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Help Air inside brake lines

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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 01:21 AM
  #1  
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landslide03
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Air inside brake lines

This 30k service I am doing is not going well at all. I wanted to flush my brake lines with new brake fluid as I am almost at 30k. I have had a craftsman hand pump vaccum bleeder for about 10 years and it has always worked well. I started off by bleeding the pass rear brake per the fsm then I moved to the drivers front. After bleeding 1 cup of brake fluid I was going to do one more just to be on the safe side. I hooked up everything again like I always did and opened the bleeder screw I began pumping, I noticed that the fluid was not moving. I looked at the dial on the hand pump and say when ever i pumped it, the dial would jump then go back down to 0. This was very odd as when ever i would usually pump it would go up to a certain psi and slowly move down as it was sucking the fluid out. I took the cap off the pressured jar and was looking for a leak. I could not find one so i took off just the hand pump and to my surprise somehow it was broken.

When I pressed the trigger, instead of creating a vacuum it ended up blowing out pressured air. When I released the pump it would create a vacuum. So essentially it was pressuring and then vacuuming and essentially cancelling each other out. Somehow the valve in the pump got messed up. My problem is what can happen since i introduced pressurized air into the front drivers side brake line. Can I just re bleed it again or did it totally screw up my brake system?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by landslide03
This 30k service I am doing is not going well at all. I wanted to flush my brake lines with new brake fluid as I am almost at 30k. I have had a craftsman hand pump vaccum bleeder for about 10 years and it has always worked well. I started off by bleeding the pass rear brake per the fsm then I moved to the drivers front. After bleeding 1 cup of brake fluid I was going to do one more just to be on the safe side. I hooked up everything again like I always did and opened the bleeder screw I began pumping, I noticed that the fluid was not moving. I looked at the dial on the hand pump and say when ever i pumped it, the dial would jump then go back down to 0. This was very odd as when ever i would usually pump it would go up to a certain psi and slowly move down as it was sucking the fluid out. I took the cap off the pressured jar and was looking for a leak. I could not find one so i took off just the hand pump and to my surprise somehow it was broken.

When I pressed the trigger, instead of creating a vacuum it ended up blowing out pressured air. When I released the pump it would create a vacuum. So essentially it was pressuring and then vacuuming and essentially cancelling each other out. Somehow the valve in the pump got messed up. My problem is what can happen since i introduced pressurized air into the front drivers side brake line. Can I just re bleed it again or did it totally screw up my brake system?

Any help would be appreciated.
Keep going. You are doing great!

Originally Posted by landslide03
Lol my thoughts exactly! I would not ever go to a dealer for brakes, plus I know how to change them my rant was just going off on how they messed up my rotors. The main manager is not in there today. I was going to try to contact him tomorrow. I am just bummed my car is still up on jack stands and I hate having unfinished projects when I am just missing one piece!
I hope you don't need your vehicle to get to work today?

You will eventually learn as I did that it is cheaper and more efficient to have someone do this type of work that does it everyday and has all the correct tools and equipment.
Yes the dealer labor rates are higher than other independent shops but they have better training and all the right tools.
I've been a G owner almost nine years and had my brakes replaced and rotors turned once at 86k miles on my 06 G35
I had a loaner while the work was done and when I picked up my vehicle everything was perfect including the washing and vacuuming of my vehicle.
I guess i am lucky to have found a dealer that has a great well trained staff and I have purchased both my Infiniti's from them.
I've priced batteries and tires and found that their prices were only slightly higher so I would rather have them do the work than some poorly trained $10/hr a$$hole.
Dealers know who their good customers are and treat them accordingly.

Good luck and I hope you get your vehicle back on the road before winter.

Telcoman

Last edited by telcoman; Aug 25, 2014 at 02:37 AM.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 03:04 AM
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Telcoman I get it, you do not do anything yourself, you sound like a BMW owner with the "everything was perfect including the washing and vacuuming of my vehicle". This forum is for people who like to do things on their vehicles and go to others for help and exchange ideas and thoughts. I have done a lot of great things to my car so far with help from the guys on this forum. It seems like your only posts are "Take it to the dealer" for a solution. So lets get back on topic and see if anyone can help me.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 03:46 AM
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You're fine. Feel free to completely ignore anyone like Telcoman or others who aren't DIY types that advise you to take it to a dealership for things like this that you can do yourself. Sometimes you'll make mistakes or have trouble, but if you learn from them you'll gain experience and be a better all around shade tree mechanic. Plus some people simply don't enjoy working on their own cars or have drank the dealer provided KoolAid that tells them that only an Infiniti trained service technician knows how to properly service the car. Yes it does sound like a BMW or MB owner who take pride that their car has never been touched by any plebeian outside the hallowed halls of the dealership service department. Lol.

Inducing air into the line didn't harm anything. It just gives you more work to do. If you somehow managed to suck any brake fluid into it, it's possible that the brake fluid damaged the vacuum pump. Or maybe it just happened to brake. Using pressure instead of vacuum tends to work better. A $65 investment into a Power Bleeder will make the job much easier. And it'll be easier to make sure you got all the air out if that line. Also be sure to bleed both outer and inner nipples.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 08:24 PM
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landslide03
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Black Betty, thanks again for the tip, I went to harbor freight and with my coupon I got a Pneumatic brake bleeder system for $25. I just had to put a little grease on the bleeder screw to not give me any false air bubbles. It was so nice just pulling the trigger and going through and entire bottle or brake fluid on each caliper just to be safe. For anyone who is interested in this tool here is the link!

Brake Fluid Bleeder
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by landslide03
Black Betty, thanks again for the tip, I went to harbor freight and with my coupon I got a Pneumatic brake bleeder system for $25. I just had to put a little grease on the bleeder screw to not give me any false air bubbles. It was so nice just pulling the trigger and going through and entire bottle or brake fluid on each caliper just to be safe. For anyone who is interested in this tool here is the link!

Brake Fluid Bleeder
I have that bleeder, it works OK, but I have a pretty lame compressor so that's more of the problem. I do like the Master cylinder bottle that gravity fills the MC, I just use that and then go old school w/ a helper. Still only takes under 30 minutes. Main thing is keeping your MC full throughout the process so you won't have to bench bleed the damn thing
Sry to hear of all your issues lately. Hopefully you're getting all the bad mojo out at once and it'll be blue skies ahead
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