Sways will help fix the instability in the rear under heavy cornering by keeping the car planted on the ground. What suspension setup do you currently have? I might be able to help you further if I knew what you were working with.

 

I have bc br coils (true coils on front and basically just springs in the rear). that's the only suspension mod I have currently that I know of. im also on 19x8.5 niche rims if that plays a part

 

By only springs in the rear, do you mean to say that you have the stock struts, but coilover springs installed? Or are the coilover springs separated from the Coilover Strut?

 

Gonna be completely honest here and say I'm not too sure. I had bc shocks but replaced them because they were shot. But what it looks like is coilover springs separated from the coilover strut

 

If you had your struts replaced with OEM, that would be the issue right there. You're riding around at a lower height with a weaker strut that is bottoming out. That, or you have a replacement strut with the dampening turned up too high. Either way, I would suggest finding out what you're running on your coilover setup, as that is more than likely the culprit for bouncing all over the place on the road. Once that is solved, a sway bar will help with body roll under hard cornering situations.

 

They are still aftermarket struts I believe but that could be the culprit. So what level should the dampers be at? I'm somewhat clueless when it comes to suspension modifications so just bare with me haha. Thank you!

 

Sway bars will increase your effective spring rate so it would NOT solve that issue but rather amplify it. I would try dialing down the setting on the rear shock. Most likely best to turn the dial to full hard and count back. If your rear is really jumping around, go half as soft as you are now. So let's say you have 30 clicks of adjustment (guessing) and you currently have it at 20, go down to 10 from full soft and report back.

If you get a lot of jounce in the rear, increase the damping until it just goes away at higher speeds. If it's still too stiff in the rear, even at full soft, drop your rear spring rate by 1K. Most of the Chinese/Korean shocks can handle a 2kgf/mm drop in spring rate without changing the valving. I'll guess you have a 12K front, 8K rear setup with a true type in the rear. I'd look it up but I'm in the middle of nowhere on vacation and have a very slow internet connection. So you'd need a 7K or even a 6.5K rear spring if they make it. If it's an OEM spring location in the rear, drop your rear spring rate 2K. The true coil-over type is much more sensitive to spring rate change than the OEM spring location.

Edit: Ok late to the game...just read you no longer have BC Racing dampers in the rear but replaced them with something else? But you still have the BC Racing spring in the OEM location.

My advice, start from scratch. Purchase a set from your vendor of choice. If it's daily driven and you're not super informed on suspension, go with something like the Tein Flex Z which is a twin-tube damper and will handle the rough stuff better than a monotube like the BC.

 

I can not agree more with this right here. From the sounds of it, you had coilovers installed [or bought the car used with coilovers], and got a replacement at a shop that doesn't know much about aftermarket suspension. And at this point, unless you go with new BC coilovers in the rear, of the same set you have in the front, you're only going to have more problems.

Take some time to search around and get some more info from reviews, and general know how about what coilovers offer with adjustability, and modularity. You need to know how the individual parts of a suspension/coilover system work, and how they interact with each other. In terms of coilover recommendations, it really depends on how big your budget is. If you want to start cheap, and have a broader choice, look into Fortune Auto. All of their coilovers from their street, to their full race is interchangeable. Meaning that you can get the street coilover, and in the future you can always get the race strut, and/or the cup kit to improve your system. They also have a number of custom spring rates to choose from, and custom valving options IIRC. If you have a larger budget, and don't want to worry about anything, look into Ohlins or KW Suspension.

And most importantly of all, find a tuner shop in your area that SPECIALIZES in aftermarket modification. They will be able to talk to you in depth about your driving style/needs and be able to setup your ride height and ride quality how you will like it. Look for a race/performance shop, and since its suspension, you don't need to find a place that specializes in Infiniti's. It will help, but don't make that your sole criteria on choosing the shop.

 

Are the dampers the shocks? cause all I did was replace the rear shocks. The bounciness was mostly there before the replacing tho. My budget isn't high but it can be if needed. Id prefer not to start all over with the suspension if it isn't necessary. I was hoping there was a way around it

 

Problem I'm having is the tuner shops around me mostly specialize in audio stuff and not too much aftermarket parts. Plus they are very expensive and do not give any good deals. Anyone know of any recommendations on shops around south jersey/ philly area?

 

Dampers = Shocks. Same thing. You can always contact BC Racing and see if they'll sell you two rear shocks. They're rebuildable so you should never "throw them out". Any chance in hell you can get your old ones back?

If you do that, your rear shocks will be new and fresh but your front shocks won't be. Good suspension is always about balance.

The Tein Flex Z setup I recommended will run you about $800 shipped and will work very well on the street. Any auto shop (or Infiniti dealer) with an SAE certified mechanic can install them (skip the audio "performance" shops).

 

Haha I actually do still have them. My mechanic gave them back to me. So you think that if I send them in they can fix them? The shocks weren't working and I had so many problems with them and clunking noises so that's why I took them out but my mechanic said they were also shot. And will that setup work with the AWD?

 

Most aftermarket coilover companies will offer re-valving of the struts. However, in the case of BC, it'll most likely be cheaper to just buy a new strut than ship your struts in for a re-build. Not to mention, you're back to the issue at hand, which is that the rears will be new, and the fronts used.

 

so if I'm going to replace the rear strut I might as well replace all the coils then right? I think I see what your saying

 

The shocks are valved to match the spring rate. If you switch to a different shock manufacturer need to use their spring.