While I would agree with you in premise (gesture vs. cost) we're talking about a loaded suspension component which really isn't designed correctly. On top of that, it's manufactured in China. Anyone check to see if that place is ISO certified? I would. I took one look at the SPC/Kinetics and other tubular upper arms and was pretty shocked people were using them in place of the stock arms.

We're talking a $300 difference which could mean the difference between arriving safely or not arriving at all. Let's say it fails in a low speed situation and there's no other damage to the car. Depending on how far from home you are, you're looking at a $150 to $300 tow, waiting for the new part to arrive, possibly paying for a rental, possibly paying for having it fixed if you're not doing it yourself etc... And then there's the possibility it could all happen again. It'll always be in the back of your mind.

There a a lot of failure stories over on the 370Z forum and even a few "success" stories. It's also possibly a very small pool of people reporting their experiences and looking at what's going on with the Z1 arms, it really takes a qualified engineer to design an important part like this. It's clear these types of arms are made with price being the most important design criteria. That's kind of scary if you ask me.

I'd say if you can't afford the SPL's, don't lower the car until you can. Or lower it just enough you don't need aftermarket arms at all. If you already have them, I'd check them religiously. At least every tire rotation.

 

ISO certified? I couldn't find one for SPL either although I'm not sure there is an ISO standard for camber arms and any general ISO certifications wouldn't significantly affect the engineering.

How is SPC designed incorrectly?

Where are the failures? I must have missed all of the stories on SPC failing...

I can afford SPL, I just love the thrill of driving on SPCs.

 

Your local shops may be different than mine, but "standard" alignments do not cover adjusting my Z1 arms where they would be covered under a "standard" alignment on the SPL's due to being able to adjust the SPL's with the wheel still on the car. The Z1's require you to take the wheel off, make your adjustments, then put the wheel back on the car to see how your numbers changed. The cost of my alignment was more expensive due to this, although only by about $70.

 

I go to a performance shop that charges a higher rate for any aftermarket camber kits. They don't differentiate between brands or adjustment style.

$120 per @ Touge Factory

 

Must be nice

 

At work so can't do lengthy response now but there are more than a few threads on 370z and other forums with failure issues.

As for the design I already mentioned the issue of being loaded in sheer vs. loaded in compression. Much harder to snap stuff in compression. Take toothpick and snap in half. That's shear. Take toothpick, end to end, and compress. Takes less energy to snap in shear.

I'm not trying to convince anyone, just stating my reasons for choosing SPL.

As far as ISO cert, have to find the actual manufacturer and check with them. They may even have a site with the info or lack of. Brakes and suspension two big areas I don't skimp on.

 

^^And that's the engineering to which I alluded.

 

Well it seems SPL is the BEST option but a very suffice 2nd option is SPC. Not sure if any of you have been to a professional drift event but when I went to Formula Drift in TX and saw the abuse their cars went through, I'm 100% confident SPC will handle my occasional weekend curvy road cruise. Fredric Asabo is a direct receiver of SPC arms and he's damn good.. I guess if you get really picky you could have a welder go over the arms themselves for $20-30 bucks..

 

Can't fix the bushing design with a welder

 

SPC Makes two different A-arm types.
The 72130 with OEM-style bushings and a adjustable ball-joint

AND

The 73005 with dual turnbuckle arm adjusters and x-axis performance bushings.

Which ones were failing on the 370z forums?

 

Yes, you just need to grind off the "C" and weld on an "L". That should take care of the problem.

 

The Z1 arms. And they don't fail, per se, the nut holding the ball joint backs off and the ball joint separates from the arm. There have been a couple of reported failures on this board, too. Z1 is sending out new ball joints, nuts and Locktite 270(?) to their customers and might even do some reimbursement for shop labor and towing.