapplication means you need to strip the wax and sealant and reapply both from scratch.
thanks
Deane
thanks
Deane
Now, you can combine them, you can put a wax over a sealant and get the best of both worlds; however your wax will still fade after 4-6 weeks. You will still have the protection of the sealant but will need to re-apply wax for the "wax look", also, you can not apply a wax over a sealant, so when it comes time to re-apply it all you will need to start from scratch (no big deal).
06-28-2006, 04:27 PM
#167
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I can answer that, no need to strip the wax, just reapply it every 4-6 weeks
Now my question to kevin is for the sealant should i do it by hand or with the black pad. I have the FMJ stuff.
thanks
Now my question to kevin is for the sealant should i do it by hand or with the black pad. I have the FMJ stuff.
thanks
06-29-2006, 02:41 PM
#168
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hey guys; couple things. one, i typo'd above, as ian pointed out a wax can go over a sealant, but not the other way around. waxes can be reapplied over sealants as much as you want, but you need to strip before a sealant is reapplied. i apply sealants with my black pad, same with liquid waxes.
ALSO, \i am out of town until the 4th so i have limited access and cant detail cars
i will pm you all when i get back
ALSO, \i am out of town until the 4th so i have limited access and cant detail cars
i will pm you all when i get back
07-05-2006, 08:08 PM
#169
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Hey guys; I am back.
I got a couple PM's while I was gone about appointments. I am booked through Tuesday of next week right now, after that I am free.
Also, I got a few PMs about fixing major scratches (as in ones that are through the paint), awhile ago I put a write-up on Autopia about how I fill in chips/scratches, then wetsand and polish so they disappear. Here is a copy and paste (Colin please add this to the faq if you have a second):
What you'll need:
1) Matched paint. A jar is best, a pen is ok. You can get it at a dealer or local automotive store.
2) A fine paint brush (medium bristles, fine tip), and/or a plastic toothpick.
3) Rubbing alcohol, some automotive wash soap, access to water.
4) Some sandpaper. I like Meg's unigrit 2000 and 3000. Non-unigrit and less than 2k at your own risk.
5) A sanding block. Both soft and hard work. I prefer soft as it is easier to manipulate and can go around curves.
6) Polishes. What kind of polishes will depend on if you're using a PC or not. I will be using a PC, but will include by-hand instructions.
Onward.
First make sure the car has been washed, what wash you use is up to you. How you wash it is also up to you but remember, two buckets and a quality mitt (or 3).
Second, make sure the area you're repairing is clean. By clean I mean no sealants, waxes, nothing. To do this you'll need to a) use a cleaner polish or b) (my choice), wipe with ISA:water. What's that? It's rubbing alcohol (the regular 70% kind) mixed 50:50 in a spray bottle with water. Spray the area thoroughly and wipe. Do this twice. You want *no* dirt, wax, anything in the chip.
Alright, so filling in the chip/scratch. Two ways to do this, first I will go with my choice for chips and that's using a plastic toothpick. Before I go on, there are good instructions on how to do this here: http://autopia-carcare.com/inf-paint-polish-clinic.html. I basically follow the same process. Dip the toothpick into the paint about half way up, then touch the tip of the pick to the center of the chip and capillary action will pull the paint into the chip. It will take a couple passes to level it out so let the paint dry at least 4 hours in between and be patient.
The other way is good too, but less accurate. It's good for scratches that are larger than chips and would take too long to fill in via the toothpick method. Put a little paint on to your brush (very little, immerse maybe 1/4 of the brushes tip), and touch the tip to the center of the scratch. You'll see the paint pull into the scratch. Depending on the size begin to move the brush in one direction through the scratch. Repeat this every 4 hours until you're level.
Whether or not you add a layer of clear is up to you. I normally do as I find it makes the paint match better after sanding/polishing.
Alright, so now you have a blob, sort of like this:
Or in the case of a scratch, like this:
No go have a beer and wait until tomorrow (or better yet, two days from now, then come back). This is important - let the paint dry or odds are you'll pop the chip right out when sanding.
The night before you said put the sandpaper in some water and let is soak overnight.
Alright so sanding time. This is the tricky part so go slow and be patient. Make sure the paper is right on the block (you'll probably have to cut it) and then spray the blob with a mixture of water and some soap (just mix some in a spray bottle), spray liberally and then start sanding. I like to sand against the blob, so the figure out which way the blob is longer and sand the opposite way. Sand very light, apply almost no pressure and try to keep the block flat. Also, sand in one direction, not back and forth. It's counter-intuitive but it helps. So swipe one way, lift, then repeat. Check your work often by wiping away with a mf towel. Before you do spray the area liberally again with the soapy water to lift up any particulates. You're done when the blob is level with the paint (as in, you can not feel it by running your finger over it gently). You'll have something that looks like this:
And you'll probably be pretty nervous, but you're ok. As long as you were patient and sanded lightly you will not have removed more than a fraction of your clear. Just be careful!
Now clean the area with your ISA:water and get ready to polish.
If you're polishing by hand I hope you used uni-grit and 2500+ paper, because otherwise you're going to be really sweaty when this is over. Assuming you did grab your polish of choice. Products I like by hand are:
Sonus SFX-2
Poorboys SSR2.5
Menzerna Intensive Polish
Meg's ScratchX
I'd start with something like Sonus SFX-2 or PB's 2.5 on a cotton applicator. Apply a dab about the size of a quarter then start to rub. You *will* need to apply pressure and move quickly. You're trying to generate heat. Repeat until the marring is gone, or 90% gone then use ScratchX to clean it up. You should have nice smooth paint, and the chip should be 100% gone. Remember, by hand is tough work and the results are often difficult to achieve - I always recommend investing in a PC, but that's just me.
By PC I like the same products (minus the ScratchX and add Optimum Compound), or if you're in a hurry SFX-1, Menzerna PG, or PB's SSR3. I like to take my time and don't normally advocate using products that are over-kill in the name of speed - as such I usually use SFX-2 or Optimum Compound via an orange LC pad (medium abrasive), and just polish as normal. Apply a couple dabs to the pad, work in at speed 3 for 20-30 seconds and apply enough pressure than the PC almost bogs down, then kick it to 6 and apply the same pressure until the polish flashes. One or two passes will take out 2500-3000 grit marks easily.
Now, if you have some marring that isn't coming out you can do one of two things. One, use a stronger combo of pad+polish, or two, sand again with a higher grit then polish. I normally do option two but Iam getting pretty decent at sanding. If you're nervous about it I'd stick with option 1.
When you're done clean again with isa:water then apply the wax/sealant on your choice and call it a day. Here are the afters of the chips/scratches I posted above.
The blob was in the circle.
Scratch was in the circle.
Cheers.
I got a couple PM's while I was gone about appointments. I am booked through Tuesday of next week right now, after that I am free.
Also, I got a few PMs about fixing major scratches (as in ones that are through the paint), awhile ago I put a write-up on Autopia about how I fill in chips/scratches, then wetsand and polish so they disappear. Here is a copy and paste (Colin please add this to the faq if you have a second):
What you'll need:
1) Matched paint. A jar is best, a pen is ok. You can get it at a dealer or local automotive store.
2) A fine paint brush (medium bristles, fine tip), and/or a plastic toothpick.
3) Rubbing alcohol, some automotive wash soap, access to water.
4) Some sandpaper. I like Meg's unigrit 2000 and 3000. Non-unigrit and less than 2k at your own risk.
5) A sanding block. Both soft and hard work. I prefer soft as it is easier to manipulate and can go around curves.
6) Polishes. What kind of polishes will depend on if you're using a PC or not. I will be using a PC, but will include by-hand instructions.
Onward.
First make sure the car has been washed, what wash you use is up to you. How you wash it is also up to you but remember, two buckets and a quality mitt (or 3).
Second, make sure the area you're repairing is clean. By clean I mean no sealants, waxes, nothing. To do this you'll need to a) use a cleaner polish or b) (my choice), wipe with ISA:water. What's that? It's rubbing alcohol (the regular 70% kind) mixed 50:50 in a spray bottle with water. Spray the area thoroughly and wipe. Do this twice. You want *no* dirt, wax, anything in the chip.
Alright, so filling in the chip/scratch. Two ways to do this, first I will go with my choice for chips and that's using a plastic toothpick. Before I go on, there are good instructions on how to do this here: http://autopia-carcare.com/inf-paint-polish-clinic.html. I basically follow the same process. Dip the toothpick into the paint about half way up, then touch the tip of the pick to the center of the chip and capillary action will pull the paint into the chip. It will take a couple passes to level it out so let the paint dry at least 4 hours in between and be patient.
The other way is good too, but less accurate. It's good for scratches that are larger than chips and would take too long to fill in via the toothpick method. Put a little paint on to your brush (very little, immerse maybe 1/4 of the brushes tip), and touch the tip to the center of the scratch. You'll see the paint pull into the scratch. Depending on the size begin to move the brush in one direction through the scratch. Repeat this every 4 hours until you're level.
Whether or not you add a layer of clear is up to you. I normally do as I find it makes the paint match better after sanding/polishing.
Alright, so now you have a blob, sort of like this:
Or in the case of a scratch, like this:
No go have a beer and wait until tomorrow (or better yet, two days from now, then come back). This is important - let the paint dry or odds are you'll pop the chip right out when sanding.
The night before you said put the sandpaper in some water and let is soak overnight.
Alright so sanding time. This is the tricky part so go slow and be patient. Make sure the paper is right on the block (you'll probably have to cut it) and then spray the blob with a mixture of water and some soap (just mix some in a spray bottle), spray liberally and then start sanding. I like to sand against the blob, so the figure out which way the blob is longer and sand the opposite way. Sand very light, apply almost no pressure and try to keep the block flat. Also, sand in one direction, not back and forth. It's counter-intuitive but it helps. So swipe one way, lift, then repeat. Check your work often by wiping away with a mf towel. Before you do spray the area liberally again with the soapy water to lift up any particulates. You're done when the blob is level with the paint (as in, you can not feel it by running your finger over it gently). You'll have something that looks like this:
And you'll probably be pretty nervous, but you're ok. As long as you were patient and sanded lightly you will not have removed more than a fraction of your clear. Just be careful!
Now clean the area with your ISA:water and get ready to polish.
If you're polishing by hand I hope you used uni-grit and 2500+ paper, because otherwise you're going to be really sweaty when this is over. Assuming you did grab your polish of choice. Products I like by hand are:
Sonus SFX-2
Poorboys SSR2.5
Menzerna Intensive Polish
Meg's ScratchX
I'd start with something like Sonus SFX-2 or PB's 2.5 on a cotton applicator. Apply a dab about the size of a quarter then start to rub. You *will* need to apply pressure and move quickly. You're trying to generate heat. Repeat until the marring is gone, or 90% gone then use ScratchX to clean it up. You should have nice smooth paint, and the chip should be 100% gone. Remember, by hand is tough work and the results are often difficult to achieve - I always recommend investing in a PC, but that's just me.
By PC I like the same products (minus the ScratchX and add Optimum Compound), or if you're in a hurry SFX-1, Menzerna PG, or PB's SSR3. I like to take my time and don't normally advocate using products that are over-kill in the name of speed - as such I usually use SFX-2 or Optimum Compound via an orange LC pad (medium abrasive), and just polish as normal. Apply a couple dabs to the pad, work in at speed 3 for 20-30 seconds and apply enough pressure than the PC almost bogs down, then kick it to 6 and apply the same pressure until the polish flashes. One or two passes will take out 2500-3000 grit marks easily.
Now, if you have some marring that isn't coming out you can do one of two things. One, use a stronger combo of pad+polish, or two, sand again with a higher grit then polish. I normally do option two but Iam getting pretty decent at sanding. If you're nervous about it I'd stick with option 1.
When you're done clean again with isa:water then apply the wax/sealant on your choice and call it a day. Here are the afters of the chips/scratches I posted above.
The blob was in the circle.
Scratch was in the circle.
Cheers.
07-05-2006, 08:08 PM
#170
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Alright, so the "spray-can" how-to. This is similar to the one above except that it's 1) tougher to do, 2) requires more patience, 3) has a much higher chance of being done wrong, 4) is *much* faster when done right, and 5) looks better.
I apologize in advance for how quickly I go through this, I've been extremely busy this week. I won't be attaching many pics, but will try to explain the best I can.
- Why do we want to use spray instead of touchup?
It's faster and when done right it looks better. Often times touchup can't tackle larger jobs like bumper chips. example:
On the left is where the bumper was hit by another car. The paint chipped off and continued to peel until this spot was created. It was about 4 inches by 8 inches, touchup brush paint would have taken days to fill it in and would have looked like a big ugly mess. Here is how I spray touchup:
What you'll need:
All the stuff from above
A spray can with the appropriate color. I like duplicolor a lot, their colors are good matches, their paint dries fast and won't shrink, it's cheap, it's available everywhere, and the sprayer is half decent. You will also need a sprayer with clear in it if you have a clear coated paint job. If you're doing a bumper make sure to get the bumper version, as it has a flex agent in it.
primer
A lot of painters tape. I like the 1 inch variety for this.
A pencil and some paper (for real)
a stiff peice of cardboard or plastic that you can throw away later, it helps if it's 6x6 or larger.
an exacto knide
If the chipped area is deep (1mm or more) the paint will not fill it alone, you will need to fill it using some automotive putty. I like 3M super red putty (yes thats the name), it's highly manipulatable, dries quickly, doesn't shrink, sands down really well, and isn't expensive. It is only for small areas though (filling maybe 1/2 inch or less tops). For more you might consider bondo or another putty.
If you're using putty - a small plastic trowel thats flexible.
So time to start.
Clean the area well and then sand it edges down with some 1500 or 200 grit. You don't want it to peel any more than it has. This might open the chip up considerably, so plan for this. The one above started about 4x8 but went up to maybe 6x10 after sanding. Make sure to sand down spots inside the chip well (so if there is some paint that didn't flake off inside the maint area of the chip, try to get rid of it).
If your putty requires a base coat of any kind do it now. 3m super red doesnt, so lets fill the chip with it. This part sounds hard but it isn't. Spread the putty in the chip started from the middle, just like repairing drywall. Use the plastic trowel to manipulate it into place. Don't worry about high spots, just make sure there are no low spots - this is important. Also, dont worry about going over the edges of the chip, you'll sand it down later. The most important part is to be at or above the level of the existing paint.
Wait overnight.
Sand the area down using 1500 or 2000 grit, make sure its very smooth and get all excess that went over the edges. If you have any low spots re-fill then and wait another day to sand. You do not want low spots.
When it's sanded the fun begins!
Get your pencil and paper and put the paper over the area and trace a rough area that you'll be painting. Try to be as precise as possible as this will determine how well it blends later. mark the center of the chip with a pen on the paper.
Cover the area with painters take, all of it and make sure you go at least 4-6 inches over the area you'll be painting (so now the painters tape is over the filled area, and 4 inches on any side). Mark the center of the chip with a pen.
Hold the paper you drew on over the area and line up the dots you marked. Now use an excacto to cut out the diagram in the paper while simultaneously cutting the painters tape (lightly, dont go all the way through).
When you're done peel the tape away over the chip. How well you did this will determine how nice the area comes out.
Prime the area using a spray on primer. I use the cardboard/plastic to follow the spray can do no overspray gets on the car. Spray lightly (really, really lightly) and keep to the directions (if the can says stay 4 inches away, do it), a run is a bad thing.
If this works wait till it dries. If you get a rud wait till it dries, sand the run and re-prime.
Get your colored spray and spray. Same deal, follow instructions and spray lightly. You'll be doing at least 2 coats, maybe 3. SPRAY LIGHTLY, if you spray too much you'll have a ridge when you pullt he tape off and it'll look like ***.
wait till it dries, remember between coats you want to wait till it dries, but not all the way, you want ti spray again when its tacky.
clear the area using the same technique. if i didnt get it through to you before, SPRAY LIGHTLY!!!!!!!!! too much = too much gloss = everyone who looks at it going "hm, what happened there?" =
I do two clear coats unless it's too glossy after one.
When it's dry remove the tape and access. 9/10 times if done right you will not be able to see the touchup, however even so I like to do the following just to blend it all in.
wetsand per the above instructions (first post)
compound per above instructions
Now, in cases where the surrounding paint is in good shape this should leave you with a 100% perfect match. In cases like the bumper above the rear bumper was kind of chipped, so it was visible if you looked for it just by virtue of it having no chips. Over time it will fade to look more like the surrounding area.
Questions? Let me know. I went through this quick so I may have missed something obvious.
I apologize in advance for how quickly I go through this, I've been extremely busy this week. I won't be attaching many pics, but will try to explain the best I can.
- Why do we want to use spray instead of touchup?
It's faster and when done right it looks better. Often times touchup can't tackle larger jobs like bumper chips. example:
On the left is where the bumper was hit by another car. The paint chipped off and continued to peel until this spot was created. It was about 4 inches by 8 inches, touchup brush paint would have taken days to fill it in and would have looked like a big ugly mess. Here is how I spray touchup:
What you'll need:
All the stuff from above
A spray can with the appropriate color. I like duplicolor a lot, their colors are good matches, their paint dries fast and won't shrink, it's cheap, it's available everywhere, and the sprayer is half decent. You will also need a sprayer with clear in it if you have a clear coated paint job. If you're doing a bumper make sure to get the bumper version, as it has a flex agent in it.
primer
A lot of painters tape. I like the 1 inch variety for this.
A pencil and some paper (for real)
a stiff peice of cardboard or plastic that you can throw away later, it helps if it's 6x6 or larger.
an exacto knide
If the chipped area is deep (1mm or more) the paint will not fill it alone, you will need to fill it using some automotive putty. I like 3M super red putty (yes thats the name), it's highly manipulatable, dries quickly, doesn't shrink, sands down really well, and isn't expensive. It is only for small areas though (filling maybe 1/2 inch or less tops). For more you might consider bondo or another putty.
If you're using putty - a small plastic trowel thats flexible.
So time to start.
Clean the area well and then sand it edges down with some 1500 or 200 grit. You don't want it to peel any more than it has. This might open the chip up considerably, so plan for this. The one above started about 4x8 but went up to maybe 6x10 after sanding. Make sure to sand down spots inside the chip well (so if there is some paint that didn't flake off inside the maint area of the chip, try to get rid of it).
If your putty requires a base coat of any kind do it now. 3m super red doesnt, so lets fill the chip with it. This part sounds hard but it isn't. Spread the putty in the chip started from the middle, just like repairing drywall. Use the plastic trowel to manipulate it into place. Don't worry about high spots, just make sure there are no low spots - this is important. Also, dont worry about going over the edges of the chip, you'll sand it down later. The most important part is to be at or above the level of the existing paint.
Wait overnight.
Sand the area down using 1500 or 2000 grit, make sure its very smooth and get all excess that went over the edges. If you have any low spots re-fill then and wait another day to sand. You do not want low spots.
When it's sanded the fun begins!
Get your pencil and paper and put the paper over the area and trace a rough area that you'll be painting. Try to be as precise as possible as this will determine how well it blends later. mark the center of the chip with a pen on the paper.
Cover the area with painters take, all of it and make sure you go at least 4-6 inches over the area you'll be painting (so now the painters tape is over the filled area, and 4 inches on any side). Mark the center of the chip with a pen.
Hold the paper you drew on over the area and line up the dots you marked. Now use an excacto to cut out the diagram in the paper while simultaneously cutting the painters tape (lightly, dont go all the way through).
When you're done peel the tape away over the chip. How well you did this will determine how nice the area comes out.
Prime the area using a spray on primer. I use the cardboard/plastic to follow the spray can do no overspray gets on the car. Spray lightly (really, really lightly) and keep to the directions (if the can says stay 4 inches away, do it), a run is a bad thing.
If this works wait till it dries. If you get a rud wait till it dries, sand the run and re-prime.
Get your colored spray and spray. Same deal, follow instructions and spray lightly. You'll be doing at least 2 coats, maybe 3. SPRAY LIGHTLY, if you spray too much you'll have a ridge when you pullt he tape off and it'll look like ***.
wait till it dries, remember between coats you want to wait till it dries, but not all the way, you want ti spray again when its tacky.
clear the area using the same technique. if i didnt get it through to you before, SPRAY LIGHTLY!!!!!!!!! too much = too much gloss = everyone who looks at it going "hm, what happened there?" =
I do two clear coats unless it's too glossy after one.
When it's dry remove the tape and access. 9/10 times if done right you will not be able to see the touchup, however even so I like to do the following just to blend it all in.
wetsand per the above instructions (first post)
compound per above instructions
Now, in cases where the surrounding paint is in good shape this should leave you with a 100% perfect match. In cases like the bumper above the rear bumper was kind of chipped, so it was visible if you looked for it just by virtue of it having no chips. Over time it will fade to look more like the surrounding area.
Questions? Let me know. I went through this quick so I may have missed something obvious.
07-10-2006, 01:40 PM
#171
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Hey guys; the rain this week caused pretty much my entire lineup of cars to re-schedule, so if you've got a garage and want a detal, now's the time.
07-10-2006, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by picus112
Hey guys; the rain this week caused pretty much my entire lineup of cars to re-schedule, so if you've got a garage and want a detal, now's the time.
how much is the airfare Toronto to Halifax?
07-10-2006, 06:17 PM
#174
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Originally Posted by Mike.C
So..... i'm located in waterloo.... and don't have a garage ...... thats means...... i can't get this awesome super duper cool deal? 
?
?
07-11-2006, 09:42 PM
#175
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Originally Posted by picus112
If you want to come to me you can!
Now thats something i want to hear!!!! LoL so i'm assuming you do have a shop? cause i was at your web site and i thought you just offered mobile service?
Ya really after looking at the pictures... just wanted to say really awesome talent you have there.
Just one quick question though... i mean.... how long does it stay the way it is after its done? Because i have some serious swirl minor scratches everwhere that I can't get rid of. After getting the whatever job is done... does the swirl marks come back up again? I was looking for a place to get it done professionally.. but couldn't trust them.... but what i'm hearing from everyone and your pictures.... your my man!
07-11-2006, 09:58 PM
#176
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I don't have a shop, but I have an underground parking garage with an extra spot that I can accomodate clients in. The only issue is you have to find something in the Queen West area to do for a few hours.
Regarding the how long it lasts thing. Here is the thing; scratches are just that, imperfections in your clear coat. Now when I polish I remove those imperfections, they are gone - not hidden, or covered, gone. How long they stay gone is completely up to how the cars paint is treated. Swirls are mostly the results of washing/drying, however if you wash/dry correctly it is easy to mitigate them.
To give you an idea, I polish my car twice a year (lightly), once in April and once in October. I could skip the October one. I never have more than super light swirls (so light most people wouldn't even see them). So in my case the "detail" lasts a year. The sealant/wax (which is the protection, not the swirl remover) lasts between 2-6 months depending on the product I use. That's what protects from UV damage, bird droppings, acid rain etc.. it doesn't protect again scratches/swirls since those are as a result of impact; so the only way to keep from re-swirling the car after the detail is to make sure you wash it right.
Earlier in this thread I outlined ways to wash a car correctly. I really strongly advise a couple things:
Use two buckets
Use more than one mitt
Never put a dirty mitt or towel on your paint, it will scratch
Use good waffleweave mf towels
If you do just those 4 things you will be way ahead of the game in terms of not re-swirling the car.
So, bottom line; assuming you wash correctly and re-seal/wax the car regularly (every 2-6 months depending on your product of choice) it will stay looking good all the time. Here is a picture of my car fresh after a wash a couple weeks ago. No polishing, no waxing, just a random wash.
Cheers.
Regarding the how long it lasts thing. Here is the thing; scratches are just that, imperfections in your clear coat. Now when I polish I remove those imperfections, they are gone - not hidden, or covered, gone. How long they stay gone is completely up to how the cars paint is treated. Swirls are mostly the results of washing/drying, however if you wash/dry correctly it is easy to mitigate them.
To give you an idea, I polish my car twice a year (lightly), once in April and once in October. I could skip the October one. I never have more than super light swirls (so light most people wouldn't even see them). So in my case the "detail" lasts a year. The sealant/wax (which is the protection, not the swirl remover) lasts between 2-6 months depending on the product I use. That's what protects from UV damage, bird droppings, acid rain etc.. it doesn't protect again scratches/swirls since those are as a result of impact; so the only way to keep from re-swirling the car after the detail is to make sure you wash it right.
Earlier in this thread I outlined ways to wash a car correctly. I really strongly advise a couple things:
Use two buckets
Use more than one mitt
Never put a dirty mitt or towel on your paint, it will scratch
Use good waffleweave mf towels
If you do just those 4 things you will be way ahead of the game in terms of not re-swirling the car.
So, bottom line; assuming you wash correctly and re-seal/wax the car regularly (every 2-6 months depending on your product of choice) it will stay looking good all the time. Here is a picture of my car fresh after a wash a couple weeks ago. No polishing, no waxing, just a random wash.
Cheers.
Last edited by picus112; 07-11-2006 at 10:02 PM.
07-13-2006, 04:44 PM
#178
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Originally Posted by picus112
I don't have a shop, but I have an underground parking garage with an extra spot that I can accomodate clients in. The only issue is you have to find something in the Queen West area to do for a few hours.
Regarding the how long it lasts thing. Here is the thing; scratches are just that, imperfections in your clear coat. Now when I polish I remove those imperfections, they are gone - not hidden, or covered, gone. How long they stay gone is completely up to how the cars paint is treated. Swirls are mostly the results of washing/drying, however if you wash/dry correctly it is easy to mitigate them.
To give you an idea, I polish my car twice a year (lightly), once in April and once in October. I could skip the October one. I never have more than super light swirls (so light most people wouldn't even see them). So in my case the "detail" lasts a year. The sealant/wax (which is the protection, not the swirl remover) lasts between 2-6 months depending on the product I use. That's what protects from UV damage, bird droppings, acid rain etc.. it doesn't protect again scratches/swirls since those are as a result of impact; so the only way to keep from re-swirling the car after the detail is to make sure you wash it right.
Earlier in this thread I outlined ways to wash a car correctly. I really strongly advise a couple things:
Use two buckets
Use more than one mitt
Never put a dirty mitt or towel on your paint, it will scratch
Use good waffleweave mf towels
If you do just those 4 things you will be way ahead of the game in terms of not re-swirling the car.
So, bottom line; assuming you wash correctly and re-seal/wax the car regularly (every 2-6 months depending on your product of choice) it will stay looking good all the time. Here is a picture of my car fresh after a wash a couple weeks ago. No polishing, no waxing, just a random wash.
Cheers.
Regarding the how long it lasts thing. Here is the thing; scratches are just that, imperfections in your clear coat. Now when I polish I remove those imperfections, they are gone - not hidden, or covered, gone. How long they stay gone is completely up to how the cars paint is treated. Swirls are mostly the results of washing/drying, however if you wash/dry correctly it is easy to mitigate them.
To give you an idea, I polish my car twice a year (lightly), once in April and once in October. I could skip the October one. I never have more than super light swirls (so light most people wouldn't even see them). So in my case the "detail" lasts a year. The sealant/wax (which is the protection, not the swirl remover) lasts between 2-6 months depending on the product I use. That's what protects from UV damage, bird droppings, acid rain etc.. it doesn't protect again scratches/swirls since those are as a result of impact; so the only way to keep from re-swirling the car after the detail is to make sure you wash it right.
Earlier in this thread I outlined ways to wash a car correctly. I really strongly advise a couple things:
Use two buckets
Use more than one mitt
Never put a dirty mitt or towel on your paint, it will scratch
Use good waffleweave mf towels
If you do just those 4 things you will be way ahead of the game in terms of not re-swirling the car.
So, bottom line; assuming you wash correctly and re-seal/wax the car regularly (every 2-6 months depending on your product of choice) it will stay looking good all the time. Here is a picture of my car fresh after a wash a couple weeks ago. No polishing, no waxing, just a random wash.
Cheers.
Hello, Kevin
how is your schedule looking for this friday and saturday? What is the address that are you located in?
Hope to hear from you soon
cheers
07-13-2006, 10:52 PM
#180
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Originally Posted by picus112
Hey Mike - I e-mailed you back. Sorry for the delay, I was out all day.
Talk to you soon!
Talk to you soon!
I jsut sent you a reply to your e-mail... sorry I was to late to check the e-mail.