I'm pretty sure you can get Manuel if you talk to him. Who knows, maybe he's available.

 

You can buy out the car (change from lease to finance), and then sell it at cost or small profit. I did it once, and it was cheaper than any other solution.

 

If you are early into your lease, then you are probably stuck with the car for most of the remainder of the lease. As you get closer to the end of the lease, let the dealer know you want to trade it in on a newer car with MT. They may be able to work with you at that point and still give you a good deal on the next car.

When I lease a car, I put as little down as possible (sometimes zero other than first and last months payment). Most leases have GAP insurance which overs depreciation should something happen over the lease. Why give any more money up front on a lease than you have to? Yes, it lowers the payments, but use the extra down money over the lease to make the higher payment. The few dollars more of interest you pay is small and the down money will just be consumed right away instead of spread out over the lease. Remember, the car is not yours. You are just renting it.

Worst case scenario if something happens early on in the lease and you put an extra $5K down to lower your payments. When all send and done and the gap insurance kicks in, you are out your $5K. If you kept the $5K to spread out over the higher payments, you would still have most of the money when the dust settles to use on the next car.

There are lots of different approaches on leasing, but the shortest lease with the least money down at signing is the way to go for me when leasing.

 

You'll pay $11,000 grand and an extra $4,000 over your current payment? Just wait the time man, unless you have money to burn or drug money...live with your decision. In 3 years you'll want something else anyway.

 

I don't know why people don't understand that putting money down on the lease isn't bad. As long as you negotiate the lease deal WITHOUT cash in there first you are basically just paying down what you owe on the car and having a lower monthly payment.

If your lease is 50% of the value over 3 years, it doesn't matter if you put it down upfront or pay it monthly...it's the same thing.

 

Beer Magazine,

I thought I explained the "WHY" you should not quite clearly in my post.

I agree with you that if you negotiate with zero cash in, and then bring in the cash later to lower the payments, it's basically the same thing, but if you car is totaled, you are out all the cash you put in with your way right from day 1.

The gap insurance is only going to cover what's left on the car when the insurance totals it and that all goes back to the finance company, not you. You will be out any down money and of course any previous payments.

My way, you still have your cash or what's left of it. The smarter option is to keep all your cash out of the deal all the time. Use it to help make your payments lower yourself over the loan, or if you need to start on a new deal on a new car.

This is just my approach to leasing...

 

AgreeD!!!!

 

if you ever drove the previous generation 6MT G35 Coupes like me, you would know that the G37 tranny and clutch have been significantly improved and are MUCH smoother than the previous coupes. If you think this is clunky and noisy, you should have driven my 07 G35 coupe..

I have had my G37 coupe for about 43K miles now with the 6mt, and tranny and clutch are still smooth as silk..

 

I would wait for the model redesign and then trade out for a 6mt.

 

Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter whether or not you reduce the Cap cost, the more you put up front the lower the payments and the less you pay in interest. The depreciation of the car is the same whether you put $5K up front or $0. It only and only matters if you total the car. If you own more, then you loose less because the insurance company will pick up the tab. If you paid a lot up front, then you loose more because the insurance company will only pay the remaining. Let me explain it in very simple terms:

Let's say you lease a car today and your depreciation is $20000 with $0 down, your payments will be higher because you rolled the entire depreciation to the lease. Then tomorrow you total the car, the insurance company will pay the $20K and you won't loose any money.

Now, let's take the same lease, but this time you put $5K down. Your payments are lower because you now own $15K. Then tomorrow you total the car. The insurance company will only pay the remaining $15K and you are out of $5000. Of course, the insurance company will also pay the residual.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by doggyfresh102 View Post
I wish I got a Manuel, just ride it out man! I drive in tiptronic most of the time

Awesome... one of the few times I have actually started laughing to myself while reading posts on here

 

They DO NOT pay to the lease end value, they pay to replace the cost of the car.

If you buy a car today, and total it tomorrow the insurance pays the VALUE of the car not the depreciation.

 

Insurance company will pay the residual and remaining balance of the depreciation. You're still out of the down payment. If the balance of the depreciation and residual don't cover the value of the car, the negative balance is covered by GAP insurance.

 

Couldn't agree more. I have a 2010 6MT and absolutely hate it. Wish I had gotten an auto.

 

When I go home at 9pm I like zoning out and putting it in D. At 8 am when I'm a zombie going to work I put it in D. When I wanna zoom fast I just DS or tiptronic. Anyway, lets just let the computer do the dirty work and lets press the gas and have fun. Lets you concentrate on road more anyway.

I was in the same boat wanting S instead but really its not a few Gs more. Its like 10-20% more (I got used 08 and S woulda cost that much more). Still I wish I got the S tho

Lets be real. Its not like the S has 70 more HP.