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Help Handling problem after lowering

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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 10:27 AM
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Handling problem after lowering

Hello, I have a 09 AWD coupe,
and I recently lowered it a few months ago on BC’s BR series, and put new wheels on (same size, different offset)
Other than it looking a lot nicer, it’s been nothing but a headache. Car makes so many noises now.
a really big concern is when I’m driving and come up to even a slight turn. The cars body feels like it’s swaying back and forth, and can be dangerous. I’ve had an alignment done after lowering it, and replaced all 4 endlinks, I even had to replace the driver side axle. Does anybody know what the issue could be?
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 11:00 AM
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can you try putting on the original wheels to see if the cars exhibits the same characteristics? My first thought is the attachment point of the wheel may not be secure, like the original wheels provide. Report back.
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 11:01 AM
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Likely improper coilover install. Did you set the preload properly prior to installing them?

IIRC AWD models are picky about tire size and wear. Are you running a square tire set up with the same amount wear?
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 2.2Lude
Likely improper coilover install. Did you set the preload properly prior to installing them?

IIRC AWD models are picky about tire size and wear. Are you running a square tire set up with the same amount wear?
I was told From multiple people BC’s come preloaded already and you shouldn’t have to set the pre load, but I’m open to anything at this point. I’m running a squared setup on 245/45’s

and I have RPF1 wheels size 18 with a +38 offset
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 11:37 AM
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They generally do but it’s not always a given. Wheel and tire size seem fine.

Was the spring loose when you installed the BC’s?
Did you re-torque everything back to spec?

Are you running a “true” type coilover and after market toe/traction arms or still using the factory spring bucket seat/arm?

I’ve read a lot about people installing a full set of after market rear arms and ending up with scary driving characteristics because most alignment shops don’t know to set the new suspension up properly. Mainly from the traction and toe arms.
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 2.2Lude
They generally do but it’s not always a given. Wheel and tire size seem fine.

Was the spring loose when you installed the BC’s?
Did you re-torque everything back to spec?

Are you running a “true” type coilover and after market toe/traction arms or still using the factory spring bucket seat/arm?

I’ve read a lot about people installing a full set of after market rear arms and ending up with scary driving characteristics because most alignment shops don’t know to set the new suspension up properly. Mainly from the traction and toe arms.
nothing seems loose or seemed loose during the install, even the guys at the alignment shop said everything seemed tight. I have Megan racing control arms on the front and rear, they were pretty cheap not gonna lie, but the quality didn’t seem bad. The rears adjust like a normal control arm would, the fronts are designed to be adjusted and tightened with Allen head bolts..
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 01:05 PM
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Any chance you have your last alignment sheet? This will help track down the issue.
Start with the oem wheel swap, I usually recommend installs one at a time or at least non conjunctional parts especially in the alignment end of things.
You say you have different offset but then that you are rocking RPF-1s wheels size 18 with a +38 offset. +38 all around or not?

Camber - it's possible that to obtain less tire wear they might have opted for a more positive camber and since the offset might be different it might play a part when it's mixed with AWD plus different offset. I could be wrong.

Your noises I'm sure are from the arms themselves, there is some reports of BC being noisy but with coil-overs over time I like to brush some of that white grease ENERGY SUSPENSION bushings bring and it quiets some of the noise of the spring.

Rubber bushings not only put tension on the arm, they provide some active movement that will absorb harsh shocks and will muffle some of the vibrations and noise. Any type of metal pillow ball will pass on the noises and vibrations to the car and deteriorate much quicker if not kept greased.
Grease/lube will be your friend.

The rest is to possibly soften the spring rate a bit and lower the length of the assembly itself. Pay attention to your front axle angles since the last thing you want to do is blow an axle trying to obtain looks and comfort.
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 01:07 PM
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I've always wondered why they didnt make an eccentric bushing replacement for the FUCA to be able to adjust camber and keep a rubber bushing. Like they do on some vehicles.
We have eccentrics on the rear toe like most cars

Update: look at this






Last edited by BULL; Dec 17, 2021 at 01:18 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BULL
Any chance you have your last alignment sheet? This will help track down the issue.
Start with the oem wheel swap, I usually recommend installs one at a time or at least non conjunctional parts especially in the alignment end of things.
You say you have different offset but then that you are rocking RPF-1s wheels size 18 with a +38 offset. +38 all around or not?

Camber - it's possible that to obtain less tire wear they might have opted for a more positive camber and since the offset might be different it might play a part when it's mixed with AWD plus different offset. I could be wrong.

Your noises I'm sure are from the arms themselves, there is some reports of BC being noisy but with coil-overs over time I like to brush some of that white grease ENERGY SUSPENSION bushings bring and it quiets some of the noise of the spring.

Rubber bushings not only put tension on the arm, they provide some active movement that will absorb harsh shocks and will muffle some of the vibrations and noise. Any type of metal pillow ball will pass on the noises and vibrations to the car and deteriorate much quicker if not kept greased.
Grease/lube will be your friend.

The rest is to possibly soften the spring rate a bit and lower the length of the assembly itself. Pay attention to your front axle angles since the last thing you want to do is blow an axle trying to obtain looks and comfort.
I’ll have to get my last alignment sheet after work.
I have the same +38 offset for all 4 wheels.
the noises honestly do sound like they are coming from the control arms, they make noises over bumps and turns, especially when reversing and turning. Installing the OEM wheels will be a bit of a problem since I need tires for them. If it’s the control arms causing the bad handling, what would be my next move? To replace them? I’ll definitely try and grease up all the bushings to get rid of the noise.
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by BULL
Any chance you have your last alignment sheet? This will help track down the issue.
Start with the oem wheel swap, I usually recommend installs one at a time or at least non conjunctional parts especially in the alignment end of things.
You say you have different offset but then that you are rocking RPF-1s wheels size 18 with a +38 offset. +38 all around or not?

Camber - it's possible that to obtain less tire wear they might have opted for a more positive camber and since the offset might be different it might play a part when it's mixed with AWD plus different offset. I could be wrong.

Your noises I'm sure are from the arms themselves, there is some reports of BC being noisy but with coil-overs over time I like to brush some of that white grease ENERGY SUSPENSION bushings bring and it quiets some of the noise of the spring.

Rubber bushings not only put tension on the arm, they provide some active movement that will absorb harsh shocks and will muffle some of the vibrations and noise. Any type of metal pillow ball will pass on the noises and vibrations to the car and deteriorate much quicker if not kept greased.
Grease/lube will be your friend.

The rest is to possibly soften the spring rate a bit and lower the length of the assembly itself. Pay attention to your front axle angles since the last thing you want to do is blow an axle trying to obtain looks and comfort.



sorry that took so long, here is my last alignment sheet
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 12:44 PM
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So, I had a very similar issue after installing my fortune auto coil overs. Same deal, car would basically 'wag' its tail. Used cheap, completely adjustable, control arms to get the job done and alignment completed. Figured I'd replace the following year. Here was my cheap suspension bits after less than 2k miles:





Pop off the control arms and take a look at the bushings. Mine felt solid as well but when the load of the car moves left and right there's a whole lot of play inside those bushings if they're jacked up like the pics above.
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RMB5190
So, I had a very similar issue after installing my fortune auto coil overs. Same deal, car would basically 'wag' its tail. Used cheap, completely adjustable, control arms to get the job done and alignment completed. Figured I'd replace the following year. Here was my cheap suspension bits after less than 2k miles:





Pop off the control arms and take a look at the bushings. Mine felt solid as well but when the load of the car moves left and right there's a whole lot of play inside those bushings if they're jacked up like the pics above.


Which control arms were those?
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 07:21 AM
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I can't remember specifically as it was a few years ago now but sourced from eBay.
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by RMB5190
I can't remember specifically as it was a few years ago now but sourced from eBay.
I never replaced the lowers in the front, but it feels like most of the swaying is generating from the rear.
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 01:02 PM
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Yup, those are what are featured above. Visually, they looked fine. Wasn't until I popped them off and saw the bushings until I realized that was my problem. Threw the OEM ones back on, got a re-alignment and no more swaying/wiggling.
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