I have a 2008 6MT and over the past few months I have had to take my car in to get my rotors fixed twice. The first time they warped, I had to pay (~400) and then then second time they fixed them for free. Well, it's happening again and I am not quite sure what to do.

They told me it was from the brakes getting hot, and then water splashing on them. I don't drive spirited at all in the rain, and if this is the case, then anyone with a G37 that drove in the rain would experience this problem.

My solution? Kill two birds with one stone. Replace the rotors all the way around, and go ahead and get some performance ones while I'm at it.

I've heard amazing things about DBA rotors. Could anyone link me to the correct ones? Would this prevent the warping problem?

Thanks!

 

If you're still on OEM pads, change the pads next time you swap out the rotors.

Often times, especially on Nissan's, the vibration is caused by uneven pad deposits and not necessarily the rotor physically warping.

 

I changed the pads last time I did the rotors. I'm assuming I should buy different pads if I get DBA rotors.

 

Two things to consider:
-research "bedding in brake pads"
-ensure a torque wrench is used when putting on the wheels and tightening the lug nuts.

99+% of brakes are not bedded in properly.
And most shops use an air gun or impact wrench to reinstall tires.

 

I gave up on OEM brake components so I upgraded to HPS Pads, DBA Rotors & Stoptech SS Lines. No complaints so far *knock on wood*

 

This is what I was looking for! (; stock Akebono calipers? Which DBA rotors?

My local Infiniti deeds hop is doing the work. They are trustworthy guys, and know what they're doing. I'm sure whatever bedding in brake pads is, they have taken care of. I will ask them, however. And they always use a torque wrench to put on the wheels.

 

Bedding the pads is something you should do so you know it's been done right. Just have them do the install, then you take it out to a vacant road and do the bedding process. Just look up bedding brake pads on search for a good procedure.

 

If you swapped them out for OEM pads, the problem is still there.

Try aftermarket pads when you change the rotors.

 

toss the stock rotors and pads into the nearest bin.
upgraded to the racing brake 2 piece f+r rotors and racing brake pads with their SS lines and motul rbf600 fluid. now my car goes into limp mode way before the brakes fade

 

when you change rotors, make sure to change the pads at the same time. Using old pads on new rotors will likely warp them because they have the old rotor pattern in them.

 

On my 08 G37S

Brake vibrations after 5K miles

1. Changed brake pads to Hawk Ceramic
2. Same vibrations returned after 3 months
3. Replaced OEM brake lines to Goodridge SS lines
4. Nothing happened
5. Replaced OEM rotors to Stoptech Drilled/Slotted, and Brand New Pads
6. Still vibrations after 5 months.
7. Replaced Caliper from OEM to brand new OEM same caliper but new.

No more vibrations for 20K + Miles

I found out that the original caliper had sticky pistons. Picture shown below of the defective piston. Right side piston goes in when some amount of pressure is added. Left side piston will not go back in even if I hammered.

In my case the upper piston got stuck did not apply enough pressure. Resulted in uneven pad wear. Vibrations returning when the pads got uneven 3-5 months.

Rear pistons are fine because they are two piston instead of 4 piston like the front ones.

Just get rid of the front OEM caliper, Pads, and rotors all at once. So you don't waist more money.

 

^^Got some more pics of the disassembled OE caliper? thanks!

 

is not pretty though

 

Thanks!

Is it safe to say then that the two halves are independent of on another as far as fluid flow goes. I know there's an external cross over line, but from the pics, doesn't seem like they are linked internally at all, unlike the real brembo's.

 

So joo you replaced the entire caliper rather than just replacing the pistons and a caliper rebuild? I guess I'm just cheap but that seems like a colossal waste of money.

OP if it were me I'd resurface the OEM rotors first. If that doesn't solve it I'd replace pads and rebuild the calipers. Only if those easy and cheap (and most likely the correct measures) solutions didn't work would I spend big money on different rotors or calipers.