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Hello everyone, I realized that I ended up making a post and not a thread on this.
Many of you have found themselves with a faulty/ leaking/ playful rack and now is time for replacement.
Brand new you are looking at around $1300 which is why this thread was created and why so many folks ask about this.
It does not help that Infiniti has over 10 different part numbers for rack assemblies due to year and trim.
Obtaining a 4WAS car and realizing my rack was leaking introduced some anxiety being that I was for sure convinced that I was FUBAR on this situation. After some extensive research I found that in regards of the front rack Infiniti/Nissan did not disappoint with their parts recycling.
I found the rack and pinion body in all the diagrams to share the same part number. What it came down to for RWD racks was the tie rods and possible other brackets that go in this location change due to Infiniti selling the whole assembly.
In an assembly any clip, bolt, nut, bracket that changes, changes the whole part number. Many Parts personnel will not even entertain a single digit change or are unwilling to disassemble a diagram to tell you these specifics.
49001 - JL07A - coupe 4was
49001 - JL06A - coupe base
49001 - JK600 - RWD sedan base
49001 - JK60A - RWD sedan base
49001 - JK60C - RWD sedan sport
49001 - JK63A - RWD sedan base
49001 - JK620 - RWD sedan 4was
49001 - JK62A - RWD sedan 4was
49001 - JK62C - RWD sedan 4was
49001 - JL06ATJ - RWD base -2008
As you can see by the part numbers, many similarities the problem is many of these part numbers have been superseded and change only leaving visual as the judge.
I ended up pulling the trigger on an used 09 rack from a base sedan I go from American Auto Export.
When I got home I layed them side by side and looked like this
I opened the tower where the worm gear is located and it's exactly the same to the teeth.
The next step was to determine why the bottom rack was shorter. I removed both rods and measured the rack which was the same.
After doing more research and comparing notes I found 49200 is the bare rack part number 1 sport inner 2 base inner 1 sport outer 2 base outer 3 base inner 4 base inner 5 sport inner 6 sport inner 7 base outer 8 base outer
"Diagram (1 of 1): 4WAS SED - 2WD/STD.VQ25HR.SPORT/P +2WD/STD.VQ37VHR.SPORT/P.7AT +VQ37VHR.6MT"
The diagrams list 3 different images for racks for the V36
RWD, 4WAS, AWD
If you pay attention to the diagrams you'll see in the bare rack the part numbers are the same, only one that changes shape and number is the AWD one
Out of curiosity, what is your rationale for this proposed swap, panda?
I'd have to do more research on the pro and con of the electrical amp draw from the motor, but its 1 left pulley for parasitic draw and 1 less fluid to worry about leaks. Not sure how the weights compare for the tradiation powersteering with pump, lines, reservior, and fluid vs motor.
Its just a thought for me now but have seen a video of someone doing it and his explaination on how to make it work
For giggles (and my soaps were boring today), I did a brief comparison of the FSM's for the steering control system ('08 G37 vs. '17 Q60)... surprisingly, there are only 5 wires for the electric rack, power, ground, ignition ON signal and CAN (H&L). The rack pulls from the 100amp main (constant) battery fuse and a 10amp (switched) fuse (for ignition signal). There is no mention of what "normal" amperage the electric motor draws. That, and there are some key differences in swing force and rotating torque values between the G's HPS and the Q's EPS racks.
The only potential "hiccups" I see are via CAN. It is unknown what specific CAN signals the power steering control module is looking for outside of the obvious (SAS, VSS, TCS) and it gets even "quirkier" when you get DAS involved.
Interesting, to say the least...
But, back to topic...
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Oct 19, 2022 at 04:14 PM.
Outside of universal forum rules I dont mind this topic.
The first I learned from this swap was on a Z using this same rack so it also appears this thread could include the Z rack as well. (I assume)
@ILM-NC G37S Ever since learning about CAN I no longer get excited about systems carrying less than 5 wires being that ALL of their complexity lies on the BUS.
SAS, VSS, TCS
Outside of this I believe infotainment is also impacted by this however is mainly towards the Steering angle sensor. We might be overthinking the entire thing.
It could be a simple as wiring the unit into the CAN BUS and the rest would be controlled by the ECM.
It looks like its a combination of 3- 4 units:
2-3 PS modules and the ECM
I dont think you're getting it to work in a normally hydraulic PS car unless some Duino is mixed into it.
Per pictures it looks like the systems is about 70% standalone were it would leave the 3-4 units requiring +/- CAN, etc
Conclusion: I think this swap per-se is one of those - If planning on VR swapping then yes- type of venture. Being that you'll be able to pull most of what you need from a Q50 you'd have higher chances at getting it to work from a factory standpoint than taking this on yourself.
I also like to think that for the amount of effort this requires, there are simpler hybrid pumps that will require less CAN work than this whole ordeal.
Lastly I'm not a fan of how big and bulky this whole unit is vs what can be done. Sadly the OEM PS is a bit annoying in size and gets in the way of a lot of forced induction setups
Hello everyone, I realized that I ended up making a post and not a thread on this.
Many of you have found themselves with a faulty/ leaking/ playful rack and now is time for replacement.
Brand new you are looking at around $1300 which is why this thread was created and why so many folks ask about this.
It does not help that Infiniti has over 10 different part numbers for rack assemblies due to year and trim.
Obtaining a 4WAS car and realizing my rack was leaking introduced some anxiety being that I was for sure convinced that I was FUBAR on this situation. After some extensive research I found that in regards of the front rack Infiniti/Nissan did not disappoint with their parts recycling.
I found the rack and pinion body in all the diagrams to share the same part number. What it came down to for RWD racks was the tie rods and possible other brackets that go in this location change due to Infiniti selling the whole assembly.
In an assembly any clip, bolt, nut, bracket that changes, changes the whole part number. Many Parts personnel will not even entertain a single digit change or are unwilling to disassemble a diagram to tell you these specifics.
49001 - JL07A - coupe 4was
49001 - JL06A - coupe base
49001 - JK600 - RWD sedan base
49001 - JK60A - RWD sedan base
49001 - JK60C - RWD sedan sport
49001 - JK63A - RWD sedan base
49001 - JK620 - RWD sedan 4was
49001 - JK62A - RWD sedan 4was
49001 - JK62C - RWD sedan 4was
49001 - JL06ATJ - RWD base -2008
As you can see by the part numbers, many similarities the problem is many of these part numbers have been superseded and change only leaving visual as the judge.
I ended up pulling the trigger on an used 09 rack from a base sedan I go from American Auto Export.
When I got home I layed them side by side and looked like this
I opened the tower where the worm gear is located and it's exactly the same to the teeth.
The next step was to determine why the bottom rack was shorter. I removed both rods and measured the rack which was the same.
After doing more research and comparing notes I found 49200 is the bare rack part number 1 sport inner 2 base inner 1 sport outer 2 base outer 3 base inner 4 base inner 5 sport inner 6 sport inner 7 base outer 8 base outer
"Diagram (1 of 1): 4WAS SED - 2WD/STD.VQ25HR.SPORT/P +2WD/STD.VQ37VHR.SPORT/P.7AT +VQ37VHR.6MT"
The diagrams list 3 different images for racks for the V36
RWD, 4WAS, AWD
If you pay attention to the diagrams you'll see in the bare rack the part numbers are the same, only one that changes shape and number is the AWD one
So just so we're clear, this for the 4was sport sedan? So you had the sport steering rack (14.7:1) ratio? And so the SPORT has longer or shorter inner/outer tie rods?
I've seen a few of your posts that say the sport has shorter inner tie rods but then the pics you made show the sport as longer inner tie rods.
Your labeling of the pic is very confusing. So for the pic of the racks, is the top one off your car? Or is the bottom one?
I think you have your labels mixed up when showing all the inner and outer tie rods together ..
So just so we're clear, this for the 4was sport sedan? So you had the sport steering rack (14.7:1) ratio? And so the SPORT has longer or shorter inner/outer tie rods?
I've seen a few of your posts that say the sport has shorter inner tie rods but then the pics you made show the sport as longer inner tie rods.
Your labeling of the pic is very confusing. So for the pic of the racks, is the top one off your car? Or is the bottom one?
I think you have your labels mixed up when showing all the inner and outer tie rods together ..
The newer looking components are the new
So base rack
and base rods are the newer looking ones.
The newer looking components are the new
So base rack
and base rods are the newer looking ones.
Yeah, so the pictures are mislabeled then for the inner rods? May want to correct that
I also dont understand how the length of the inner rods would have any affect to the steering ratio considering you would have to screw in the inner rod further into the outer rod to compensate for their differences. This would give you the same effective length of the total inner+outer tie rod regardless since the toe is directly affected by this total length.
I could be way wrong and if I am, I would greatly appreciate being explained to why.
The reason I'm trying to figure this out is because I need to replace the inner on my g37S sedan and want to be 100% sure I can try and get the correct inner rods.
Yeah, so the pictures are mislabeled then for the inner rods? May want to correct that
I also dont understand how the length of the inner rods would have any affect to the steering ratio considering you would have to screw in the inner rod further into the outer rod to compensate for their differences. This would give you the same effective length of the total inner+outer tie rod regardless since the toe is directly affected by this total length.
I could be way wrong and if I am, I would greatly appreciate being explained to why.
The reason I'm trying to figure this out is because I need to replace the inner on my g37S sedan and want to be 100% sure I can try and get the correct inner rods.
I believe the steering ratio is determined by the teeth count on the gear (steering column) and the teeth count on the pinion rack.
I had a 240sx with HICAS that had a ratio of 14.9:1 (2.6 turn lock -to-lock) vs the standard rack that had 17.1:1 (3.1 turn lock-to-lock).
Changing the tie rod lengths didn't seem to change the lock-to-lock.
I believe the steering ratio is determined by the teeth count on the gear (steering column) and the teeth count on the pinion rack.
I had a 240sx with HICAS that had a ratio of 14.9:1 (2.6 turn lock -to-lock) vs the standard rack that had 17.1:1 (3.1 turn lock-to-lock).
Changing the tie rod lengths didn't seem to change the lock-to-lock.
Right, I had always assumed the worm gear's teeth pitch and angle and/or the teeth count/pitch on the rack are what determined the steering ratio. Given that the distance needed for proper toe alignment between the rack and the knuckle would need to remain "constant".
As examples of the above concerning the rack itself:
So you can have the same worm gear with different ratios given a different rack
The issue here is that both racks have the same gear and tooth count and based off part numbers and visual comparison there are no differences in the racks themselves. (I believe I have pictures to prove so)
The only differences to the system itself is a different pump (Nut on the pulley, Pump is usually found in trucks) and differences in tie-rod length. My knowledge on steering angles are limited however from the hotrod/drifting/climbing world the consensus is that shorter tierods will yield a shorter turning ratio.
"Today I machined a step in the inner tie rods so they can go into the rack 5mm at full lock, and also made 5mm thick washers to go between them and the rack. I may need to shorten the outer threaded end of the inner tie rods by 10mm, assemble it and get it aligned. It should turn tighter, and I have just barely compromised the factory geometry: now the tie rod assembly is 10mm shorter than the lower control arm. Equal length is most ideal, but this is still close. A day later- it was a success, still drives and steers the same as far as I can tell, but the wheels now steer far enough for the tire to rub the sway bar at full lock, and it turns pretty much tighter. I'll have to go easy on my tire sidewalls, but that shouldn't be so hard. It's not for competition, just parking lots and tight spots" - Lexus froums
you need to find a way to shorten your steering arms (on your spindles). you can cut one inch out and move the tie rod beveled hole 1/4 inch to the outside (this preserves ackerman), and weld it back together. The other way that does not involve welding or cutting is that you can drill out your beveled hole where the tie rod end goes to fit in a 1/2 inch bolt. Put the bolt in and bolt it on the steering arm. Then, you can make a 3/8 inch thick metal strip to weld to the bottom of the bolt. drill another hole in the strip at 1" straight back and 1/4 inch straight to the outside from where the tie rod hole is. Adapt your tie rod ends to accept a heim joint (beyond discussion here--but pretty easy to figure out how to do it). bolt heim joint tie rod end though hole in metal strip. This will increase your wheel turning radius by over a whopping 12 degrees! Check it out. I will be drifting it in December at Irwindale in the u.s. vs. japan event. The secong method works especially well if your car is lowered because it acts like a lowered spindle and corrects your bump steer--but even if your car is not lowered, more bump steer will cause your wheels to turn more in the direction of steer, so you will get more steer that way as well. The other way is to buy one of those expensive racks, but you will still need to notch out your lower control arms. If anyone is interested in drifting an f body, or corvette, contact me and I will do what I can to assist you. - Corvette Forum
Outers: AWD/RWD
D8520-EG00C Right
D8640-EG00C Left
According to Nissan catalog:
POWER STEERING GEAR
2WD. VQ35HR TYPE ENGIEN ENGINE<200710 - 200810>
2WD. VQ35HR TYPE ENGIEN ENGINE<200810 - 201009>
2WD. VQ35HR TYPE ENGIEN ENGINE<201009 - 201207>
2WD. VQ37VHR ENGINE<201207 - 201507>
2WD. VQ37VHR ENGINE<201507 - >
Rack And Pinion Steering Pinion Shaft
INFINITI G25 2.5L V6 AT 2WD/STD SEDAN JOURNEY 2011
INFINITI G25 2.5L V6 AT 2WD/STD SEDAN LEATHER 2011
INFINITI G25 2.5L V6 AT 2WD/STD SEDAN PREMIUM 2011
INFINITI G25 2.5L V6 AT AWD SEDAN JOURNEY 2011
INFINITI G25 2.5L V6 AT AWD SEDAN PREMIUM 2011
INFINITI G25 2.5L V6 AT AWD SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2011
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT 2WD HI SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT 2WD SEDAN JOURNEY 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT 2WD SEDAN LEATHER 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT 2WD SEDAN PREMIUM 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT 2WD SEDAN SPORT 2007, 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT 2WD SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT AWD SEDAN JOURNEY 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT AWD SEDAN PREMIUM 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT AWD SEDAN SPORT 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 AT AWD SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 MT 2WD HI SEDAN SPORT 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 MT 2WD HI SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 MT 2WD SEDAN SPORT 2008
INFINITI G35 3.5L V6 MT 2WD SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2008
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD Convertible JOURNEY 2010, 2011
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD Convertible PREMIUM 2010, 2011
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD Convertible SPORT PREMIUM 2010, 2011
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD COUPE LEATHER JOURNEY 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD COUPE LEATHER PREMIUM 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/4WAS COUPE SPORT 2008
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/4WAS COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/4WAS SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2009, 2010, 2011
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD COUPE BASE 2009, 2010, 2012
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD COUPE LEATHER 2008
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD COUPE SPORT 2008, 2009, 2010
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2008, 2009, 2011
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD SEDAN JOURNEY 2009, 2010, 2011
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD SEDAN LEATHER 2009, 2010
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD SEDAN PREMIUM 2009, 2010, 2011
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD SEDAN SPORT 2009
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 AT 2WD/STD SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2009, 2010, 2011
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 MT 2WD Convertible SPORT PREMIUM 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 MT 2WD COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 MT 2WD/4WAS COUPE SPORT 2008
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 MT 2WD/4WAS COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2008, 2009
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 MT 2WD/4WAS SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2009
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 MT 2WD/STD SEDAN SPORT 2009
INFINITI G37 3.7L V6 MT 2WD/STD SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37X 3.7L V6 AT AWD COUPE LEATHER JOURNEY 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37X 3.7L V6 AT AWD COUPE LEATHER PREMIUM 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37X 3.7L V6 AT AWD COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37X 3.7L V6 AT AWD SEDAN JOURNEY 2009, 2010, 2011
INFINITI G37X 3.7L V6 AT AWD SEDAN PREMIUM 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
INFINITI G37X 3.7L V6 AT AWD SEDAN SPORT 2009
INFINITI G37X 3.7L V6 AT AWD SEDAN SPORT PREMIUM 2009, 2010, 2011
INFINITI Q60 3.7L V6 AT 2WD COUPE LEATHER JOURNEY 2014, 2015
INFINITI Q60 3.7L V6 AT 2WD COUPE LEATHER PREMIUM 2014, 2015
INFINITI Q60 3.7L V6 AT 2WD COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2014, 2015
INFINITI Q60 3.7L V6 AT AWD COUPE LEATHER JOURNEY 2014, 2015
INFINITI Q60 3.7L V6 AT AWD COUPE LEATHER PREMIUM 2014, 2015
INFINITI Q60 3.7L V6 AT AWD COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2014, 2015
INFINITI Q60 3.7L V6 MT 2WD COUPE SPORT PREMIUM 2014, 2015
The issue here is that both racks have the same gear and tooth count and based off part numbers and visual comparison there are no differences in the racks themselves. (I believe I have pictures to prove so)
The only differences to the system itself is a different pump (Nut on the pulley, Pump is usually found in trucks) and differences in tie-rod length. My knowledge on steering angles are limited however from the hotrod/drifting/climbing world the consensus is that shorter tierods will yield a shorter turning ratio.
"Today I machined a step in the inner tie rods so they can go into the rack 5mm at full lock, and also made 5mm thick washers to go between them and the rack. I may need to shorten the outer threaded end of the inner tie rods by 10mm, assemble it and get it aligned. It should turn tighter, and I have just barely compromised the factory geometry: now the tie rod assembly is 10mm shorter than the lower control arm. Equal length is most ideal, but this is still close. A day later- it was a success, still drives and steers the same as far as I can tell, but the wheels now steer far enough for the tire to rub the sway bar at full lock, and it turns pretty much tighter. I'll have to go easy on my tire sidewalls, but that shouldn't be so hard. It's not for competition, just parking lots and tight spots" - Lexus froums
you need to find a way to shorten your steering arms (on your spindles). you can cut one inch out and move the tie rod beveled hole 1/4 inch to the outside (this preserves ackerman), and weld it back together. The other way that does not involve welding or cutting is that you can drill out your beveled hole where the tie rod end goes to fit in a 1/2 inch bolt. Put the bolt in and bolt it on the steering arm. Then, you can make a 3/8 inch thick metal strip to weld to the bottom of the bolt. drill another hole in the strip at 1" straight back and 1/4 inch straight to the outside from where the tie rod hole is. Adapt your tie rod ends to accept a heim joint (beyond discussion here--but pretty easy to figure out how to do it). bolt heim joint tie rod end though hole in metal strip. This will increase your wheel turning radius by over a whopping 12 degrees! Check it out. I will be drifting it in December at Irwindale in the u.s. vs. japan event. The secong method works especially well if your car is lowered because it acts like a lowered spindle and corrects your bump steer--but even if your car is not lowered, more bump steer will cause your wheels to turn more in the direction of steer, so you will get more steer that way as well. The other way is to buy one of those expensive racks, but you will still need to notch out your lower control arms. If anyone is interested in drifting an f body, or corvette, contact me and I will do what I can to assist you. - Corvette Forum
I understand that the whole rack part number BS for the sedan which makes it confusing as all hell since all the racks will fit whatever model g37 you have (excluding awd). Most websites will just list what it fits, and that's it (not the intended version). On the contrary, you can find coupe sport specific racks without issue. I genuinely think this is down to just part consolidation and Nissan not caring about the low % of sedan sport non awd models.
You had said you took out the worm gear and noticed no difference there, but it's hard, if not impossible, to find pictures of the actual rack pulled out of the whole assembly. Also, the difference in pitch of the teeth between a 14.7:1 and 16.x:1 ratio would be very, very minor without physically measuring it.
The first quote you list does NOT change the steering ratio. That mod is merely allowing for a smaller turning radius by increasing the amount of full lock. The quote basically says this themselves. It is used for drifting.
Lastly, can you please post a link to where you found that second quote? Considering they talk of a shortening the steering arm or moving where the tie rod is connected to it, they are literally just moving the point where the tie rod connects to the steering arm closer to the center of the hub/knuckle/spindle. This changes the steering ratio and lock to lock because of that shortened distance to the center of the hub. The shortened tie rods are a result of this change in placement along the steering arm (because toe alignment would be off otherwise) and NOT what is causing the steering ratio change.
That has nothing to do with our applications or how our steering system works. We have a fixed point on the knuckle and a fixed point to the rack inside the assembly. The distance between those two must remain "constant" for proper toe alignment.
This thread shows and explains what is happening (this is a steering arm from a Corvette that happens to have two holes where the tie rod could connect to the steering arm and hence, they provide different steering "speeds" (ratios): https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...m-mystery.html
