Howdy. I will be replacing the front inner and outer tie rods on my G37 this weekend. My questions are:
1. What tools do I need to remove the inner tie rods?
2. How much torque do I need to apply on the new inner tie rods to tighten them?

Thanks in advance.

 

Hope this helps:
STEERING SYSTEM

g/l

 

make sure you loosen the jam nut first because you wont be able to once the rod end if unbolted off the hub
take a little while to get the cotter pin out cuz its rusted
put a jack directly under the rod end to put some pressure on it so it wont spin when you take the rod end nut off
you might need to hammer the rod end out but be careful not to damage the threads.
you dont need to tighten the rod end nut too tight
you wont need an alignment because you kept the old jam nut on

 

For the outer tie rods you don't need any specialized tools just a large open ended wrench (22mm IIRC), 17mm socket (IIRC) to remove the castle nut, a pair of needle nose pliars (for the cotter pin), and a hammer to knock the tie rod out. You may also need a cheater bar or pipe to get the leverage you need on the jam nut ( On the G I use a second wrench as a cheater cause of clearance issues if you're working on jack stands)

For the inner tie rods you need needle nose pliars to remove the wire on the bellows and (and some replacement safety wire if it breaks), you will also need an inner tie rod tool like this(some people do it with a pipe wrench on some cars, but on the G there isnt enough clearance), : https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pc-Inner-...-/331503490500


Auto parts stores with a loan-a-tool- program always have the inner tie rod remover as part of the selection and its easy to get one for free for a few days sicne you will probably never use it agian unless you have a few cars or like to collect tools


I would not recommend using this style: the last time I boughtr and tired to use one of these the thin metal at the end just twisted open and i had to return it


you will also need a breaker bar and maybe a cheater bar to get the leverage to get it off (I use a jack handle over a 24" long 1/2" breaker bar)


One tip when changing both inner and outer tie rods together, measure the distance from a fixed point on the rack to the castle nut on the LCA so when you put the new outer tie rod on you can match the lengths. this should get you close enough to be able to drive the car to get it properly aligned. I always recommend getting a professional alignment after changing tie rods as home alignments are not as precise and if you are changing the tie rods because they are worn you probably need an alignment at that point anyways.

 

Just get this for the outer. https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-ro...ler-63684.html. And the G, at least the rwd, does have plenty of room for a pipe wrench.