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The long story is a damn novel, so here's the short story:
Last year right after July 4th, my 08 G37s was totaled from a rear end collision with an 18 wheeler. Back got ****ed up, and bought this turd 06 G35 that has a built short block and greddy TT kit with fresh new rebuilt turbos for the low low. I hopped on the chance, thinking I knew enough to fix the $hit, but fuq I was wrong. Fast forward almost a year, and I'm STILL messing with this thing. It's one thing after another, literally.
The trunk was pushed in a good foot and a half. Smh
August, I picked her up in Florida. Named her Gina, cuz she's always trippin.
So update on the progress....
There's a terrible exhaust leak: passenger side down pipe flange is bent at a 12 degree angle, so it doesn't mate up right with the exhaust (discontinued AAM true dual 3" exhaust- winning). I'm debating whether or not i want to just re-weld a good flange on to replace the f*@&ed one, or if i want to cut it all off completely and go v-band. I'm thinking for ease of working on it or switching out exhaust later on, I'll just replace the single flange. The bolts broke because of it, and it was dangling...so now I have it metal ziptied in place until I can work out a deal with my homie on getting the welding done. The car is still throwing the codes p1084, p0507, p0037, and p0057 (all x2). I know that the p0507 can probably be eliminated by doing the idle re-learn procedure, but I think the problem is directly tied to the p1084 code- camshaft sensor bank 2 gone bad. Because of it, my idle is high, around 1.5k on average, but I can live with that. AFR is high too, idle is 14.3-15.6 fluctuating. Under load (throttle), most of the time it'll drop to 13.3 +/- 0.3 AFR unless I slowly ease into it; cruising speed it remains what idle AFR is. I've narrowed it down to the camshaft sensor down by the oil pan, the one that reads the flywheel. Still have yet to order it, but I have to find out what the serial number for it is. The coolant expansion reservoir was originally some milk jug lookin a$$ cheap piece of sh*#, replaced that with a 20oz stainless steel one that I relocated in the front fender in front of the passenger wheel. I have to relocate it because I found out that due to it's position, it's sucking minute amounts of air into the coolant system, which explains the overheating problem. Replaced bank 1 camshaft sensor, and that got rid of the sputtering acceleration (thank god). However, now, I have to figure out why I'm only hitting wastegate pressure and not going the full 12 psi it was tuned for. Like I said before, I'm not too knowledgeable on turbo systems, so it's a learning process for me at the same time. Originally I thought it was a boost leak, but it would peg higher, then settle back down to 5psi (which is all I see in any gear under any position of the throttle when in boost). Going to a friends this weekend to use his boost leak tester to see if it's that, or if it's just me not knowing how to use the greddy boost controller that I have (profec B spec II- still learning how to use that properly). I got a set of whiteline differential bushings, but that's going to go on once the powertrain problems are solved and the codes are gone. Also, I think the...camshaft solenoid actuator? I dunno what it's called, but it's the solenoid actuators that control the pressure/oil going to the cylinders...one is replaced, but the other looks old af, and I think has gone bad...like I said, idle is high, around 1.5k rpm. during stop and go traffic, whenever I depress the clutch, as long as I'm holding it, it'll seek like a vacuum leak from 1.2k to 1.8k rpm, but will settle out immediately back to 1.5k when I let off the clutch. Not too sure, but I still have to figure that one out. Hopefully it's just the tune...
Then off to Z1 for a retune to get rid of this sh*@ty one. I'll get to harass Jon in person. Again.
*UPDATE MARCH 2017* all is fixed, but now the bank 2 intake cam solenoid is going, and coil packs need replacing because of a slight misfire in cylinder 3. Afr is corrected now, but is reading the same pretty much because of the kinetix v2 manifold installed. Retune still on hold for the moment. Considering an internals rebuild.
Looks like garbage.
Previous owner was about that lowlift. Smh.
P.O. took it to a shop that diagnosed the issue wrong, replaced TB and MAF, but took the logos off the old uprev and glued them to the oem. I looked up the serial numbers to verify, and sure enough..fml
Its obvious. Replaced with a stainless steel 20 oz from Summit Racing.
Replaced with poly.
Ugh, i cant even. Oil cooler coolant line ruptured. Replaced.
Car is tuned on E85, and this dw $hit itself. Replaced with a Walboro 400.
Oil from leaking valve cover. Replaced.
Exhaust timing camshaft sensor, bank 2. Replaced.
Thank god the heads still look clean.
Spark plugs all replaced. Note the oil on ALL of them as well as the crush ring still intact for majority of them. FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
Plug hooked it up for the low. Half price msrp with all hardware.
As luck would have it, I bought a boroscope to peek into the cylinders when i changed the valve covers and spark plugs. And this is what i find. <br/><br/>On all of them. FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUK
No pain no gain, looks like you've gone through plenty of pain, so all that's left is the gain! Look forward to seeing it all come together, keep up the good fight!
