Well the axle wasn't the problem... I believe the wheel bearing was the source of the sound and vibration. So I pulled out the old hub and bolted in a new one. Of course I forgot to take photos of the new hub and extended studs so you'll have to take my word for it.

- During self install of my coilovers, I ended up tearing my passenger side boot for CV axle as well and it flung grease everywhere. In hindsight, it looks like I could have maybe tackled it myself, but my time is also worth something too and I didn't have time for it with OT at work. Now I know for next time

 

Absolutely true, you have to account for what your time is worth to see if it's worth DIY. Luckily I was no longer on OT and had a bit of free time. Even when not rushing anything the axle replacement was only 2 hours, which was quicker than I expected.

 

Log July 2022 - Halo Tail/Brake Lights

As 2021 was consumed by work my 2022 has been more relaxed. Having more free time on the weekends has given me more opportunities for weekend projects. Over this pass weekend we had no rain in the forecast so I decided there would be no better time to pull the tail lights and cut them open to install my set of Diode Dynamics halos. I sized mine for 90 mm and 110mm, these sizes require the removal of the "Gatling gun" plastic diffuser. If you are doing the same and wish to mount the halos on top of these diffusers you will need the next size up which would be 100mm and 120mm. PLEASE double check those sizes if you intend to go that route.

Let's get started. Pull the tail light, grab a Dremel and diamond encrusted wheel and start cutting.


Everything I used. Diamond encrusted Dremel wheels from Amazon. The lights are 90mm, 110m halos and a 9" light strip. Also used 22awg silver wire for mounting the halos. Ans JB Weld Clear Weld (not pictured).


Beginning the operation. Cutting the lower "ledge" of the housing will remove all the parts, lens, reflector. and rear housing.


I used interior trim tools to help separate the housing.


All parts, clockwise, lens, LED array and board, reflector, and red housing.


Bench testing the halos. Two halos can be driven by one driver but you will see reduced light output. I chose to run one driver per halo to have maximum light output.


Here I was mocking up the halos and discovered I would not be able to mount the halos on top of the Gatling diffusers. The 90mm/110mm halos will not set properly until these are removed.


That's better! Mocking the halos with the diffusers removed. Removal of each diffuser is two simple clips and a quick buzz with the Dremel to remove a plastic weld.


I wanted minimal modification to install the halos so I opened up "wallowed out" the inside LED holes. Here I also used the silver coated 22 awg wire. I twisted each wire tight and then twisted them together for a bit more security. Ideally I would have used fishing line but I wasn't happy with how secure the halos were in that housing.


Better view of the halo wiring coming thru the larger holes.


I've reinstalled the LED board and bracket, this is not necessary if you plan to forgo the LED side marker.


Here I've disconnected CON2 and CON3, these are for the OEM LED arrays. I left CON4 connected as I wanted to maintain the LED side marker.


DO NOT . DON'T even try... to attempt to polish the reflector. I had some minor scratches from disassembly and attempted to polish them out. Even with my finniest polish I had zero success in getting rid of these scratches on the reflector. However everything is mounted and ready to be resealed.



Bench test of the running/tail lights. I highly recommend grabbing a 12VDC power supply for projects like this.



Bench test of the brake light.



Not the best A to B comparison as it was still the late afternoon but I couldn't resist throwing it in to see how it would look.

After everything was tested and reassembled I used a soldering iron at 400°F to re-melt the taillight housing and seal the two halves together. After allowing 30 minutes for the plastic to cool I followed up with JB Weld Clear Weld for an extra layer of protection and to cover any pin holes that may have still existed. Repeat all steps for the passenger side tail light.

 

Log July 2022 - LED 3rd Brake Light Strip

This is a modification that you'll need to decide if the juice is worth the squeeze. I have self diagnosed OCD, so with the tail lights modified I "had" to match the 3rd brake light (CHMSTL) with a 9" LED light strip. This would help get rid of the individual LED segments that are seen in the OEM light. Personally I didn't see this as hard work, definitely a bit tedious but straight forward. However doing this outside in July in the south... it was a very hot day of being in the car to remove the rear interior to access the brake light.


Start by pulling the rear seat... The lower cushion is two clips and each rear seat is held by two 14mm nuts on the bottom corners of each cushion.


Yes, this is what's required to remove the 3rd brake light from the car. Pull all of the plastic trim rivets that hold the center pass thru and the parcel shelf.


Look at that, 25 cents to go towards the car budget. The stud above the seat belt it what the upper cushion bolts to, one on each lower corner.


Once the parcel shelf is been freed you can see the 2 Philips screw that hold the brake light to the shelf.


Finally out. Was it worth the work?


Comparing the OEM light to the Diode Dynamics 9" light strip.


Looks like this light will have a better viewing angle... so this is a safety upgrade, right?


I opened the housing up to experiment with placement, with the light strip inside I didn't see enough of a difference although this would have made for a very clean install.


Outside the diffuser it is, I hope it's not too apparent once installed.


This hanging connector is for the 3rd brake light and where I will be tapping into. SO not only do you pull the rear seat you also need to drop the trunk trim.


All mocked up and I must say I like it, even if no one will ever notice that I've swapped the 3rd brake light as well.

 

Log July 2022 - Tail Light Daytime Shots

Grabbed some photos of the taillight mods. Can't wait to get some quality pictures of these at night. Please excuse another photo dump. I'll share more once I have a good opportunity for night photos.


Back to my nearest photo shoot location, I like going back to the park as it's fairly quiet and provides filtered lighting for most of the day.






The silver wire is visible around the halos if you look close enough. I would have loved to loved to use only fishing line but I wasn't confident enough that it would hold.




Close up of the new 3rd brake light.


I really like this bridge, makes for unique picture location.

 

I really like what you did here with the 3rd brake light.

Yep. I did something similar a few years ago. My rear window is tinted dark, and the cut-out in the tint for the brake light exposed the beige plastic in the light housing, because I have a Stone interior. So I spent way too much effort taking everything apart, just so that I could paint the light housing black. Guess what I'm saying is, I get it.

Nicely done. Solid light bar to match the taillight halos, that's pretty impressive.

 

Thoughts on moving your debadged trunk Fuji down about 1.5"?

 

Thank you! I knew if I didn't at least try it I would be wondering "what if?". I can understand your situation as well, I would have done the same, having the light housing "stick out" would not be acceptable.


Yes, I have but my concern is more ghosting. It may not be visible in the photos but my "INFINITI" and G37x badges still have ghosting from 2 years ago. I've polished multiple times but haven't had much success in blending those areas.

 

That's valid. I'm no expert on paint care, but there are different levels of cut compound to paint polishes. I had a very slight ghosting when removing my INFINITI and G37S badges way back when, and a combination of high and low Maguiar's Cut Compound did the trick, with just elbow grease, no electric buffer. Then again, that was 5 year ago, with a low mileage G that lives in a garage. I never relocated the Fuji, however, because I was replacing INFINITI with SKYLINE. But the G37S section was clean and perfect after polishing.



Just for giggles, I shopped one of your pics to see what it would look like. It looks better, IMO.

Looking at your rear pics, I'd guess your next detailing project will be those exhaust tips.

 

You sir are correct, I've spent a total of 5 minutes trying to clean up the tips before I gave up, and decided a different exhaust would be on the wish list.

I've been keeping an eye out for a used exhaust for an AWD sedan. Ideally I would like a cat back system but I'm also trying to keep it under $500, so it maybe just an axleback. I see that user blackman_66 has a RWD system that would be a good start. I may try to see if I could make that work.

I know your sedan is RWD but do you have any suggestions for an AWD that aren't obnoxiously loud? Trying to be OEM+ after all.

 

Do you know how steel wool is rated at the hardware store? The finest wool is 0000 (four naught). Pick some up, get under the car and go to town with the steel wool and metal polish. You'll be surprised how nice it comes out. Don't worry about ruining the finish, you already don't care, and anyway there' no finish to ruin, just polished stainless steel. But use the 0000 wool. Anything heavier will definitely scratch up the tips.

As for the cans, a rattle can of flat black primer can touch those up, if necessary.

Give it a try. Lean into it.


Honestly, if you're looking for a gentle bump in tone and grunt, the Stillen cat-back is fine. The cans and tips are better looking than stock, and the fitment is good.

Fast Intentions cat-backs are loud, but only under load. Otherwise, they purr. It's very nice.

The Tanabe Medallion axle-back also looks better than stock, but not as good as others, IMO. The exhaust note will barely change, and it's not a power add. However, the price is right if all you're looking to do is simple DIY that improves looks.

 

Not sure if they make an awd version but I love the sound of my Topspeed Pro-1 y-pipe back. Was very mild under normal driving but had some grunt at WOT. Of course now with the resonated test pipes it’s a bit rowdy, but with stock cats it was a nice happy medium.

 

Thanks for the advice, I tried the steel wool and had a decent amount of success. I had just given up on it hoping to drive myself to an aftermarket solution.

Also I appreciate the exhaust suggestions. I have a friend with a FI cat-back on his 370z and it's very nice. That system is at the top of my want list but unfortunately those founds are probably better spent on the 2 project cars. So a cheaper solution will have to do.

 

Nice, I just checked their website and the listing clams it's compatible with the AWD sedans. I'll check that out!

 

Took the wheels off to check the brakes on the car, thought it was a good excuse to take a picture of the wheels.

Does anyone else find themselves with more than one set of a wheel? I've acquired these G35 Forged wheels over a period of nearly 7 years. Planning on stripping the OEM silver set and painting them bronze for a second set of tires, most likely all seasons.


The upper left most wheel is the one that was damaged, so I only have 8 useable wheels.