G35 vs G37 in 2020
If you plan on road trips, you might want to consider only upgrading the cats, and leaving the OEM catback alone. Or upgrading the cats and getting the Tanabe axleback. You'll get a little extra grunt and a little deeper tone, but won't have to suffer the likely drone of long highway driving with the typical catback.
If you're going to use it as a long-distance hauler, why not an M37? Or find the mythical M56?
While IMHO the G37 is as reliable in stock form as any oem nissan, boost adds problems. Keep in mind that power/weight of a G37 is on par with (unmodified) BMW 335, RX8, some Audis, etc - not a slouch. Power to weight is way more important than overall power, unless you want bragging rights only. Even with a 500-HP monster, you're going to be cruising at 80mph 99% of the time. Lots of $ for 1% of the time.
Consider one of the newer Mazda6s with the 2.5 turbo - it would be a car payment and not straight cash, but reliable and hey! warranty - and very nicely appointed. If they made a manual version I'd be thinking about that as my next car.
While IMHO the G37 is as reliable in stock form as any oem nissan, boost adds problems. Keep in mind that power/weight of a G37 is on par with (unmodified) BMW 335, RX8, some Audis, etc - not a slouch. Power to weight is way more important than overall power, unless you want bragging rights only. Even with a 500-HP monster, you're going to be cruising at 80mph 99% of the time. Lots of $ for 1% of the time.
Consider one of the newer Mazda6s with the 2.5 turbo - it would be a car payment and not straight cash, but reliable and hey! warranty - and very nicely appointed. If they made a manual version I'd be thinking about that as my next car.
If you're going to use it as a long-distance hauler, why not an M37? Or find the mythical M56?
While IMHO the G37 is as reliable in stock form as any oem nissan, boost adds problems. Keep in mind that power/weight of a G37 is on par with (unmodified) BMW 335, RX8, some Audis, etc - not a slouch. Power to weight is way more important than overall power, unless you want bragging rights only. Even with a 500-HP monster, you're going to be cruising at 80mph 99% of the time. Lots of $ for 1% of the time.
Consider one of the newer Mazda6s with the 2.5 turbo - it would be a car payment and not straight cash, but reliable and hey! warranty - and very nicely appointed. If they made a manual version I'd be thinking about that as my next car.
While IMHO the G37 is as reliable in stock form as any oem nissan, boost adds problems. Keep in mind that power/weight of a G37 is on par with (unmodified) BMW 335, RX8, some Audis, etc - not a slouch. Power to weight is way more important than overall power, unless you want bragging rights only. Even with a 500-HP monster, you're going to be cruising at 80mph 99% of the time. Lots of $ for 1% of the time.
Consider one of the newer Mazda6s with the 2.5 turbo - it would be a car payment and not straight cash, but reliable and hey! warranty - and very nicely appointed. If they made a manual version I'd be thinking about that as my next car.
The MR16 turbo on the sentra and juke are really bullet proof. I have friends modifying these and getting great results. This however comes at a price.
That last clarification does explain why you want to pay cash only.
If I may ask have you thought about having two vehicles?
That last clarification does explain why you want to pay cash only.
If I may ask have you thought about having two vehicles?
If you're going to use it as a long-distance hauler, why not an M37? Or find the mythical M56?
While IMHO the G37 is as reliable in stock form as any oem nissan, boost adds problems. Keep in mind that power/weight of a G37 is on par with (unmodified) BMW 335, RX8, some Audis, etc - not a slouch. Power to weight is way more important than overall power, unless you want bragging rights only. Even with a 500-HP monster, you're going to be cruising at 80mph 99% of the time. Lots of $ for 1% of the time.
Consider one of the newer Mazda6s with the 2.5 turbo - it would be a car payment and not straight cash, but reliable and hey! warranty - and very nicely appointed. If they made a manual version I'd be thinking about that as my next car.
While IMHO the G37 is as reliable in stock form as any oem nissan, boost adds problems. Keep in mind that power/weight of a G37 is on par with (unmodified) BMW 335, RX8, some Audis, etc - not a slouch. Power to weight is way more important than overall power, unless you want bragging rights only. Even with a 500-HP monster, you're going to be cruising at 80mph 99% of the time. Lots of $ for 1% of the time.
Consider one of the newer Mazda6s with the 2.5 turbo - it would be a car payment and not straight cash, but reliable and hey! warranty - and very nicely appointed. If they made a manual version I'd be thinking about that as my next car.
I suggest you revisit this. I understand you would like to stay in the Nissan family however it's ok to go to another platform.
Plenty of financials at play here that are important to include and to tell you the truth the G is not the car you want for this.
Plenty of financials at play here that are important to include and to tell you the truth the G is not the car you want for this.
That's good to know. All I remembered about Mazda are the rotary engines. Wasn't sure if they were easy or not to work on.
I understand. This is why I came here to get some more clarity on things.
Mazda's piston powered motors are generally pretty good; even the previous 2.0 (blew mine up) and 2.3 weren't terrible. I do recall the V6 having quite a bit of issues but the Skyactive ones are great. I'm actually looking at getting a Mazda 3/6 myself as a DD.
They are overall however this RX7 will be Supra powered.
This is good to know. I've been looking at prices for thr Mazda6 and complaints as well. It's a good size vehicle and also not many complaints I can see. People mainly are complaining about going through brake pads and I see a few transmission problems but nothing in mass. Personally I want the manual 6.








