It is possible this same flex that affected toe as it would react to sensitivity making the reading incorrect. Even on brand new suspensions toe is pretty sensitive enough. Hope the lugs and new alignment fixed the issue.

Im dealing with 1 degree of negative caster in the front from an accident

 

My local race shop is 2+ hours away in Savannah (Roebling). The shop I've been talking to is a Euro tuner that does set up cars for track duty... did the email response form and they said no, we only do P, B, M and A, but then the owner called me and said I will absolutely look at your car if you're willing to pay our rates... which weren't that much worse than the chain store. Sucks to have to do it twice, but rather get it done right and alignment is one of a very few things I don't have the equipment for myself.

Most of our performance shops in Charleston do not do alignment or chassis work. Just power and dyno. I guess we don't have a lot of road racers here - just dragsters.

BULL - your -1 degree of caster... might be able to be dealt with by adjusting the front subframe? IE move the mounting ears for the upper A arm. If necessary can slot the subframe bolt holes - I've done that before to get thrust angle back to 0.

 

My V35 does a similar rear end skip, the front is solid however the rear when i get close to merging it is tails towards the side I'm merging. it wears the rears every 20k miles and it wears them from the middle, I sometimes see some feathering towards the inside but doesnt concern me. It's not until I'm riding on bald that the condition worsens and the rear feels scary. The funny part is per the rack, the rear is on spec which is why I have not bothered.

I posted a sheet on my thread of the last measurement on the V36 if you want to take a look at it. The direction I'm thinking about going is checking the frame holding studs for straightness/bend them forward to see if it changes. I'll be ok with 1/2 degree improvement.

You need to start visiting the track often or befriend Nissan/Infiniti techs. Paying full price for alignment that requires more than toe hurts especially when you have to do it again.

 

Wanted to add - haven't had it realigned yet. Next few weeks are last few weeks at this job and so time off is nonexistent and workload is crazy. New job is 2 miles from euro tuner so that sounds like the plan.

I did find my toe plates in the attic so I might try to get a reading - as I'm sure there was some play before.

 

You are absolutely right, I need to start visiting the track again. I don't think I've done an HPDE since 2007 and haven't autocrossed since 2010 or 2011. Everything is so far away from here - turns a half day autocross into 14+ hours with driving and working.

 

Mike- are you lowered and do you have adjustable end-links on the front or rear? Also, I see you have Whiteline on your sig line. Have you installed Whiteline rear diff bushings or sways?

 

Not lowered (except through age/wear) and OEM all suspention at this point. Whiteline differential bushings only, but that was before new tires/wheels and just got rid of my dead diff mount clunk.

Old tires/wheels were random non-fitting 20" 8.5 front 10" rear with 225 something front and 275 rear. Not the right aspect ratios. New tires/wheels are Coupe Sport 19s 8" front and 8.5" rear or whatever it is, with 245 front and 275 rear.

 

This technical bulletin may help.
https://infinitig37.com/Infiniti-G37...Bullitins.html.

Also, if the alignment shop never calibrates the equipment, then the measurement could be inaccurate.

 

Do you mean camber? Your front structure or control arm would have to rather damaged to get -1° caster.

 

I mean Caster. Visually the LCA looks fine, so does the UCA. The drivers wheel is sitting back about an inch.

 

Don't mean to thread jack rotarymike.
This is what I mean.

 

Looks like a bent control arm. Gotta fix that before trying to fix alignment. Besides, only toe is adjustable up front.

 

Shame you can't just get caster/camber plates and slot the strut top.

How bad are the Amazon adjustable control arms?

 

I replaced the passenger due to ripped balljoint. Drivers arm appeared to be ok.

 

From looking at the OEM upper control arm, the two kinks right around the ball joint would seem to make it easy to get bent and not be able to notice. That might be a cheap part to try to fix the problem.

Proper length shank nuts came in the mail last night. If it can hold off raining this weekend I'm going to put the car on stands again and look over the suspension with a fine tooth prybar. I also have something rattling in the passenger side lower engine compartment (hope it's not a header-cat bolt) that needs a rattlectomy before I lose what's left of my mind.