Just installed front upper control arms, adjustable. What is a good setting for camber, my front tires before were lasting a year....maybe. I have it set at -8 degrees right now.
Thanks in advance.
Mad Matt

 

Currently at -8, or did you mean -.8?
Will need more info to give a proper camber rec. but if you just want good tire wear, set it between 0 and -.6 deg.

 

Sorry, yeah neg .8, I guess I'll shoot for about zero.
Thanks for the info!

 

-.8 is well within spec. You should not be eating tires with that amount of camber. Hell plenty of people run -2+ with minimal to no inside tire wear.

I haven’t put enough miles on this car myself to confirm(or even on the same wheels/tires lol) but on past cars with double wishbone suspension I’ve ran -2+ with no noticeable inside tire wear.

Don’t zero your static camber. It will ruin the handling of the car. Leave it at -.8 and get your total toe set to 0. If that doesn’t take care of your tire wear you’ve got other issues going on.

Start by checking all the basics from properly balanced tires, upper/lower control arm bushing, ball joints, and tie rod ends.

If all that checks out confirm that the car hasn’t been in an accident, could be a bend control arm or sub frame.

What other suspension mods do you have? That might help with diag.

 

Sounds like you were having bad tire wear prior to the FUCA install, and now with the new arms you are at -.8, correct? If so leave the camber there and zero the toe. That should be the end of it.

 

Zero the toe? Okay, I started running Achilles sport ATRs cause I wasn't gonna spend good money on tires. The Atrs only get about a year, maybe at about 9k miles at most and inside worn down. Front end is fine, ball joints, tie rod ends no other problem. Just when I upgraded to staggered wheels and I can't rotate that I have this problem.......

 

Yeah zero toe. Toe kills tires.

Do you know what your alignment specs were prior?

 

Last alignment I did everything was spot on, but of course factory specs call for a lot of negative camber. Not sure of camber, think it was close to neg 1.0. No other suspension mods, no accidents, have the are over 10 years....

 

On rwd cars you should run some positive toe, zero toe is fine on a fwd car as when you accelerate it will toe in, but on a rwd car the opposite happens. Whoever is doing the alignment should know this, and set the car to proper specs…do you have an old printout?

 

That’s correct for rear toe on RWD cars. A little static toe in(positive toe) helps to stabilize the car under power. I run .1 each side and it works well on the street and on the track.

I should’ve specified zero toe for the front. Even a little toe out(negative toe) will help with turn in but I didnt think handling was the OP objective, just tire life.

Agreed though a look at your old/current alignment sheet/specs would be helpful.