Rochester

iTrader: (9)

With respect to choosing a Powder Coater... I think I'm going with the second shop that I visited on Thursday. They use a laser to clean the parts, and their quote was the lowest. Although the visit was initially awkward, we got beyond that and I came away feeling confident. The other guys end cost would probably be less than they originally quoted, after eliminating the requirement for a primer base coat, and no longer making the decal part of their work. But still... the quotes are quite different. In big round numbers:

$400 with laser blasting
$600 with vapor blasting
$800 with chemical bath and bead blast

If progress on my end continues through the weekend, I could potentially be dropping the parts off sometime next week.

Still a ways to go however, even when they're returned. I need to rebuild the calipers, which means I probably need a rebuild kit of new seals and rings. I suspect I'll need new bleeder valves... 4 at a minimum, or maybe all 8. Then I need to apply decals and put another layer of rattle-can caliper clear coat. And lastly I'll be taking the calipers and SS brake lines to the shop for install and swap.

Boy this project is filling my head, which is exactly what I wanted.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

The front decals from ebay are fine, and should work OK.

The rears however... they're easily 2x the size they should be. I can't use them.

Seriously, how difficult is it to get this right?

Knightjs

iTrader: (1)

https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-...al_p_27601.php
They have your rebuild kits as well. OEM

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Thanks, @Knightjs . Decals are a low priority but on the list nonetheless. Getting the wrong size decals is 100% on me for not figuring that out when I ordered them. Granted, the eBay page misrepresented their applicability to Akebono calipers, but still it was me who didn't catch that, so I have to own it.

As for rebuild kits... you know what? After cleaning the gaskets from Mike's donor set, they're actually in fine shape. No nicks, tears or damage. Very supple and usable. So I'm going to reuse them. Same evaluation on the valve stems. They cleaned up just fine, and the bleeder passage is clear, so they're good to be reused.

Looking at Z1 Motorsport pricing...

Saving $24 by not buying new pins and spring plates on all four corners.
Saving $90 by not buying 8 new new bleeder valves.
Saving $44 by not buying new gaskets and rings front and back.

Little costs, but that adds up to $158 plus $10 shipping. I mean, sure it's easier to just buy them new and be done with it. But if I don't have to?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Looking for confirmation, please, from anyone who's rebuilt these brakes before.

After figuring out how to pop *both* pistons from the front calipers, I came to realize that in the front calipers, the pistons are not the same diameter. One is smaller than the other. Because of that, the little inner gasket comes in two different diameters (obviously). And the retention rings are identical to one another because they're simple open ended rings.

My question is: are the top dust boots identical in each piston hole? Because they sure look the same to me. Is that right?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I've been thinking that picking the first metallic orange that I liked is a bit of a rush, and maybe I should look at more options. So I created an account at the Prismatic Powders website, and ordered 17 "free" swatches in various orange, yellow, gold hues. There are literally hundreds to choose from. I picked out 17. Figure that was good enough variation. Don't want a dark color, don't want red or blue or green. That leaves me in one distinct area on the color wheel, which is yellow to orange to gold.

Epiphany

I think you should go a little bit gold leaning, but realistically you'll enjoy whatever you pick.

BULL

Oh boy my biggest fear, 17 great options

In this predicament I like to match towards the color of the car or similar other parts.

Being that you have an actual BLANK canvas doesnt help at all.

I still say you should try to match it to the engine cover, this way it has a second thing to match to and to then not let you spend another $100+ when you select the color you want for powder but it doesnt match and you cant find the equivalent match in regular paint.

Kind of like matching shoes to the belt mentality. I've switched apparel before if my tan/leather belt doesnt match the shoes

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

John, the best way to pop the pistons out is to put a wood block where the rotor goes that's just thick enough that the piston can pop past the seal a little, but just. Then the other side will pop too. With RX7 calipers (smaller, but also 4-piston) that was a 1x4.

Re: differential piston sizes - that's why I rebuild them if they're off the car for any kind of serious brake repair. The seals may *look* fine but you don't know if they're physically degraded - they have to hold a few hundred PSI at the piston back end. AT THE LEAST I would replace the dust boots - they always degrade due to environment.

Re: shop... as long as the shop runs them through an industrial degreaser before coating, it shouldn't matter. Powder is powder and it is applies via static electricity, and baked at 450-500. That's all of them, and the process is super simple if the parts are free from contamination.

FWIW, the shop I've always used to do wheels and other things is just like you mentioned - they do truck frames and honda zero-turn decks, so little stuff is essentially advertising. They did good work. I even had them coat an aluminum trivet I made long ago to make it food safe.

AS for color - you do you boo

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Hi Mike.

I've got one more front caliper to remove the second piston from each half. Did the other last night, with a block of wood over a piston fitted with a rubber glove. Took a little effort with the compressor, but they finally popped.

How many miles were on those calipers, Mike? Once they're cleaned up, the seals and dust boots really do seem 100%. Feels gratuitous to replace with new seals & boots, but I'm no engineer. Err-r-r-r.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

Assuming they were original to the car, about 65k. They were rattle-canned black when I got the car (OEM silver powder/paint under it) so while I’m *pretty* sure they were the original set, I can’t prove it definitively.

if you’re castigating yourself about cost - Z1 makes conversion brackets to use the GT-R 6-piston behemoths on our cars. Just - $1800 for a pair of used fronts.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Finally blew out the remaining pistons today. At this point all four calipers are completely broken down.

Pretty filthy Next up is to thoroughly clean everything, and organize all the parts.

And then just wait for the color samples. I had a moment where I was thinking about teal, or turquoise. But I'm over it now, LOL.

Epiphany

What would it cost you for parts to do a proper rebuild with all new seals? I'd lean towards if you're doing this then go all the way. Save a few hundred and use the industrial shop and do the full rebuild. For what it's worth the shop I'd use is a large industrial one that does 40ft truck frames, and do small stuff like this for the same reasons. Definitely no bright colours like turquoise or teal, dang.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Rebuild kits from Z1, for both fronts and both rears, would be $46 all in, plus shipping. That's seals, dust boots, and retention rings, including the little gasket in the middle of the caliper halves.

Within the scope of this project, that's an irrelevant amount, I get that. However the original parts are entirely undamaged, and will reinstall just fine when cleaned up and lubed. Same for the spring plate, and pins... the cost is irrelevant, but seems unnecessary when cleaned up.



The powder coat samples I ordered will be here Thursday. I'll post pics of the swatches as I go through the selection process. Yeah, no turquoise, LOL.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

Peace of mind.