Nice find
Here's a pic in that thread that is gold~

 

THANK YOU so much guys! I guess I'll try to get a refund for the mid links. I'll call the shop tomorrow and have them put in the OEM one. It hasn't left the shop yet. I didn't want to take it out on the road like that. I wouldn't know what to do without you guys.


Does the front look like correct height?

 

Oh yeah another question. Do I need to upgrade the mid links at all? It should be able to handle the after market parts right?

 

The OEM lower control arms (aka spring bucket) are fine for the aftermarket coilovers, that's what most of us poor folk use Just get the preload properly set and you'll be good to go. You will need aftermarket toe bolts as I assume the SPL mid links have them included. SPC makes decent toe kits.
And yes, the front height looks fine although you can adjust to any height from higher than stock to slammed, so that's up to you.

 

To be honest I didn't know what a midlink was until I googled it lol. That said midlink is not necessary at all. Not sure the benefit of it anyways. There's no preload setting with the kw3 so basically bolt the oem spring bucket back and dial in the height. Hopefully the shop can make it right for you. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

I will definitely keep you guys posted. I guess I forgot to pick up some stronger toe bolts. Guess I'll get that and then have them put that in.

 

It's not that you need stronger toe bolts, it's the fact that you need more adjustable toe. That requires also elongating the slot on the plate where the bolt mates to your new camber arms.

 

Ok got it! I did order the toe bolts so hopefully that will come soon.


Here is the update!!

They put in the OEM bucket for the coilovers. It went it perfectly fine. They adjusted the height of the car to about 26.5". Took the car next door to get it aligned, while aligning it the SPL rear traction link on the passenger broke!!!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6m7kx2040e...%2012.jpg?dl=0

We put back the OEM parts back on. Contacted the place I order the parts and awaiting to hear back from them. This happened when they were hand tightening the parts to get it into specs.

The rear didn't jack it up all the way and it's just way too damn low. It was 27.50" in the front and 26" in the rear. I didn't feel like waiting around while the do minor adjustment instead of just cracking that **** all the way up to sorta gauge the minimum to maximum height. I told them let me just drive it around for a couple of days and bring it back after the settling and get the real adjustment. I want 27" all around so it's not so low. I drove about 3 or 4 miles home and when I got home, it felt so low getting out of the car. I was amazed. I looked at the gap and just from driving that short distance it dropped half an inch or more. The front was down to 26.75" and the rear was a 25.35"!! OMG! The gap between the wheel and the wheel liner was maybe .5" away! I'm not driving that anywhere but back to the shop so I can get them to adjust it. That's the update for right now. When I left the shop I didn't want to test out the suspension because the rear wasn't high enough for me. Hopefully it'll get done by Sunday night so I can really take this out and see how it goes!!

I'm awaiting for the toe bolts to get that installed hopefully by Wednesday or Thursday. I'll upload the alignment specs since I don't really know how to read it. All of them are green except for the rear. It's in the negative so hopefully the toe bolts will get it to specs.

As usual, thank you for everyone's input. Made me understand my car and the suspension better.

:biggthumpu pJAMINJAMIN:

 

Glad you're getting closer to that happy place
That's pretty bad (and surprising) about that broken traction arm, I wonder if it was under abnormal stress during that previous mismatched install
SPL parts are top quality so something must have been amiss along the way.

Keep your driving to a minimum until you get your toe bolts, having the toe out of spec will cause your tires to fight the road rather than rolling w/ it so your treadwear and control will be compromised, just be careful out there.

I'm at 26.25" all around and find that's perfect for daily driving, I was dropped a half inch lower on my springs (before going to coilovers) and that extra half inch drop added much more stress to our drives. I'd imagine your exhaust is in real jeopardy being that low in back. Look forward to pics when you get it set up just like you want. Good luck!

 

They finally adjusted my height, and after a long drive it seem to dropped a little bit. If it's true that it was 27" all around to begin with. I'm scheduled to go back on Tuesday to have my SPC Toe Bolts installed to help more with the alignment. I'm just doing very minimum drive, from and to work, and taking my son to school. Lucky I only have to do that for one more day before getting the toe bolts installed. I'm running anywhere from 26.25" to 26.75". Hopefully it'll settle more and I can finally get this straighten out! Blnewt, I don't know how you run it at 26.25". I honestly think it's a little to low. I went over a speed bump in the parking lot at the same speed, if not a little slower and my 4-point brace bottomed out. I just backed up into my drive way the same way I do every time, and my 4-point brace came in contact with the ground! I'm hoping that by Tuesday it'll settle more and then I'll have them jack it back up to 27" all around.

Here's my alignment results which was done by a shop next door to the shop that did my install. Once I get my toe bolts put in I'm taking it to Firestone to get it aligned again. https://www.dropbox.com/s/vc6n7wphlw...nment.jpg?dl=0 What do you guys think? I don't know how to read alignment, but I'm assuming that you want everything in the green.

 

Rear camber is way off. It's over 2 degrees on the left and over 4 on the right. They should be able to get it in the 1.5 range with no issues. Front specs look good.

 

Ok thanks. I'll keep you guys posted with my results after all this is done.

 

I'm assuming they just got the rear toe in spec at the expense of your camber, which is the spec you need in range so you won't kill your tires. So just be careful (and it sounds like you are).
Also the toe slots need to be elongated w/ a dremel tool, when you get the bolts they come w/ a template. You ONLY need to elongate the side of the slot that faces inward toward the rear differential housing, the other side of the slot is for even more negative camber which you won't need, so don't drill the outer side. Also if you do this yourself just cut it enough so the bolt turns freely but is still snug in the slot, you don't want any slop in there so just take your time and test the fit of the bolt as you go.
Brad

 

I'm having the same shop do it, but I'll definitely let them read this post so they know and not waste any extra time doing something they don't need to do. I'm hoping that two days and about 30 miles in enough for it to settle to try to get a true height adjustment for the coilovers. I can't do this 26.25" up front when my 4 point brace is going to bottom out every time I back into the garage. I feel like a ricer trying to ride the speed bumps one wheel at a time in the front. The rear is completely fine, just the front sits too low in my opinion. I'm also hoping that it won't take the show like 8 hours just to do ride height adjustment and toe bolts installation.

 

That's a crazy amount of camber in the rear. If you can get it to 27" all around then I'm willing to bet the toe kit won't be necessary. The brace is really killing your ground clearance. Good luck!