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Should I turn my slotted rotors?

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Old 11-12-2015, 11:53 PM
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JakeG37
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Should I turn my slotted rotors?

When I bought my used 2008 G37S Coupe I bought brand new EBC slotted rotors and Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads. Its been about 30k miles since then and I want to replace my pads (not sure they are really that worn but I error on the side of caution). I will use the same pads I had before but I need to know if I should turn the slotted rotors? If turning is not recommended, can I deglaze them or "scuff" them some way to remove the old pad residue to give me a clean mating surface for the new pads?

In my early years driving, I always seemed to notice brake judder after doing a brake job after a couple thousand miles. This was probably due to my ****ty braking habits and not bedding the pads in properly when they were changed. I have gotten older and wiser and other than some squealing, my EBC/Hawk combo has been a pleasant driving experience. I hate to spend $400 on more rotors if I could get another 30k miles out of them. Any recommendations or suggestions?
Old 11-13-2015, 12:07 AM
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JSolo
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Standard lathes can't cut these rotors, it'll damage the bit. Not sure if there's equipment in the field to turn these.
Old 11-13-2015, 12:24 AM
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JakeG37
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Would it be recommended to deglaze them and replace the pads with the same brand/type? I just dont want any issues and this is my first set of slotted rotors so I dont have personal experience to go on.
Old 11-13-2015, 12:31 AM
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JSolo
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You could use steel wool to scuff them up, or maybe fine grit sand paper (like very fine)?

I usually replace rotors when doing pads, so it's rare to reuse rotors. Maybe others have better ideas.
Old 11-13-2015, 05:38 AM
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Black Betty
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If you're using the exact same pads you don't need to worry about it. Bed them like you normally would. As was mentioned, if you want to you can scuff the rotors with steel wool or sandpaper if it makes you sleep better. Also, if you only have 30K miles on those pads you very likely don't need to change them unless you drive like a maniac. Changing pads long before they're used up does t help you at all. It's like putting on new tires when your current set still has 8/32 of tread left.
Old 11-13-2015, 08:52 AM
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JakeG37
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Ill probably wait a little while longer on the pads. The squeaking just bugs me. I am a lot better on brakes compared to how I used to be.
Old 11-13-2015, 04:49 PM
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slawek65
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Yes You can cut slotted rotors. I have done this once before ( cut and new pads ) with good results.
Old 11-13-2015, 04:58 PM
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4DRZ
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So you want to buy new brake pads due to squeaking? Usually, squeaking is caused by what is on the rotor surface or the pads vibrating when you brake. You can try the steel wool or sandpaper idea, but you will probably be better off just re-bedding your pads and then braking hard a number of times to clean up the surface of the rotor. Also try putting grease on the backing plates of the pads. Those two things have fixed every brake squeak I have ever had.
Old 11-13-2015, 05:50 PM
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JakeG37
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Well I wanted to just change the pads out while also addressing the real issue of the squeaking. I hate working on brakes so if I tear something apart I would rather just replace stuff while im doing it I will just hold off for now. As for turning the slotted rotors, what kind of lathe do I need to ask about for a shop to be able to do it? This is for future reference.
Old 11-14-2015, 01:26 AM
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JSolo
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Originally Posted by slawek65
Yes You can cut slotted rotors. I have done this once before ( cut and new pads ) with good results.

What's the tool used to cut such rotors?
Old 11-14-2015, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jsolo
What's the tool used to cut such rotors?
Here's some info, it seems the trick is decreasing the depth of the cut~
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Hfw2VA&cad=rja
Old 11-15-2015, 02:01 AM
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Interesting. I thought most shops didn't cut those for fear of damaging the lathe. Four thousandths of an inch isn't much. Barely a tenth of a mm, about the thickness of a human hair.

What's typical solid rotor cut depth rate?
Old 11-15-2015, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Jsolo
Interesting. I thought most shops didn't cut those for fear of damaging the lathe. Four thousandths of an inch isn't much. Barely a tenth of a mm, about the thickness of a human hair.

What's typical solid rotor cut depth rate?
I think .010 is the max depth and a 0.002 is the minimum used for a finish cut.
But
Old 06-03-2016, 09:02 PM
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Well I am about to get my brake pads and calipers swapped out in the next couple of weeks. Just ordered custom powder coated calipers from Conceptzperformance.com and they should be arriving soon. I went with the Hawk 5.0 pads I have heard so many good things about. I am still unsure of what to do with my slotted rotors however. The brake feel is very smooth right now but I dont like the peddle feel with my current pads. They seem a bit soft and I really have to pushed down on them if I have to stop fast. I generally am very easy on my brakes so its not been an issue of feeling unsafe, just softer than I like.

Since I will be using a different pad I wonder if I will need to worry about run-out on the rotors? I hope they would only need to scuff the surface so the new pads will bed in properly. If they do need to compensate for run-out, I need to find a shop with a OTW brake lathe thats knows how to do that. I am in SoCal area, just north of Lancaster/Palmdale. Havent been able to locate a shop yet with the right equipment and/or skill to do it if needed.
Old 06-04-2016, 11:17 AM
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4DRZ
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Originally Posted by JakeG37
Well I am about to get my brake pads and calipers swapped out in the next couple of weeks. Just ordered custom powder coated calipers from Conceptzperformance.com and they should be arriving soon. I went with the Hawk 5.0 pads I have heard so many good things about. I am still unsure of what to do with my slotted rotors however. The brake feel is very smooth right now but I dont like the peddle feel with my current pads. They seem a bit soft and I really have to pushed down on them if I have to stop fast. I generally am very easy on my brakes so its not been an issue of feeling unsafe, just softer than I like.

Since I will be using a different pad I wonder if I will need to worry about run-out on the rotors? I hope they would only need to scuff the surface so the new pads will bed in properly. If they do need to compensate for run-out, I need to find a shop with a OTW brake lathe thats knows how to do that. I am in SoCal area, just north of Lancaster/Palmdale. Havent been able to locate a shop yet with the right equipment and/or skill to do it if needed.
A soft brake pedal usually has nothing to do with the pads since they are all of similar hardness. A soft pedal is usually due to the brake fluid or the brake lines. When did you replace your brake fluid? Have you tried upgrading to stainless braided brake lines? Both things will help.

The only thing related to pedal feel I can think of for the brake pads would be if your old pads were really worn down and then you switch to new pads. That would not really change the feel, but how long the pedal travels before the brakes engage so new pads could help that feeling.


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