This WAS the vital piece to the puzzle^^^~
More than likely the coilover/camber kit installer either didn't read the instructions or just assumed the camber arm was OK as long as the ball joint was in it's cup and didn't think about the caster plate orientation.
It's been so long since I installed them I can't recall if they were already loosely assembled or all the parts were just in a bag
It would appear the right side caster was setup OK and the left was assembled w/ the caster plate already setup too negative.
Since the alignment guy didn't know the caster was adjustable he was right to assume damage to the suspension or body had occurred. Obviously they've never worked w/ SPC arms on Nissan/Infinitis or they didn't read the instructions either.
But this is good news OP
Also be sure your SPC stamp is showing like the pic on the right

 

blnewt you are always so thorough and helpful. Just want to clarify that positive caster is... FRONT / REAR. So it seems your driver strut is leaning more towards the rear, it will result you with more positive caster. And just wondering... if your car had offset frontal impact, shouldn't you get lesser caster like this l or even \ ?

Aside from the possible backward installation and assuming the A arms and coilovers are brand new, nothing to be bent and getting close to factory spec should not be an issue. If after rechecking everything and still have problem, then next thing to check would likely be your lower control arm. Also please note that if you got the rear toe kit, the bolt slot will need to be elongated for a wider range of adjustment.

 

Thanks blnewt !! i will show all these images to installer. i am pretty sure this will solve my issue completely.
I assumed he would know this as a professional, very cool guy like a friend to me and a lot of custom rides he worked on. may be this will be his another valuable learning experience lol.

Thanks! i do have spc rear camber kit installed along with spc bolts. i dont think there was any modification needed to install those. if it is still important, guide me from here. i will have that done this weekend. i hope i can get my rear cambers back to spec without any other modification

 

The rear toe bolts do require cutting into the slot that currently holds the bolts, the slots need to be elongated w/ a dremel tool to give the new bolts a wider range of adjustment.

Hopefully you're in the homestretch

 

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this is what i got done today.
1st issue: the dude said my car will go straight with these caster numbers, which it did, but i insisted that he fix this because i spent money on control arms i need perfect specs. he said if he go in specs my car will lean one way and wont drive straight. I said just make them in specs. He is going to fix it on monday.

2nd issue: i have spc rear toe bolt (what ever comes with the kit, i will double check which bolt is that) Allignment dude could not get my camber to specs because if he would go lower at those angles, my toe would start offsetting

I am pissed because 4th time I spent so much time at the shop and spending money I cant get my stuff fixed right. so frustrating.

 

these are the kind of bolts i have installed, i have no idea which is what...

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Go somewhere else.
The guy has no clue.

There are plenty of G37 members in South Florida that have gone to good alignment shops.

Maybe one will chime in.

 

is there a way i can tell if my toe bolts are Spc? i am 100% sure when they were installed, there were no modifications done to my car.

 

There is no advantage to using SPC bolts without expanding the slot in the frame so the bolts can work fully. That would have taken at least 20 minutes a side with a creme style grinder.

Im not sure those are SPC bolts in your picture. They should have ridges like an analog clock.

 

do the rear camber kit "comes" with these special bolts or i have to order then separately?
i never ordered them, i thought they came with the kit I purchased?

 

The rear camber kit does come w/ the rear toe bolts, like TV Post said the shop MUST elongate the slot for the new toe bolts to fully adjust. This sucks that you've had to go back time & again and they haven't gotten it right, I would either have them do any future work on a free ticket or ditch them and find a better shop. And here's the instructions for the toe bolt in case they still remain clueless
http://www.spcalignment.com/instruct...62-INS_WEB.pdf
FWIW I'm really pissed about this and it's not even my car, can't imagine how you feel

 

Thanks blnewt, i am going back to this shop on monday so he can fix my caster. both of my casters should have same number right? say 4.5 on both sides?
after that i will goto a shop which claims that they know how to elongate the toe bolt insert.
my issue right now is, the car shakes badly starting from 60mph, I think my wheels are still not balanced. i will have that fixed when he do my casters. i am optimistic that he will fix everything to specs except my rear cambers.
Also like you showed up top about the spc logo showing outward, even after caster adjustment, wil it still show outward?

 

Yes, the SPC logo needs to be outward, it's just the position of the ball joint that will change in its' mount. Just get the caster close and as balanced as possible from left to right, even if it's at 5, as long as it's close to 5 on the other side that will be fine.
G/L and hope your getting closer to finally enjoy your lowered G

 

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So after all the hardship, spending time and money, I got this sheet.
my camber in rear will be fixed later when i get my toe bolt slot elongated.

My issue here is, even if I have green front casters, He could not fix that 0.5 degree difference. my car still steers to right even with almost everything in green and 0.0 degree in steer ahead.

Is there something else that's causing that steer to the right or it is the caster?

(Still not happy with my car)

PS: the mechanic really really gave his 100% to me, he was literally working on my car till 10:00 pm. its just my luck this time around.

 

I'm no suspension/alignment expert but that spec sheet looks very good, the .5 difference in caster shouldn't have any significant effect in how the car tracks, but adding the .5 to the left so both are at 5.4 might cure what you're seeing. Are you sure the pulling to the right isn't the crown in the road, as most roads are peaked in the middle for drainage. If it was pulling left that would be a concern. Is the wheel tilted slightly right when driving straight?
Might shoot a PM to TVPostSound, he's the expert around here and may have some insight that could help.
Also are all your coilovers set up to identical height left to right?

Hopefully you haven't had to pay for an hourly rate through all these recorrections, this should have been handled the right way from the beginning.

I will say you're car (based upon the alignment sheets) is in a MUCH better place.